85 GL wagon, 4WD, ea82. Rusty.
Yep, I'm doing this the old fashioned way. Now that I've got all the bolts (4 + 1 from the air conditioning component that was bolted to it) from the bell-housing out, I've been trying to separate the bell-housing from the block. It doesn't want to budge. Not being a mechanic...no, not even close, I'm not sure what to do next. Preferrably, people remove the engine to replace the clutch, but I'm using what I've got on hand. Any tips? I've been able to pry it about an inch or so away from the block, but now it just seems stuck. Help!
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Guest Message by DevFuse
Clutch replacement WITHOUT a cherry-picker
Started by
cabrasafado
, Jan 09 2005 11:11 PM
4 replies to this topic
#2
VaporTrail
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- Administrator
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- 11,137 posts
Brattitude Adjustment
- Central Iowa
Posted 09 January 2005 - 11:16 PM
do you have the motor mounts unbolted? should be able to jack up the motor enough to clear the crossmember, and pull the engine forward (provided you have the rad out already)
#3
cabrasafado
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- Members
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- 4 posts
New User
- Utah County
Posted 09 January 2005 - 11:18 PM
do you have the motor mounts unbolted? should be able to jack up the motor enough to clear the crossmember, and pull the engine forward (provided you have the rad out already)
No,I haven't done that. Where are those located?
P.S. THAT was a darn fast reply...
#4
ballitch
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- Members
- 999 posts
Certified Subaru Nut
- Salem, OR
Posted 09 January 2005 - 11:31 PM
the motor mounts are located under the engine, did you remove the pitch stop from the bellhousing? Also, did you drop the tranny? if you drop the driveline(if you have 4WD) and unbolt tranny, and crossmember shouldnt you be able to lower tranny with tranny crossmember and tranny in a package, then you should be able to unbolt bellhousing from motor, and come to think of it you dont really have to remove bellhousing in order to gain access to the clutch/pressure plate/flywheel assembly. now i am just rambling.
~Josh~
~Josh~
#5
torxxx
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- Gold Subscribers
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I void warranties
- Fairbanks
Posted 10 January 2005 - 03:54 AM
1. take the oil pan skid plate off and raidator out, unhook heater core lines
2. disconnect the exhaust - 4 14 mm nuts
3. Look back about 4 to 6 inches from where the exhaust bolts where, there is the cross member. look around on the parts where it slants up, there is two 14 mm nuts (one on each side of the block.
4. take a floor jack, lift the engine up by the oil pan (put a piece of wood between the jack and the oil pan) jack it up 2 or 3 inches.
5. now grab the engine by the oil fill pipe and the valve cover on the other side of the engine and pull forward. The engine should slide right away from the tranny.
6. change clutch
7. do steps 5 through 1 to install
2. disconnect the exhaust - 4 14 mm nuts
3. Look back about 4 to 6 inches from where the exhaust bolts where, there is the cross member. look around on the parts where it slants up, there is two 14 mm nuts (one on each side of the block.
4. take a floor jack, lift the engine up by the oil pan (put a piece of wood between the jack and the oil pan) jack it up 2 or 3 inches.
5. now grab the engine by the oil fill pipe and the valve cover on the other side of the engine and pull forward. The engine should slide right away from the tranny.
6. change clutch
7. do steps 5 through 1 to install
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