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Intermittent compression issue 88 gl ea-82


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6 replies to this topic

#1 awareuvlite

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Posted 18 January 2005 - 03:04 PM

I am in the process of purchasing an 88 gl 4wd 5spd. The 1st compression ck with the engine cold on the ea-82 engine showed 150 lbs in 3 cyls and 50 lbs in 1 cyl. The next ck showed 25 lbs and the next 0 lbs. Started the car, it ran on 3 cyls for a minute or so then smoothed out as it warmed up. Checked the compression while the engine was at operating temp. Compression read 150 lbs. I would think a sticking lifter is the culprit as it ticks at times when started. Have not been able to duplicate the issue after driving for a couple of days. Does anyone have anything else to add. Am I going in the right direction to drain the oil and fill with ATF and run for a minute or so to loosen any sticking lifters? Any feedback on this. Thanks in advance.

#2 Vanislru

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Posted 18 January 2005 - 03:22 PM

I am in the process of purchasing an 88 gl 4wd 5spd. The 1st compression ck with the engine cold on the ea-82 engine showed 150 lbs in 3 cyls and 50 lbs in 1 cyl. The next ck showed 25 lbs and the next 0 lbs. Started the car, it ran on 3 cyls for a minute or so then smoothed out as it warmed up. Checked the compression while the engine was at operating temp. Compression read 150 lbs. I would think a sticking lifter is the culprit as it ticks at times when started. Have not been able to duplicate the issue after driving for a couple of days. Does anyone have anything else to add. Am I going in the right direction to drain the oil and fill with ATF and run for a minute or so to loosen any sticking lifters? Any feedback on this. Thanks in advance.

I had a similar prob, and after all was said and done I pulled the motor and found the rings were all gummed up and distorted on the one cylinder. Later on I talked with this guy Paul who's a retired RCAF mechanic who's had a longterm love affair with subies and he said that most of the time you can pull a plug and put some hard core fuel system solvent in there let it sit for a day and then crank it by hand a few times with the coil disconnected and the plug back in. Pull the plug back out crank the motor with the starter but with the coil still disconnected, might want to place a rag over the hole cause it'll launch the fluid, then replace plug and crank a few more times. Hook the coil back up and you're good to go. Make sure you fill the whole cylinder with solvent. LMK if unclear on procedure and be careful when clearing the solvent out.

#3 awareuvlite

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Posted 18 January 2005 - 04:39 PM

I had a similar prob, and after all was said and done I pulled the motor and found the rings were all gummed up and distorted on the one cylinder. Later on I talked with this guy Paul who's a retired RCAF mechanic who's had a longterm love affair with subies and he said that most of the time you can pull a plug and put some hard core fuel system solvent in there let it sit for a day and then crank it by hand a few times with the coil disconnected and the plug back in. Pull the plug back out crank the motor with the starter but with the coil still disconnected, might want to place a rag over the hole cause it'll launch the fluid, then replace plug and crank a few more times. Hook the coil back up and you're good to go. Make sure you fill the whole cylinder with solvent. LMK if unclear on procedure and be careful when clearing the solvent out.


If the rings were gummed up, would'nt that be a continuous issue? Like i said, i have not been able to duplicate issue. Thanks for the reply.

#4 Vanislru

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Posted 18 January 2005 - 04:43 PM

depends on whether it's 1 ring or all of them

#5 All_talk

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Posted 18 January 2005 - 05:41 PM

The solvent trick might work fine but I'd sugjest you change the oil after your done. :)

Gary

#6 mattri

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Posted 18 January 2005 - 10:24 PM

There's a shop here in Denver called S-Wing, awsome Suby shop, great guys, very honest, excellent work. The owner, Mike, was just telling me about this machine he got from BG. I guess you bolt it right up to the throttle body and it uses solvent down the intake, through the valves and into the compression chambers to do a pretty hardcore clean up on the motor. He says that he's seen leak downs go from 40's down to 5%. Compression go from all over the place like you're talking to steady 130's. Between crap on the valves keeping them from sealing and gunked up rings like Van said I guess it really makes a difference. He calls the machine "The Fogger", when all that gunk comes out the tail pipe it makes quite a mess. Matt.

#7 ballitch

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Posted 19 January 2005 - 12:10 AM

That sounds like an awesome way to clean that all that crap outta there, i might try that on ym EJ22.........hmmmmm........................






~Josh~




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