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Rwd Conversion?


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Is it possible to make my Gl a rwd wagon?

 

yes, if its auto or manual with 4wd and not AWD (if it has a button on the shifter or high/low/fwd lever ) remove front axles,use outer axle stub in the hub (remove or get a used shaft, remove outer joint and just use the outer joint cup/stud) it must be loked in 4wd at all times or it will not go.....not too hard of a job...

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yes, if its auto or manual with 4wd and not AWD (if it has a button on the shifter or high/low/fwd lever ) remove front axles,use outer axle stub in the hub (remove or get a used shaft, remove outer joint and just use the outer joint cup/stud) it must be loked in 4wd at all times or it will not go.....not too hard of a job...

 

yeah, its a manual with 4wd with a high/low/fwd lever

thanks.

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Previous owners photos:

 

johnpic6.jpg

johnpic8.jpg

johnpic7.jpg

 

Video.

 

Sorry didn't want to take this thread the wrong direction.

 

I believe he did weld the center diff, is it possible to switch out this diff to an unwelded one? It's just an idea, I really like the RWD but would love to take this car into a few more, lets say "less paved" roads.

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I would assume you could swap out the center diff to go back to AWD. But you will have problems getting the front driveshafts to go back in. I don't think you will be able to use the old Leg inner cups on this gearbox. Might have to get some WRX shafts and some GL shafts then weld them together. Theres been a couple of threads with info about welding shafts together on thid forum, plus try google.

 

I can see why you want AWD... Subies are ment for handling.. not that rubbish :-p

 

As for the original topic. Yes you can convert to RWD, just need to take those front shafts apart and stick it in 4WD.

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Previous owners photos:

 

 

Sorry didn't want to take this thread the wrong direction.

 

I believe he did weld the center diff, is it possible to switch out this diff to an unwelded one? It's just an idea, I really like the RWD but would love to take this car into a few more, lets say "less paved" roads.

 

THAT IS THE COOLEST GL EVER!!!!!!!!!

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I have another question.

 

I want to drive my car day to day with rwd. in traffic, and on the highway. Want it for drifting, fun, you know, smoke show. But is the gearing different? will I be able to go 70mph on the highway?

 

thanks.

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You won't lose any power in 4WD unless you turn, or have odd tires. In RWD you'll have just as many horses as in FWD.

 

With the RWD conversion you can select from low range RWD or Hi range RWD (normal gearing) Basicly you'll have .7, 1st, 1.7, 2nd, 2.7, 3rd, 3.7, 4th, 4.7 and 5th gears to use. Although I don't suggest switching from low to hi range too offen, you will probably wear out your low range gears.

 

In other words to answer your question.. It will drive normally if you are in 4WD Hi spot on the lever. Remember, your only taking out some shafts, not changing the diff.... although, you could change your diff pretty easy with only RWD as you don't have to play around with the diff in the gearbox.

 

Also, what I have heard form this forum is EA82T power (115hp) won't break anything in the gearbox while running in RWD. Some think more power will, but I don't think anyone knows. Also some have been worried about using a LSD in RWD as it might put a lot of strain on the gearbox. But like before, no one knows for sure yet.

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I ran my '87 wagon in RWD almost 2 years with no ill affects. And I was able to do over 80mph still. OK, 100.(shhh) Also ran with LSD for the last 6 mouths before changing back to 4wd(was getting stuck too often). I did , however, smoke 2nd in that tranny. But I don't think it had to do with running in RWD.

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I feel like a fool for asking. But im a true nooby at this.

 

Is there a guide with some pictures on how to do this. Or discriptions. I think this could be really cool to do with my car since its just a beater.

 

thanks alot.

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It's simple as far as I know (I have never done it before, btw)

I also didn't see a guide, so heres what I think you have to do.

 

Pull the front axles/driveshafts out of your subie. Pull apart the outter CV (not sure how, my manual says don't do it) stick the stub shaft back into the hubs and bolt them up tight. Then stick it in 4WD. I am pretty sure you can just leave the front diff showing it's stubs. Although leaving some inner CV cups on there might make it easier to put front shafts back in because the stubs won't rust.

 

Someone here might have writen something, maybe they'll give some imput.

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Here are some quick simple instructions, a FSM would be much better to follow.

 

Jack up one front side of the car. Take the wheel off and then undo the 36mm axle nut. It's normally bloody tight on there and needs to be, use a 36mm socket and breaker bar to get it off, you might need to stand on the breaker bar. You can also use a big open ended or ring spanner for this. Then take the nut off the bottom of the lower ball joint (it has a split pin, you'll need to get that out first.) The ball joint is the part that attaches the hub to the swingarm, swingarm is the bit that attaches the hub to the engine crossmember. With either a really big lever (5ft long metal bar with a flat end works good) or a ball joint separator, separate the the swingarm from the hub. You should be able to pull the suspension with the hub away from the swingarm towards the front of the car now. But be careful not to stretch a brake line too far. As you pull it away, pull the axle/driveshaft out of the hub, All this is very hard to do and you will hurt yourself no doubt.

Now there is a pin in the inner CV cup that holds the cup to the gearbox. You will need a punch tool the right size to fit in the hole in the cup for this. I use a screw driver with the head cut off for this, don't use a normal flat or philip head screw driver to bash this pin out it's a bad idea. Now that you have the shaft out of the hub and the pin out of the cup, pull on the shaft really hard and it should pop off the gearbox. What might happen is you might pull the inner CV apart which will stretch the boot, so watch out for this. The only thing holding the race in the cup (the race is the bit with the balls on it that goes on the end of the shaft to hold it in the cup making up the Constant Velocity joint) is a big ring running around the outer edge of the cup, this sometimes pulls out. In which case can make it very hard to remove the cup from the gearbox. You might be able to lever it off with something, pretty much make it up as you go along using logic.

Hopefully you will have the drive shaft out in one piece by now. To put it all back together (without doing the RWD conversion) do the reverse of what has been said taking note to these few things. Make sure the pin in the inner CV cup is tight and wont fall out, sometimes getting a new one is the best option here. Make sure you replace all the split pins on all the nuts that had them (lower ball joint nut and axle nut.) Replacing these with new ones is a good idea again.

 

After pulling, bashing, smashing, and all that, it should be good. I haven't put you off of the conversion now have I? It is relatively easy, I got it down to an art with being able to replace a shaft in half an hour by myself if nothing major goes wrong.

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