subakev Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 It should read 9 ohms according to the Haynes manual. When I use the multimeter the number jumps around up and down all over the place and goes to zero. I'm guessing that means it's bad. I'm going to try an get the car warned up and take it off and see if it's open or closed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subakev Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 I performed the test that the haynes manual suggests for the IAC. I got it up to normal operating temp and pulled the sensor. it was about half way open. the manual states that it should be closed. with the sensor pulled out i was able to get a more stable resistance reading. i showing 10.2 ohms on one side and 9.8 on the other side. (looking for 9ohms) So this needs to be replaced. Is it to far gone to just give a good cleaning? Its a pretty expensive part that I cannot afford to get right away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Any junk yards in your area? Try cleaning it by putting Seafoam in it and letting it soak for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subakev Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 there is a u-pull or something like it an hour away. you thinking i could find one there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subakev Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 Any junk yards in your area? Try cleaning it by putting Seafoam in it and letting it soak for a while. I gave it a scrub with throttle body cleaner, i will soak it as well. do you think seafoam would be more effective? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Seafoam and throttle body cleaner both remove carbon so either should work. Always wort giving a call to jys to see if they have any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subakev Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 thanks for the tip, i didnt think about that. do you know what years would be compatible with mine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 I looked on Rock auto and the part numbers are the same from 1990 to 1998 on the 2.2. I am sure someone on the board here that knows more about it will confirm the years you can use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subakev Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 thank you for doing that. i wasnt sure how to look that up, thats a good trick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Before replacing the IAC make sure ALL of the tubes are connected to the intake tube properly. If any of the smaller tubes are unhooked or broken the MAF will not read properly and the fuel mixture will be off. Also make sure the intake tube is clamped properly at both ends. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Don't start adding "sea foam" or other BS until you get the car running correctly less you want more headaches. TBH, I never use snake oil and cars run fine. NEVER add anything to the engine oil. NEVER add anything to fuel either (unless it's sub zero). It's not needed and secondhand "it worked great for me" shouldn't be relied upon. If you have carbon build up, use the throttle more. The photo of the exhaust spit was water. Good news it means your cat is working and it's normal to see that after you start your car. In the morning watch other cars and you'll see them spitting water out the tailpipe. It's part of the process. After you reattached the vacuum line, did you disconnect the battery neg (-) to reset the ECM? If not, do so for 30 seconds. Reattach and start car. If it'll stay running, go take it for a drive on the highway and run the piss out of it. Put it in "3" so it pulls out of OD and you'll turn a higher RPM. Drive it at 70 to get rpms up. It appears it ran rich for too long from the broken vacuum line, and some sensors are fouled. As long as air filter, fuel filter, oil level, CPS, etc. are OK, and you can keep it running, give it a good thrashing to remove the deposits. Years ago I had a 92' SHO. It ran just like yours, but on occasion it'd clear up and run OK. Then cut out and and eventually wouldn't start. Spent 3 months towing it to a shop and leaving it with them for weeks on end. It supposedly wouldn't act up, or they'd change a cam sensor, drive it a few days, then say it was fixed. Would go and pick up, get a mile down the road and it act up. After getting furious I broke down and took it to Ford. Within a day they called and said the CPS wiring was rubbing against the crank pulley, causing a random grounding that would short out. Replaced it and when I went to get to it, the mechanic stated the same thing I told you. He said to run the piss out of it. That it had been running too rich and fouled out a bunch of sensors. That really running it good for 50 miles would clear it out. TBH, I thought he was full of it and couldn't believe what he was saying, but figured he was a Ford mechanic and lying wouldn't make any sense. Once I started the car and drove it out of there, it was running rough but was at least running. Ran it for the 50 miles like he stated and all was fine. Follow the advice and report back in 50 miles. If it can't make 50 miles, make sure the plug wires are in correct order, check your ignition coil, get it scanned again for codes if CEL comes back on. Also check ALL vacuum lines. They can harden at bends and rot on in spots of long sections or split. $10 and 30 minutes can get you all new vacuum lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Even though I agree that most additives are snake oil Seafoam does work removing carbon build up. He does not have to run it through the system just soak the part that is carboned up in it. I even use it to clean carbon build up in my guns. I also agree on running the heck out of it to help remove carbon build up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Even though I agree that most additives are snake oil Seafoam does work removing carbon build up. He does not have to run it through the system just soak the part that is carboned up in it. I even use it to clean carbon build up in my guns. I also agree on running the heck out of it to help remove carbon build up. Just too many horror stories out there. Would hate for him to put something in that shouldn't be and making matters worse. Sorry if it came across like an attack. Some carbon build up is normal and really can't be prevented. Giving any car a good thrashing with a heavy foot getting on a highway ramp usually removes piston and valve build up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 I have used seafoam in all my vehicles for at least 20 years and have never had a problem. It is also a good fuel stabilizer that helps disperse water out of the fuel. http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subakev Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 (edited) Not adding chemicals into the engine, just cleaning some parts. I did add some Lucas oil fuel stabilizer to the gas but just a tanks worth. I will try and get it out on the road again tomorrow and see how it goes. Edited June 28, 2015 by subakev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 I've actually had 2 cats get ruined over the years from fuel additives that even stated they were "cat safe". Both were Fords and both had the honeycomb melted so EGT apparently got way too hot. Both ran fine and were in correct running order prior. As far as water in gas goes, maybe that's a regional thing though Ohio gets below freezing winters (down to 0 sub 10's) with negative wind chills and occasional -5 and very humid summers, and water in tank never occurred for me. After hundreds of thousands of miles and more cars owned than I could even remember off the top of my head, none ever needed additives. Fuel additives used were supposed to boost octane IIRC. For water in tanks, they sell products specifically to remove that. Throttle body can get a little gunky over time. So definitely worth inspecting and cleaning any build up. Just try and avoid anything dropping down in. Fuel injectors, if actually clogged, should be removed and cleaned or replaced. But since your plugs were actually black sooted, that means too much fuel. With a vacuum leak like you had, that can cause that. Other vacuum leaks can cause too lean conditions which is worse. Your cat, O2 sensors, etc. are most definitely fouled. If idle doesn't clear up after 50 miles and a battery reset, might want to connect a vacuum gauge to an intake nipple after car is fully warmed up and report the readings. It can actually tell you a lot like if the cat is clogged (or melted and restricting partial flow), leaks, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subakev Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 I was able to run the car about 40 miles today, country roads, light rush hour traffic to the highway, about 10 miles on the highway and then back home on the country roads. There is a slight, inconsistent, up and down to the idle. There was no problems until I was about a mile from the house, there was a shudder on acceleration. When I got to the stop sign, the car died. I got it going, but I had to use my portable jump starter (the other day after I left the key on the on position overnight, today I found out the battery wont hold a charge) I made it about a mile home and then the car died about 30 seconds after sitting in my driveway. The plugs I am using now are ones I used previously and are somewhat fouled (dry black residue), and I need a new battery. Any ideas on the problems I had in the last mile home? Just spark plugs or maybe I need a new IAC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 May be a charging problem. Start the car then test voltage at the battery. Alternator should put out close to 14 volts. Also you can clean the plugs with a wire brush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 Can't remember--did you try cleaning the IACV earlier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subakev Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 Car started this time without a jump, and showed 14.26 volts. Showed about 12.6volts before I started it. the car ran for about 1 or 2 minutes and the it died. i haven't cleaned the plugs yet though. I will do that tomorrow since I've been up for about 18 hours now and I'm getting tired. when i tried to start the car after i got home and it seemed like the battery was dead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subakev Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 Can't remember--did you try cleaning the IACV earlier? Yes I cleaned it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 volts don't mean that much when you need to push power to something. could be bad cables or a corroded connection somewhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Pull the cover off the fuse box next to the battery under the hood and inspect the fusible link for breakage. You'll see fuses and large relays, then you'll see this upside down " U " shaped wire with 2 spades on each end. Mine cracked and corroded, and one day car just died and wouldn't start despite having driven and parked it at a store 15 minutes prior. Not entirely sure what all it handles as I think I still interior lights, but no starting circuit. Probably not your issue but worth checking none the less as it's a major wire needed. Mine was broken and arcing, creating an intermittent issue. Beyond that, is your alt belt tight? Do you have a volt meter? If alt is testing OK at idle, maybe find an old cig lighter adapter cable and wire voltmeter into that (or attach to a known 12v source) and drive car around block a few times, while observing voltage. Is your fuel pump making any noises? Is it louder than usual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subakev Posted June 30, 2015 Author Share Posted June 30, 2015 Car seems to be running ok today. Started up fine without assistance. I tightened the battery connections and lightly cleaned them. Still a small lope in the idle, i give it a touch of gas and it seems to go away. No shuddering on a 40 minute trip today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subakev Posted June 30, 2015 Author Share Posted June 30, 2015 still need to clean the spark plugs but i cant find my wire brush. i may just end up buying a new set for peace of mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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