14 replies to this topic

[Rallywagon]

I have used a discontinued brand of rust converter with limited results, but I have heard good things about the AW Chesterton product.

Anyone have a strong recommendation for or against any particular rust converters?

Thanks.

[Sweet82]

Rust Converters....

I use a phosphoric acid (could be spelled wrong). I think it's made by Dupont and is sold at auto body supply stores as a metal primer.

It's a green liquid that converts rust to shiny metal or a black color depending on the extent of the rust. It etches the metal and is ready for priming/painting in about 10 minutes...

Is this what your talking about?
Good Luck,
Glenn
82 SubaruHummer
01 Forester

[Gravityman]

The best of the best would to instead of just using a rust converter, use POR-15. With this stuff you can paint over rust instead of using the converter. I did try some converter I boght from LOWES (in a big clear bottle with green fluid) on the tailgate on for my brat and so far so good. BUT the best thing is POR-15 I had a friend paint just about every thing on his car with this stuff without preping the rust (which you do not have to do) and he has had no rust growth what so ever. The stuff is a little expensive but it is worth every drop. When I start working on the body/frame of the brat this will be the key ingrediant of preventing any rust. Hope this helps!

So dont forget POR-15

http://www.por15.com/

ALSO try this stuff
Par-Al-Ketone - Its used for airframe corrosion resistance.

An excellent corrosion inhibitor for use on exterior surfaces of parts that are subject to exposure. Recommended for all control cables. Meets spec. MIL-C-52, Type 1. May be sprayed, dipped, wiped or brushed on. Thin with mineral spirits or use undiluted.

http://www.aircraft-...paralketone.php

[Rallywagon]

Thanks guys.

Glen can you give me the specific name of the Dupont product...they have a million at the autobody supply.

Scott

[NorthWet]

I am pretty sure that Sweet82 is talking about what is essentially Naval Jelly, not a converter but a remover. Anything with phosphoric acid is meant to chemically remove the rust.

For those who don't know what a "rust converter" is, it is a material that combines with the iron oxides that constitute rust and turn it into a relatively inert compound. It will typically leave the surface a dark purplish color (along with your hands, clothes, dogs). The treated surface can be painted, but if heated to high temperature (e.g. exhaust surfaces), it will convert back to iron oxides.

I have heard good things here about POR-15, but was unaware that it was a paint/primer material. I have used another product, but can't remember what it is called (I bought it at WalMart); it worked satisfactorily.

[Sweet82]

Thanks guys.

Glen can you give me the specific name of the Dupont product...they have a million at the autobody supply.

Scott

Northwet is right, it seems it might be a professional Navel Jelly type product.

The "professional" stuff has all kinds of warnings but it seems like it should work the same, just a question of strength (phosphoric acid).

I'll take a look when I get home and see if I can still read the writing on the bottle. I remember it being called Metal Primer by 3M or Dupont. It was not packaged for consumers.

For what it's worth, I have had mixed success with this stuff. On some projects it worked and some the rust reappeared a year or two later although that could have been attributed to my painting?

[Scoobywagon]

I've used Evap-o-rust. Good stuff. Autozone carries it.

[SUBARU3]

I have used RUST-BULLET


Actually better than POR 15, but similar in many ways. It works great! I recommend it highly.

Todd

www.rustbullet.com

[Rallywagon]

Thanks for the comments...does the Rust Bullet leave behind a tough layer with some strength like POR-15?

[KStretch55]

Be very careful with any product that contains Ketone. It's very nasty stuff on your liver and other organs. Don't breathe it or let it soak into your skin.

[SUBARU3]

Yes, Rust bullet leaves a VERY hard surface when dry. I really am impressed with the product.

[jxavierf]

Interesting..........I live on the east coast and drive on salted roads. My 84 wagon has nearly no rust on it at all and I would like to keep it that way. The existing paint on it is in very good condition, however, I know it is short lived. As a prevention, I would like to use something like RB. With cost in mind, I would like to coat the car (or at least the rust prone areas) with something like RB, but would like to then repaint the car all over. My Q is, should I sand the existing paint off (pain in the arse), apply the RB, then paint the entire car??? What would the the advised step-by-step process for what I'm looking to accomplish??

Thanks.................

[SUBARU3]

I'm not sure you would get a good exterior finish that way. Most rust starts from the inside out, not the outside in.

I would work hard to maintain the paint. Keep it clean and touch up chips.

I would consider removing all interior panals to access the interior of doors and rear quarters. Clean all the dirt out and coat the inside ith rust bullet from the bottom up about 8 inches.

Do frame rails and the insides of the front fenders too. Also the radiator support.

Don't sand off your paint!


Todd

[jxavierf]

Thanks for the tips............