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drilling hubs and wheel/tire sizing


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Hey guys! I'm new here. But I've been reading up a lot here lately since I recently grabbed a 1992 Loyale for a good price. All of the tires are out of round and I'd really like some better options than the 13" stock wheels allow. I also don't want to have to lift it.

 

So, I've already got some 14x6" wheels from an old b series mazda. I'm thinking the tire size should be around 185/75r14. Initially I was looking at a bfg tire 195/75r14 all terrain t/o ak, but was worried they'd rub against my suspension...

 

I can rent a drill press and angle grinder by donation from a local tool library.

 

Some of my questions:

 

Is there anything else I should know about before removing the hubs? i.e. rotors... drum brakes.. 

 

How can I recalibrate the odometer and speedometer?

 

Is this going to compromise the structural integrity of the hubs? Will I be totally safe, even off road?

 

Does anyone have a good idea of if the 195/75r14 would fit in the wells?

 

Any input and/or direction is so greatly appreciated!

Edited by lostalfos
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Drill the rims not the hubs.

 

My $.02

 

I have heard of this option. Why do you suggest that? I figure the hubs are stronger so drilling the hubs would leave you with more integrity. Where as the rims, being thinner, would take more of an impact with extra holes.....

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The 195/75/14 tire = 25-1/2" diameter. My unlifted '88 Wagon is running 195/65/15's that are just under 25" diameter. They fill the wheel well but don't rub any.

Yours are narrower than mine, so you should be good.

 

That's good news. Have you noticed any rubbing when you go over any formidable bums or dips on the suspension?

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That's good news. Have you noticed any rubbing when you go over any formidable bums or dips on the suspension?

There is no rubbing period with the tires/fenders/body on my Wagon.

 

Granted, I have not done any "off-road" type driving so to speak, but I have no issues so far.

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redrilling the rims is pretty risky, if you bought those new, the chances of you succeeding are slim, its been done successfully and theres a post about it somewhere on here but anyways, if you screw up on the hub and your going down the highway and its bouncy, well just get another hub but if you screw up the rim, there goes all the money you spent on them, im in no need to search for rims since i found the high midtrim rims, (H rims they call them) i like them and being 13" tires, it doesnt scare me to buy new ones when it needs them again compared to anything bigger.

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redrilling the rims is pretty risky, if you bought those new, the chances of you succeeding are slim, its been done successfully and theres a post about it somewhere on here but anyways, if you screw up on the hub and your going down the highway and its bouncy, well just get another hub but if you screw up the rim, there goes all the money you spent on them, im in no need to search for rims since i found the high midtrim rims, (H rims they call them) i like them and being 13" tires, it doesnt scare me to buy new ones when it needs them again compared to anything bigger.

6 lug rims can be red rilles 3 times.....if you screw up.

 

Also it's easier to find another rim than it is to find another hub. They will never ever make more of them and more are going to scrap all the time.

 

You can buy brand used and new rims all day long and that's not changing

 

Every 6 lug hub red rill I've ever seen has a few off angle studs......esescially the fronts where the 4 red redrilled holes land on an uneven part of he the hub.

 

Plus buying 24 new studs and lug nuts isn't cheap.....would cost as much as 2 rims from wrecker.

 

Also cast is more prone to cracking from stress of extra holes than the rolled steel wheels.

 

And especially wiout a lift, you just might want to go back to the 13" again some point.....impossible once you redrilled hub

 

And also if your hub strips(which happens).....you will need to drill another before you can repair

 

 

Drill the rims

 

My $.02

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6 lug rims can be red rilles 3 times.....if you screw up.

 

Also it's easier to find another rim than it is to find another hub. They will never ever make more of them and more are going to scrap all the time.

 

You can buy brand used and new rims all day long and that's not changing

 

Every 6 lug hub red rill I've ever seen has a few off angle studs......esescially the fronts where the 4 red redrilled holes land on an uneven part of he the hub.

 

Plus buying 24 new studs and lug nuts isn't cheap.....would cost as much as 2 rims from wrecker.

 

Also cast is more prone to cracking from stress of extra holes than the rolled steel wheels.

 

And especially wiout a lift, you just might want to go back to the 13" again some point.....impossible once you redrilled hub

 

And also if your hub strips(which happens).....you will need to drill another before you can repair

 

 

Drill the rims

 

My $.02

OP did say he was afraid if he drilled holes it would make the rim weaker, then again i dont know how mazda rims look like anyways.
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First post! Been lurking awhile now.

 

As mentioned in other posts on this topic be sure to get your tires mounted before drilling the rims since could be a liability for them.

 

Great point with the cast hubs kinda seems the drilling hubs would be stronger with more studs but bein cast quite the opposite especially if a stud doesn't grab right.

 

Glad this came up tho as I plan to do this soon and up to now was leaning toward the hub drilling, but now definitely drilling the rims much easier and could be fixed on the fly much easier

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First post! Been lurking awhile now.

As mentioned in other posts on this topic be sure to get your tires mounted before drilling the rims since could be a liability for them.

Nah. Drill the rims with no tire using a drill press. Much more accurate and easier than hand drill.

 

Take the wheels to the shop and get tires mounted. Put them on the car yourself.

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I thought I'd mention I first tried a set of 14" Mazda 6 lugs and found the center hole was just too tight to fit on the back. So instead I found these Nissan wheels (also 14"). I put 185/70/R14 on them. Hopefully the photos show some of the offset. Car is stock (no lift). As mentioned, I took the wheels in to Schwab loose, they mounted and balanced, then I put 'em on myself. No issues so far. I did have a rear drum from another car with two studs knocked out for a template. I also had to hand file a tiny bit on a few of the new holes where the factory studs touched.  I still have winter tires on the stock 13" and this makes it easier to go back and forth.  

post-22035-0-24832700-1427501125_thumb.jpg

post-22035-0-21426500-1427501185_thumb.jpg

Edited by kerandt
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I thought I'd mention I first tried a set of 14" Mazda 6 lugs and found the center hole was just too tight to fit on the back. So instead I found these Nissan wheels (also 14"). I put 185/70/R14 on them. Hopefully the photos show some of the offset. Car is stock (no lift). As mentioned, I took the wheels in to Schwab loose, they mounted and balanced, them I put 'em on myself. No issues so far. I did have a rear drum from another car with two studs knocked out for a template. I also had to hand file a tiny bit on a few of the new holes where the factory studs touched.  I still have winter tires on the stock 13" and this makes it easier to go back and forth. 

Yeah the Mazdas need a few mm taken out of the center holes and then they fit fine.

 

Just a few mm at the 4 points where the hubcenter ridges hit.

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Yeah the Mazdas need a few mm taken out of the center holes and then they fit fine.

 

Just a few mm at the 4 points where the hubcenter ridges hit.

 

Can you explain this a little more? do you mean the 6x139.7 vs the 4x140 is off too by just too much?

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Can you explain this a little more? do you mean the 6x139.7 vs the 4x140 is off too by just too much?

No, the center hole in the rim will not fit over the bumps on the hub.

 

What I do is bolt it up loosely, mark the 4 points on the circle where it hits, then use a Dremel with a cylindrical stone to take out about 1mm off of the edge of the hole.

 

After doing this the wheels will fit on fine. Did this for a set of Mazda wheels for my XT. After tires mounted and balanced I had no vibrations at all driving even at 90+ mph.

 

The Nissan rims pictured above do not require this. Those are my favorite 14s to use....with the Mazdas being a close second

Edited by Gloyale
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No, the center hole in the rim will not fit over the bumps on the hub.

 

What I do is bolt it up loosely, mark the 4 points on the circle where it hits, then use a Dremel with a cylindrical stone to take out about 1mm off of the edge of the hole.

 

After doing this the wheels will fit on fine. Did this for a set of Mazda wheels for my XT. After tires mounted and balanced I had no vibrations at all driving even at 90+ mph.

 

The Nissan rims pictured above do not require this. Those are my favorite 14s to use....with the Mazdas being a close second

 

thank you! i will anticipate this.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So the final decision was to drill the wheels. The hubs seemed risky and like more work. Here's how it went:

 

Step 1: Very particularly find drill points

 

 

Step 2: Drill tiny holes

 

 

Step 3: Gradually drill larger holes until 9/16th bit

 

 

Step 4: Drill an angle for the lug nut

 

 

Finished drilling:

 

 

Step 5: Grind an extra few millimeters into the center to fit over the hubs

 

 

FITS! I like the look.

 

 

aw yeah:

 

Edited by lostalfos
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Funny, I saw your picture and thought that looks similar to a picture I took haha. I want to modify the bumper and take off that awful part that sticks up. Eventually, any more plans for yours?

 

 

Interesting, what is that part that sticks up all about? well, i just got the windows tinted and am planning on lifting it 2" in the future, getting some decent tires too. I thought about a black hood. Some brighter lights is going to be a necessity. unfortunately my headlights are suuuuuper dim atm. maybe corrosion issue or something from the previous own leaving is outside.

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