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Carb Block VS. Turbo Block (EA82T Rebuild)


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43 replies to this topic

#26 WJM

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 10:05 PM

dont need the rear PCV. I went 24k on a 9.5:1. Failure were rings and a valve...valve melted.

why less than 7? its more than safe enough to run 12 psi with 93 octane on the stock header...add in TWE stuff and you will go lean with anything more than 10.

Heres the thing...

Dyno results show that the 9.5 doesnt make anymore power/tq over the 7.7. It make more power off boost, but thats it.

why run less boost? both engines feel the same on the butt dyno with the same mods.

But no, there is no way to run LESS boost than stock wastegate pressure. If you so chose to, you would need to take the actuator apart, and put a softer spring in it.

Ive taken several 600mile+ trips, there are zero problems.

#27 TheSubaruJunkie

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 10:21 PM

Failure were rings and a valve...valve melted.




Thats the last thing I need.

-Brian

#28 Island Roo

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 10:26 PM

i was just answering his Q if heads were same

#29 TheSubaruJunkie

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 10:32 PM

Thanks. Im going to have to find someplace to rebuild my heads and machine them. Im wondering if they can take the heads from the MPFI XT and tap that port in the 1/3 head.

-Brian

#30 SLyDerVetTE

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 10:46 PM

Ok...Im not new to this board by any means and I do have a little knowledge in this area. My 87 RX I found at a dealership in good ole farmville VA (Where I attend college) was $300. Couldnt go wrong! Got the car running with a new fuel pump and fixed it right there on the lot. My project car had started! I drove the car stock for a while but it felt entirely too gutless. Also own a corvette with a 383 stroker so i guess i can see why. It had developed overheating problem so the first thing I did was grab a 9.5-1 comp motor from a loyale with 30XXX and slap all my stock turbo stuff on. Then I added a front mount, 2.5 inch full exhaust, cone filter, boost controler. Boost was set @ 13 psi with 93 octane. This thing was awake! Low end = 1000 times better, top end was about the same. To make a long story short, the turbo block is new going back in my car simply due to the fact that i can get the NA short block for $55 at the junk yard and OEM headgaskets for $55 shipped for genuinesubaru.com. If i keep my heads in shape I am money and for the price i will drive these motors til they look like yours:lol:.
* side note...ive just finished my new NA with all turbo goodies. MODS= front mount from daytona turbo, T3 turbo, 2.5 inch downpipe and full exhaust, 1.75 inch equal length header, extra injector triping @ 9 psi and water injection triping @ 7 psi. I get home in a week for Xmas break and she is getting dropped and fired up asap!!!!!
****GO FOR IT, you WONT be disappointed****

#31 SLyDerVetTE

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 10:56 PM

oh forgot to mention (but not to discourage you) the motor that Im about to drop in is my 3rd NA with turbo stuff. First one went from stupidity (15 psi):slobber: with stock fuel system. Didnt knock when it was cold outside with 93 octane but virginia weather and an 75 degree januanry day and keer pow. Oh but she rolled. Second went to even morey stupidity. Hydolocked the motor after changing the intake gaskets. A little too much coolant leaked into the ports = blown headgasket. Both motors where built carlessly in one day solely because im cheap and dont like waiting. Gotta love these subies:brow:

#32 Island Roo

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 11:00 PM

Low end = 1000 times better, top end was about the same. To make a long story short, the turbo block is new going back in my car simply due to the fact that i can get the NA short block for $55 at the junk yard and OEM headgaskets for $55 shipped for genuinesubaru.com.



not sure i understand that, you say the turbo block is going back in yet then state that you can get NA short blocks for $55- so are you going to run the NA or Turbo junk?!

#33 TheSubaruJunkie

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 11:49 PM

Ok...Im not new to this board by any means...



You look new. In fact, under your nickname it sais your new as well. Im glad you spoke up. Now I know not to run 15psi through my motor. Im okay with stock boost, i was happy with 10psi but shortly thereafter is when my engine started to burn a massive amount of oil. And then not long after that is when the block went.

-Brian

#34 SLyDerVetTE

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Posted 08 December 2005 - 07:44 AM

Im new according to how many posts ive written. Ive been gathering knowledge from this site for more that a year now and just have not spoke up. Reasons mainly being im a full time college student away from home. Suby is a home and vette is here with me. No camara to show off all my awesome stuff and everyone on this site is so crazy about showing proof. As for what I was say about the $55 blocks. I got to the junk yard and buy an NA block. I slap all of my turbo stuff on it and WALA. Ive done it sucessfully three times. I have two cars so I can afford to blow up these motors as often as I want and rebuilds are so cheap. 383 stocker was 6K :banghead:. Ive gotten so good at rebiulding these motors now i can pull mine and a junk yard motor and take both apart and put the new one back togather in the same day and drop the new one the next day...Thats how that last 2 hav gone anyway. I took a little more time with meticulous cleaning on the most recent. All in all...DO IT...dont run 15 psi and Dont hydrolock it and you will be golden:rolleyes:

#35 Subaru Jim Maple Ridge

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Posted 08 December 2005 - 11:16 AM

I am, and usually do, run a turboed 9.5 as a daily driver. The main problem is that the mechanical advance should be recurved in the distributor to get rid of the bogging at full throttle from a stop. I have never bothered because the car flies under light throttle. No attributable mechanical problems due to the switch, just make sure that your cooling system is up to the extra strain. A rad is not very romantic or splashy, nobody brags about them but it is the only thing protecting all of your efforts.

#36 TheSubaruJunkie

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Posted 08 December 2005 - 11:34 AM

Yeah my radiator is a new 2 row. I think im gonna do it. Just gotta find the right block.

-Brian

#37 calebz

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Posted 08 December 2005 - 11:34 AM

The main problem is that the mechanical advance should be recurved in the distributor to get rid of the bogging at full throttle from a stop.


What year/style do you have . The advance types are different depending on what you have.

#38 SLyDerVetTE

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Posted 08 December 2005 - 12:22 PM

Wow. I just read my previous posts. No wonder nobody could understand what I was saying. My typing straight sucks. Sorry about the confusion. Im an idiot and its the week before finals. :-\

#39 TheSubaruJunkie

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Posted 08 December 2005 - 12:49 PM

Its okay, i understood what you were saying. Something about going through 3 blocks cause you like to blow up subaru engines (sick and twisted bastard you are). :lol:

-Brian

#40 SLyDerVetTE

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Posted 08 December 2005 - 01:49 PM

what can i say...its cheap fun:brow:

#41 WJM

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Posted 08 December 2005 - 01:51 PM

38 PSI...GT25R...Meth injection...VP Import...

VVVVVVVVVVVRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMMMMM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! *turbo sucking noise*

#42 ben--ny

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Posted 18 December 2005 - 08:05 AM

brian

i'll be doing the same thing soon but with a ea81 muliti point efi, 9.5 pistons, tuned exhaust and tubrocharged should be fun!!!!!

#43 ausubaru92

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Posted 19 December 2005 - 03:01 AM

Has anybody ever tapped their mpfi head for the oil and water lines, cos thats what im planning, seeing that the turbo head i have has a crack between the exhaust and the coolant passages.

On a slightly different note, has anybody put a turbo on a mpfi block and kept the mpfi NA ecu,.. thats the 87 and on ecu?


thanks guys

#44 Dylan86GL10

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 12:05 PM

But no, there is no way to run LESS boost than stock wastegate pressure. If you so chose to, you would need to take the actuator apart, and put a softer spring in it.


You cut the actuator rod, thread it for a coupling nut, and then thread back together. Total length sets base pressure.

Hey Vette, I'm in Newport News.




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