Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
BRAT still failing smog...... possible CARB rebuild
Posted 07 June 2005 - 03:40 PM
CO levels are through the roof. New O2 sensor and cat were installed. Car is tuned and idles beautifully. Revving the engine w/o load gets low CO levels. Running the car on the dyno (underload) makes high CO levels. One thing that makes me think it's the carb is b/c even with the fuel mixture screw turned in all the way, it's running rich. That's not normal right?
Someone mentioned that the EGR system might be clogged. Anyone have any insight on getting to it? Will seafoam clean that up?
Anyone have problems that I am having?
Thanks for the help
Posted 07 June 2005 - 05:05 PM
even with a new 02 sensor, make sure the threads are clean with a thin layer of silver anti-seize, make sure the exhaust pipe has a good ground.
Get a leak-down tester, if it says you are running rich even with the screws all the way in, you may be blowing a little oil past the rings causing the reading to "look" rich.
Might run 2 cans of B-12 through the tank when you are about empty, works great for cleaning the inside of the carb.
Pull the PCV palve out and shoot some carb cleaner through it.
I'm a little worried about your rings if levels are only high under load. I would probably drain the oil and fill with 50W oil. That will reduce the amount of oil slipping past the rings.
You might step up to a hotter thermostat, just for the test.
Posted 30 August 2005 - 02:29 PM
Posted 31 August 2005 - 12:22 AM
In order to pass mine, I replaced the y-pipe with a lower mileage one with a better cat, and re-routed the entire vacuum system using new hose and bypassing some of the less needed components that looked suspect. I bypassed all the hard lines and simplified much of the routing. Some knowledge of the principles of operation of carb emissions gear is needed, but it's not difficult to figure out. Most of the stuff in there is "passive" for trapping rougue gasses when your rig is sitting in a hot parking lot - this stuff can't be tested other than to look under the hood to see if it's physically present - no tailpipe test will show any difference with or without it. Even in CA.
Posted 31 August 2005 - 07:42 AM
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users