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Hey guys, I'm back with another small problem on my 95 Subaru Legacy. Lol. The other day I was warming my car up in the morning and I turned the fans on full Blast and nothing happened. I said "Wtf..." turned em off back on and off again still nothing. I could hear a clicking (relay or something?) behind the steering wheel clicking somewhere every time I turned the switch but other than that. Nothing. Then after a little bit they finally kicked on when I turned the switch and operated normally. Normal amount of heat and power too. Really weird. It's done it a couple times since and they always eventually work but it's got me worried.

Is there a relay or something going bad that can cause this to happen? Maybe one of you guys has had experience with this before?

This car does have some weird electrical bugs going on. Every once in a while it will blow dash light fuses even though I've removed my aftermarket cd player and made sure he illumination wire wasn't grounding on anything. Also, the door locks will cycle randomly at random times when the car is running. Sometimes when I turn it off I'll have to cycle the drivers door lock several times to get them all to lock.

Anyways, none of that really concerns me like the heater problem does. I gotta have my heater. Maybe somebody can take a stab at why it's doing this? I would rather not go to an auto electrical shop and have it diagnosed.

Once again, thanks for all your help in advance!

Edited by nicholi2789
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There is a resistor pack in the Heater Duct to the left of the fan behind the glove box.  It goes bad sometimes and you will loose a fan speed or two.  It's easy to change.  Plug and two screws.  If you jump the plug the fan will be on high speed.

 

Take a close look at the fuse box and under dash wiring.  Sounds like the PO may have tapped into the wiring.  Put it back to stock if you can.  If it's got an aftermarket security system get rid of it.

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fan motor

relay

resistor pack  (high usually works when these fail)

controller (these do not fail terribly often, at least not like you're describing partiularly)

 

door lock timers do that when they fail - you can replace the timer.  it's behind the dash on the passengers side and annoying to get too. i have one freaking out on a 1996 and partially disassembled the dash, tried multiple times and never got to it.

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fan motor

relay

resistor pack (high usually works when these fail)

controller (these do not fail terribly often, at least not like you're describing partiularly)

 

door lock timers do that when they fail - you can replace the timer. it's behind the dash on the passengers side and annoying to get too. i have one freaking out on a 1996 and partially disassembled the dash, tried multiple times and never got to it.

Thank you. Yeah I've been reading up on this problem and it seems like it's fairly common. From everything I've read, I don't think it's the resistor, because when it quits it doesn't work at all on any setting. I'm hoping that it's the relay. It's working right now, but next time it does it I will pull off the bottom dash cover and smack the relay and see if that works. Failing that, I'll get some some test lights and test the motor for current when it's not working. I'm really hoping it's not the motor. It doesn't look like much fun to replace.

Is there a burning else it could be? What about the climate control panel? The buttons on it are really sticky and it's hard to change the vent nodes. Though the actual fan switch turns just fine.

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And one last thing, how hard is it to access behind that climate control panel? Can it be accessed by removing my stereo and continuing that way? I hope so because I'm a pro at removing my stereo now. Is the climate control easily replaced too? As in not extremely expensive and easy to find and swap out.

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And one last thing, how hard is it to access behind that climate control panel? Can it be accessed by removing my stereo and continuing that way? I hope so because I'm a pro at removing my stereo now. Is the climate control easily replaced too? As in not extremely expensive and easy to find and swap out.

The climate control panel is not too difficult to swap out. I have done it a couple of times, because the control push buttons would no longer work. Start by removing the cup holder, then remove the trim cover over the control panel. With the cup holder removed, there is enough room to reach your hand in to work on the control panel. I think it is either 2 or 4 screws to loosen it from it's housing. Place a rag or something under the screws to catch them upon removal, or otherwise, the screws can drop down, and be hard to retrieve.The most difficult part is swapping out the temp cable. It is just awkward to get at to work with, but with some patience it can be done. There are two wiring connectors, that need to be separated to remove the control panel. I don't remember removing the radio. I sourced both replacement control panels from wrecking yards. Both work well, but have some light bulbs burned out, so I just live with that.

 

From your problem description, I doubt the control panel is the source of your problem. Sounds like you have an electrical problem getting the fan to operate. The switch on the climate control operates the fan, but that switch seldom breaks, so don't count on a replacement climate control panel to fix your problem.

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If you suspect the fan motor, I'd remove the glovebox to get to the fan motor connector.  Test for voltage on there.  If there's voltage, chances are the motor brushes are worn.  This happened on my impreza, the fan would intermittently work.  Once it started spinning it's good until shut down.  I eventually swapped in another blower unit and things were back to normal.

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Alright. Thanks alot guys. I was thinking about replacing the climate control unit also because the buttons on it are funky and barely work anyways. How did one of those cost you guys roughly?

And as far as the fan motor goes, the more I read about this the more I suspect it's the motor. I did open the blower motor box and pull it out partially to make sure it wasn't clogged but that was it.

I'm waiting for it to quit again before I can beat on it to seen if it makes it work. Lol.

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 Place a rag or something under the screws to catch them upon removal, or otherwise, the screws can drop down, and be hard to retrieve.The most difficult part is swapping out the temp cable. It is just awkward to get at to work with, but with some patience it can be done. There are two wiring connectors, that need to be separated to remove the control panel. I don't remember removing the radio. I sourced both replacement control panels from wrecking yards. Both work well, but have some light bulbs burned out, so I just live with that.

 

+1 to the rag.  I've lost a few screws into the abyss behind the radio.  I didn't even try to find them.

 

It is way, way easier to undo the temperature cable below the glove box rather than at the back of the control unit.  One side will take you 15 seconds for removal and reinstall, the other will take you 100x that if you are lucky.

 

You should be able to pick up a temp control unit at a salvage yard.  The yard near me only charges $15 for that type (more for the digital controls).  If the price is anything close to that I would pick up two if you can and you'll be set.

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So last night I found out that my blower motor is almost for sure the culprit. It quit working again and I reached down and smacked it with a screwdriver handle and it immediately started working again. So obviously it's the blower.

Today I drove to the valley (about 2 hours) and stopped by a pick a part. I went out into the yard and found a 96 Legacy Wagon with the blower motor still in it and intact. I of course pulled it.

I also found a climate control panel, new cup holder assembly and new pieces of facing (where the hazard button is)and the other piece that goes around the Radio. Some A-hole busted all the plastic around under the radio when they installed it. I also got a new oil cap. The guy originally wanted 80$ for all of it. I haggled him down to 40$. I made sure the blower motor worked (he plugged it into a little battery). I also made sure to keep the screws around the climate control panel and cup holder and got a ton of extra screws for all that dash stuff so If I lose any I got extras.

So the only thing I'm worried about. The car these came out of is a 96, mine is a 95. The parts are identical to mine but I was afraid for some reason they wouldn't work. Can any of you guys tell me?

40$ for all this stuff I feel like is a good haul.post-53402-0-16772200-1425519806_thumb.jpg

Edited by nicholi2789
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Yeah it's all the same stuff. The bulbs in the control head burn out al the time so plug that in and check to make sure it works and it all lights up before you get it totally installed.

Ah good advice. I suppose I could always mix and match the bulbs out of the two cause I'm pretty sure all the bulbs work on my current ones. The buttons are just funky.

Question about these climate control panels.

On my current one, the buttons are sticky and when I press then it doesn't change the vent settings. Like right now it's stuck on bi-level vents and no matter what button I press that's where it stays mostly.

So are the vents controlled electronically? As in will replacing this panel fix my weird vent setting issue? I'm assuming the buttons are just broke and replacing the panel will fix it.

Any insight on this?

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Yeah it's all the same stuff. The bulbs in the control head burn out al the time so plug that in and check to make sure it works and it all lights up before you get it totally installed.

Ah good advice. I suppose I could always mix and match the bulbs out of the two cause I'm pretty sure all the bulbs work on my current ones. The buttons are just funky.

Question about these climate control panels.

On my current one, the buttons are sticky and when I press then it doesn't change the vent settings. Like right now it's stuck on bi-level vents and no matter what button I press that's where it stays mostly.

So are the vents controlled electronically? As in will replacing this panel fix my weird vent setting issue? I'm assuming the buttons are just broke and replacing the panel will fix it.

Any insight on this?

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Ah good advice. I suppose I could always mix and match the bulbs out of the two cause I'm pretty sure all the bulbs work on my current ones. The buttons are just funky.

Question about these climate control panels.

On my current one, the buttons are sticky and when I press then it doesn't change the vent settings. Like right now it's stuck on bi-level vents and no matter what button I press that's where it stays mostly.

So are the vents controlled electronically? As in will replacing this panel fix my weird vent setting issue? I'm assuming the buttons are just broke and replacing the panel will fix it.

Any insight on this?

Spray Windex, and wipe dry with paper towels. Keep pushing the buttons, and keep spraying with Windex to free up the climate control buttons. Usually, the buttons get gummed up with soft drink spills from the cup holder just above the climate controller. Not one of Subaru's best ideas of putting the cup holder just above the climate controller.

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Spray Windex, and wipe dry with paper towels. Keep pushing the buttons, and keep spraying with Windex to free up the climate control buttons. Usually, the buttons get gummed up with soft drink spills from the cup holder just above the climate controller. Not one of Subaru's best ideas of putting the cup holder just above the climate controller.

Thanks for the advice. I've already done that very thoroughly and it didn't make a Damn bit of difference in how the buttons work. I've tried everything aside from ripping the Damn thing and and taking it apart to clean it. But it's cool I got a new one in better shape to install now.

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Thanks for the advice. I've already done that very thoroughly and it didn't make a Damn bit of difference in how the buttons work. I've tried everything aside from ripping the Damn thing and and taking it apart to clean it. But it's cool I got a new one in better shape to install now.

Agree, I reached that point in the past too, where Windex cleaning no longer fixed the button problem. Time to swap in the replacement climate control unit that you just bought.

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Hey quick question for anyone who can answer:

Has anyone ever heard of putting a hole in an oil fill cap to relieve pressure? When I bought this car I noticed this. It has a 3/4 inch hole drilled into the cap with a little plastic tube coming out into an empty quart jug. I asked the guy about it when I bought car and he mumbled something about relieving oil pressure. Didn't make sense to me. I never replaced it because I didn't have another car to replace it with and didn't see what harm it would do. But yesterday I got a replacement fill cap at pick a part.

Can anyone see any reason why this weird cap setupwas there? Or any harm in replacing it?

I can see what that could be but just wanted to see if anyone saw something I didn't. Lol.

post-53402-0-71452700-1425612515_thumb.jpg

Edited by nicholi2789
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Sounds like some ghetto spoob to cover up a bad PCV valve or clogged breather tubes.

The oil cap has nothing to do with oil pressure, but drilling a hole in it will affect crankcase pressure, and will have a direct affect on airflow through the block, which will affect the PCV system. If the PCV system doesn't work properly you'll possibly have issues with oil consumption.

 

Either way. Check the breather hoses from the valve covers to the intake tube, make sure they're clear. And make sure the PCV valve is clean and the hoses from it to the block are clean. Then put the new oil cap on.

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Sounds like some ghetto spoob to cover up a bad PCV valve or clogged breather tubes.

The oil cap has nothing to do with oil pressure, but drilling a hole in it will affect crankcase pressure, and will have a direct affect on airflow through the block, which will affect the PCV system. If the PCV system doesn't work properly you'll possibly have issues with oil consumption.

 

Either way. Check the breather hoses from the valve covers to the intake tube, make sure they're clear. And make sure the PCV valve is clean and the hoses from it to the block are clean. Then put the new oil cap on.

Yah I've thought about that and crankcase pressure,but I have replaced the pcv valve Less than 10k ago. My car uses less than a quart of oil over 3000 miles. Truly. I know it's some kind of miracle with 270k miles on it. Makes me wonder if it was rebuilt or something. Anyways, I'll check the hoses then swap the caps out. If I notice more oil consumption then I'll dig further. The old pcv valve was pretty dang dirty before I swapped it. Anyways, thanks for the info.
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