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removing sheared bolt with drill bit stuck in it
Posted 05 July 2006 - 08:54 AM
now what? generic off the shelf sears drill bits.
i'll try extracting the drill bit, but i'm thinking i might have to drill around the bolt to get it to come out. i have a spare bad block to experiment on to make sure i don't hit a water jacket or something. many tiny holes all around the bolt until i can wrestle it out.
Posted 05 July 2006 - 09:09 AM
Man that's gotta hurt.. :-\ I'm trying to think of some options, but there aren't many coming to mind. If you try drilling again, I might recommend using some cobalt bits instead of generic ones - hopefully they won't snap on you.. Also - try to use the largest bit you can - less chance of snapping.
Posted 05 July 2006 - 09:17 AM
i was wondering if maybe some high-end drill bits would blow through this off the shelf sears craftsman drill bit. i think i might buy a few highstrength bits.
any ideas what the strongest drill bits are? cobalt it is?
machinist friend for the NIH dropped off a pair of needle nose pliers that are microscopic thin that he made just for extracting very tiny sheared off drill bits. but i doubt i'll get the remnant out....other options will be needed.
Posted 05 July 2006 - 09:26 AM
I had this same problem a few years ago in the rear end of a truck with a left hand drill bit. After talking to many knowledgeable guys at the hardware store I ended up using 2 of these special coated titanium(or was it diamond tipped?) bits to be able to drill through the other bit. Not sure if that's exactly what they were but a few minutes (like an hours lol) of drilling with them and it came out with the broken bolt, they were super expensive bits though..in the range of $35, meant for drilling through super hardened steel. Not sure if that helps at all but any good hardware store should know what you need to drill through that other drill bit. I would at least try and drill it with a cheap bit just to see if it doesn't come loose first.
I've also had sucess using my dremel with a grinding bit to knock loose broken off easy outs (will never ever use those things again, of course we all know that).
Posted 05 July 2006 - 09:32 AM
agreed on ez outs, they suck hardcore. up there with snake oil in my oppinion.
Posted 05 July 2006 - 10:17 AM
Posted 05 July 2006 - 10:42 AM
Posted 05 July 2006 - 10:46 AM
Posted 05 July 2006 - 10:49 AM
i didn't think about larger bolts not breaking, good point....for next time!!!
Actually, I was talking about a larger bit - small bits easily snap, so if you can get a larger one going, it's less likely to break on you.
And as far as I know, cobalt is the hardest drill bit you can buy. Though maybe something with diamond would be available, and obviously harder. Let us know what you find, b/c I'm quite curious.
Posted 05 July 2006 - 10:51 AM
BIT, righto! ....that's what i meant, a larger bit. typo. thanks.
Actually, I was talking about a larger bit
Posted 05 July 2006 - 07:01 PM
Posted 05 July 2006 - 08:20 PM
I have even gone as far as to shot it with PB as it cools.
As in PB- Blaster? Won't that ignite?
Posted 05 July 2006 - 08:23 PM
Posted 05 July 2006 - 11:05 PM
One thought on the broken bit is to ruin its temper before trying to drill it.
Posted 06 July 2006 - 12:30 AM
Posted 06 July 2006 - 01:11 AM
where were you before i killed my head
easy outs (will never ever use those things again, of course we all know that).
Posted 06 July 2006 - 05:40 AM
i'm wondering if the bolt was stainless steel or something else that didn't take to my wire feed welder? the weld broke loose very easily. no matter now, i really don't have enough material to work with anymore.
i'll try extracting the remainder of the drill bit first so i can continue drilling. after that not sure....looks like i have a few options. that steel tubing bit for cutting out the bolt sounds crazy...i like it!
Posted 06 July 2006 - 12:40 PM
A little "cross-pollenation" from the world of wood working. It is a common method for removing screws from wood. There they use brass tubing, available in many sizes from hobby stores. Brass might work for you, too, but the aluminum may be a little too hard for the brass. (Though oak and maple can be pretty hard, too.)
that steel tubing bit for cutting out the bolt sounds crazy...i like it!
Posted 06 July 2006 - 07:56 PM
Posted 06 July 2006 - 08:15 PM
Posted 07 July 2006 - 11:59 AM
HSS can have the temper removed by quenching it quickly with water. good thing is you will be removing the temper of both the bit and the bolt and the nature of the High speed steel it will become much more brittle than the bolt only if you get it cold quick but if you try and weld it after good luck it wont stick. I would exhaust all your welding choices first. if not you can take your time and chip the HSS out that has been untempered with a small tool prick punch or center punch. its going to suck no matter how you look at it.
Posted 09 July 2006 - 11:13 AM
titanium and cobalt bits did nothing, noone had diamond tipped bits but i can't imagine they'd last long enough to do anything. this bolt was HARD. i suspect the last time a water pump was done the person replaced the bolt with something else...stainless steel bolt or something because it was hard as crap to drill out. and i bet that's part of the reason it was seized in place as well, material. and i bet that's why my wire feed welder couldn't weld it very well....maybe the material would have been better with higher end welding.
the steel tube cutter was awesome but wouldn't work because by the time i made it the bolt was already flush to the motor. so it was hard to get started perfectly, when i started cutting with it i ran into part of the remaining bolt somewhere and by then the groove was made and i couldn't get it to track without hitting the bolt. i should have used this method first when part of the bolt was still remaining. once it hit the bolt the steel would widdle away immediately, but cut the aluminum great.
i continued drilling and took out a large swath on the "outside" of the bolt. then knocked it until it fell out of that area i drilled out. i had a bad block in my garage so i made sure to drill an enormous hole on top of that hole and check for any coolant passages. luckily there's nothing even close. in the end it left enough threads to put a bolt in but reduced some of the sealing area for the gasket. but all the gasket mating surface bewteen the bolt and coolant is fine, only the very outer edge of the bolt was drilled away. been driving it and so far it's fine.
thanks for the help guys!
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