Alright, sweet. My phone has disappeared somewhere into the abyss that is my coupe full of boiler suits, tools, jackets, fast food garbage, and EJ25 that are in the back of my car. Anyway though, I'll give a basic rundown of my experience in the mean time.
So, in mid december, My friend Vince acquired a 1991 Loyale Wagon which had been rearended. We took it's motor (90,000ish Miles) and put it into my car which had cracked heads and ran 3 cylinders and had 272,000ish miles at the time. We also took it's push button 4WD trans out. My car entered this horrid little tarp garage thing where Vince's soob was earlier when we put an EA81 in it. (It's a 1987 Hatch, like that older gen not a liftback like mine which is also an '87). We took the engine out with the trans on it which was among the easiest motors I've ever pulled. We put in the push button trans, and then put the motor in which was also easy and straight forward and I won't explain how to do that here. That can have it's own section somewhere if anyone wants to learn about soobie motor transplants.
Anyway, the motor and tranny were super straight forward. I made a mount for the carrier bearing, which is a bearing that is part of the 1st halfshaft leaving the transmission, and that mount was actually a crossmember that a transmission mounts to, I think we took it from a 1982 wagon that he parted out for the motor. I just drilled two holes that the carrier bearing can connect to, attached it with appropriately sized bolts, and drilled into my floor pan and used more nuts and bolts to attach it with the holes it already had. Later on, I sourced a rearend from a 1993 loyale that had the same 3.9 gear ratio my trans does, and let it since on Vince's front lawn for about 4 months. (With the halfshaft in it's drivable though still FWD) So, anyway, later on in doing this you'll gain free time and inspiration and finish the 4WD conversion with your friend Adam, who will break one of your brake lines. (Somewhat ironic I guess) and you'll have to go to pull n save and get a new one. Then, you'll finish dropping the rear end which is just bolt removal, and if you understand a wrench, you understand bolt removal until a part comes out. Now comes the part where I share with you the wizardry involved in stalling a the new rear end. So, on your DL, you will find 2 indentations in the frame where the mustache bar goes. (The mounting bar for the rear diff that looks like a mustache). And if you're retarded like I am you'll not know that there are two mounts that go there and drop your rear end for nothing and give up for 4 months. Anyway, you'll need to drill those out, I used a 7/16's drill bit and a 7/16's tap with a pitch of 14. Oddly, if you buy 7/16's bolts with a pitch of 14, they will not fit and your eyes will explode out of your skull from rage and your brain will lose all understanding and lobotomize itself and sort of drip out of your nose. In desperation, you will begin trying to stuff random bolts into this hole and suddenly discover that the largest bolt you removed from the rear end to drop it, it's the fattest one, and there's two, and it's about 6 inches long, you'll find that it fits perfectly. Nice and snug. You'll also understand that you need that bolt to put your car back together and that you can't use it. In your hunt you'll notice 6 bolts, of which you need 4, that are attached to the trailing arms on your FWD rear end, you'll take 2 from each side, they're 2 inches long or so, and that those parts were the only ones not made entirely of rust. They'll work great. Then you'll lay the rear end on a jack so where the jack lifts is on the point where the rear diff connects to the rear end itself, and begin to lift, first attaching the mustache bar to the mounts that you just added. Then the other end that is actually the rear end will meet up with the car and you'll keep attaching bolts until you've attached all the bolts. Then you just place the half shaft in there, and there's some play in the portion connecting the transmission to the yoke, so, don't worry about exact measurements there. Put in the 8 bolts for that, and then love the spoob out of your Subaru and try to find a way to explain to your girlfriend that at this point you probably love it more than she loves her children. Also, bleed your brakes because they won't work until you do this. It's really shitty to try to drive across Spokane with no brakes to go home where your brake line and the fluid is. On Maple street bridge, even though your haz lights are on and you're going 8MPH because even at that speed it takes like 5 car lengths to stop with your e-brake, you'll be cut off by a city bus and then brake checked by it, you'll fail the brake check, and take your chances swerving into the empty oncoming lane. You will then wish to beat this bus driver to death but be unable. You will grumble about it for the rest of the day, but, be unable to forget your excitement in having 4WD and inevitably piss off your neighbors by bashing the car around in alley ways and gravel lots at 11 at night. I also forgot to mention, the exhaust system in my FWD did not fit after making it 4WD. I had a Y pipe for a subaru laying around so my car just has a Y pipe now and it's loud and my neighbors probably hate it but I do not care because codswallop them my car is 4WD now. You'll feel the same way, trust this.
Edit: Oh yea, the DL does NOT have the wiring for the push button 4WD to actually work, there's a lever about 10 inches behind the trans dip stick that changes it from FWD to 4WD. That's important to know. And the carpet is different between FWD and 4WD, the gear stick moves forward about 2 inches so your shift boot will never fit right again until you get a new carpet which is the same between coupes, wagons, and sedans. Um, what else. Also buy tires. You'll need them if you want to drive it like I do. I'll add more and add photos of the build later and be all detailed with the photos so you know what's happening. This should be fine for now, right?
Edited by Bekokatt, 10 May 2014 - 02:54 AM.