Soulraiser Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 I'm sure it's been answered multiple times, but searching isn't coming up with any solid results for me..maybe lack of keyword ideas... Anyways, I have an '86 Brat, body in great shape aside from a few bent pieces of chrome, and it wasn't running when I got it. I managed to put in a manual switch for my fuel pump for temporary use. After running for a small amount of time, anytime I would hit the gas, it would stall, so going back under the hood I found all vacuum lines good to go, but my carb gaskets(literally all of them) were leaking fuel, or sucking air. I went ahead and took the carb off..(how do I identify if it's the carter or hitachi?) and began to rip it apart with my rebuild kit sitting next to me. After getting to the fuel bowl (more than halfway full of sludge) I realized my rebuild kit was missing a few gaskets and decided it would probably be best to just get a weber and save myself the stress. Now, my concern is purely with the intake manifold, and if it will be suitable for a weber carb. It is an EA81; Do I have no choice but to try and find an ea82 intake? I've been having and extremely absurd amount of trouble finding any sort of spare parts for this thing in the entire state of Louisiana, closest I've been able to find what could be a donor vehicle was in Houston, and that's a good 7-8 hour drive, which I don't have the ability to make due to my days off never being together. Junkyards here seem to be a bust as well. If anyone has any input they could provide, I'd be more than grateful. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Carter/Weber is a 1bbl.Hitachi is a 2 bbl. You do not need an ea82 intake. You want an ea81 Hitachi intake in order for the aftermarket Weber adapter to fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEECHBM69 Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Carter has the throttle linkage on the driver's side, Hitachi on the passenger side. (From "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive") Do a search for "weber swap," and you'll find a ton of stuff to read through. Good luck! Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulraiser Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 Thanks guys, will be ordering a 32/36 with adapter plate from "webercarbsdirect" via Ebay on Thursday and will do my swap then. I also realized I have a broken cable that I am unsure of what it goes to, or rather what activates it.. It seems to be broken directly under the brake booster and it looks like it goes to the top of the transmission; I also have an issue where if I put it in FWD, or rather, any gear aside from 4-low, the transmission screams as soon as I let off of the clutch at all...could that cable be related? Thanks again guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 That's the hill holder clutch cable. When the cable is good and if the unit is in good working order you press in on the clutch all the way and press the brake to turn your clutch pedal into a hill holder. Once you release the clutch the hill holder goes off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulraiser Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 Interesting, not very useful down here in Louisiana, as we lack any sort of hills, so I wont worry about it too much for now. Any idea about the 4WD? The transmission screams at me when I put it in FWD or 4 high, but the "lo" light turns off on the dash, and it wont actually move. Point being, all I can do is get it moving in 4 low...any ideas? Could the transmission itself need repaired? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 So it won't move in fwd? If you put it in 1st and leave it running will it die if you take your foot off the clutch? If it doesn't die have some one look to see if your hub stripped and your axle is spinning in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 When you say "screams" is it like a grinding type of scream or a rubbing type of scream? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulraiser Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 (edited) Kind of sounds like nails on a chalk board when I put it in fwd and try to lift off of the clutch. I got the new weber on it and it idles and sounds beautiful, just trying to find out what all vacuum hoses I can rip out, but for now I just have them all plugged off and about half of the obvious ones gone. The main issue as of now is the fact that I'm stuck in 4 low and maxed out at 30mph. When I'm in 4 low it moves great, no abnormal sounds, hell, I even took it through my drive-way, which everything gets stuck in, and it went through it without even a slip, so I don't think it's an axle/hub issue. I'll upload a video tomorrow if I remember after I get off work, of exactly what it does and when/how it does it. Edited May 17, 2015 by Soulraiser Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulraiser Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 As I was taking the video I realized that it sounded the exact same as a transmission not all the way in gear, un-did the 4wd shifter linkage, shoved it up manually via screwdriver in bolt hole; and I now seem to have fwd working like a charm. Though, I still can't get it over 25-30mph for some odd reason...I'm going to change out my spark plugs and I think the fuel pressure regulator I have is bad, no money for a holley so I have to keep swapping the Mr. Gasket ones until one works properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 How's the fuel filters? The Main filter is just in front of the Left rear tire, secondary one is under the hood near the brake booster. What is the distributor timing set at? Factory is 8* BTDC. But with a Weber, you can go as much as 12*. Ran mine at 11*, and it seemed "Happy". Get someone to be a camera operator and take a video of how/what it's doing as you drive it. What you need as far as parts go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulraiser Posted May 19, 2015 Author Share Posted May 19, 2015 Today I replaced both fuel filters and installed a new pressure regulator which has everything working well. I need to get a timing light to check/set the timing, but as of now it does idle perfectly at 700 RPM. Unfortunately the spark plug wires were so old when I was replacing the plugs I ripped one out, so I am waiting on new plug wires via Ebay since absolutely no auto parts store was willing or able to get them for me. My last assumption to what a problem could be, drawn by the fact that it did backfire 2-3 times when I first drove it, is that the exhaust may be clogged up. It looks like it's just the headers into a Y-pipe then it has 2 1/4" pipe back to the muffler. As far as parts go, currently I need to get my hands on, or make, some shifter bushings. The engine itself is running strong so I don't believe it's the engine causing any issues. Fresh engine oil and trans oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Some shifter slop fixes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122888-tech-tip-ea81-4-speed-sloppy-shifter-bushing-fix/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/84045-new-fix-for-4-speed-shifter-slop/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulraiser Posted May 21, 2015 Author Share Posted May 21, 2015 Thanks bud, I went ahead and bookmarked both of them for future reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulraiser Posted May 22, 2015 Author Share Posted May 22, 2015 (edited) <p>Okay, so I don't have access to a timing light and don't have the money to buy one, I was attempting to set it by listening to the idle but it wasn't really working out. After I did the plugs and wires and installed a good working fuel pressure regulator and replaced both fuel filters; the idle is extremely high. I also replaced the throttle cable, and while I had the old one off I realized even when the throttle was "closed" as much as the lever would move forward, it was still about 3/4" away from the idle adjustment screw. I never touched the idle screw during installation. Any ideas aside from timing or is that basically what that is telling me I need to adjust? I also think I am having a little linkage binding, so I went ahead and loosened the nut to where it wasn't even touching, and it still wont go all the way back...maybe a stronger return spring? I'll play with it a bit more tomorrow.</p> Edited May 22, 2015 by Soulraiser Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulraiser Posted May 23, 2015 Author Share Posted May 23, 2015 (edited) Got the idle issue fixed and have been test driving it...It keeps back firing but the timing and everything doesn't SEEM to be the issue, I solved the dieseling problem as well. Could the exhaust be causing the back-firing? I've never really messed with exhausts. -Was definitely the exhaust, looks like someone had replaced the gasket at the manifold and stripped out the bolt...Going to figure this out tomorrow when I do the clutch and shifter linkage. Edited June 6, 2015 by Soulraiser Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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