bratgrl Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 What a nightmare! What is up with this thing you have to turn FOREVER to get it back on the rotor over the new pads. And where do you find the silly tool, or what else can I use instead? My boyfriend has thrown his hands in the air and walked away muttering about fargin bastig Jap piece of s*^t. So, any help will be greatly appreciated. Bobby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUBARU3 Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 Yep...they are a pain! There are special tools, but I just use a big crow bar, (the flat edge). I remove the caliper from the car and place between my feet. If you spray WD40 between the rubber and the piston, it helps it turn. Remember it need to be flush with the caliper body to install again over new pads. Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 I use needle nose pliers, and to be sure, take off the master cylinder cap, it makes it 10 times no, 100 times easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratgrl Posted September 11, 2006 Author Share Posted September 11, 2006 Thanks Todd, Does it seem to turn forever before it gets flush?? The reason I ask is because he (my bf) turned it for quite a while before he got pissed and gave up...Just wondering how much longer it might take. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratgrl Posted September 11, 2006 Author Share Posted September 11, 2006 I use needle nose pliers, and to be sure, take off the master cylinder cap, it makes it 10 times no, 100 times easier. We did take the cap off the master cylinder, but it didn't seem to help much. I'll try the needle nose plier thing too. Anything is worth a try at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 Push and turn, once it "catches" it should go in pretty quickly, i believe you need to spin it clockwise, which also could be your issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratgrl Posted September 11, 2006 Author Share Posted September 11, 2006 Push and turn, once it "catches" it should go in pretty quickly, i believe you need to spin it clockwise, which also could be your issue. Yup, clockwise was the way he was turning it. But...........I don't think he was pushing down on it. The damn Chilton and/or Haynes manuals didn't say anything about pusing down on it.... So....I think I will just leave her sit for tonight, and start again tomorrow after work. So, is there anything special I need to do once I get it back on the rotor? Thanks for all the help so far guys....If i need more, I'll yell...LOUD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecky Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 On my old 77 wagon I used vice-grips on the edge of the piston to get it started, but be careful of the boot. On my 80 brat resto project I went out and bought new roters, pads, and calipers (piston came pushed in). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 There's a good little cheapy tool for that at most every mega parts store.It's a cube that has different configs for multi makes.Use it on the 3/8 drive ratchet. I used to use a pair of duckbill pliers in the primitive days. Yes,like Todd said,spray that dust boot so it doesn't turn with the piston and tear it,and for some more speed cranking it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 Bobby..you sound like me the first time I did the brakes on my Loyale....and the second time..and from now on I will pay someone else to do them . I went out and got the little square tooly thing that moosens talked about..its $9+ at Advanced. Hold it!!! your BF was working on your brat?????????? Geesh!! You lucky girl!! Mine just stands there and watches me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerFahrer Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 Where are you all finding this tool for the brakes? I've asked in several places and no one even knows what I'm talking about... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=sum-w80621 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=sum-w80621 What Paulyburger said...or advanced auto in the tools section for around $9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratgrl Posted September 11, 2006 Author Share Posted September 11, 2006 Where are you all finding this tool for the brakes? I've asked in several places and no one even knows what I'm talking about... I found one at NAPA ($9.99), they have them at Checker ($11.49), Auto Zone, and of course, Summit Racing that Moosens posted the link for. So now, the trick is to get the boyfriend back out there to use the silly tool. Wish me luck...:-p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldDiggerRoo Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 Yeah, that tool is the s*!t, I went thru this today and broke down and bought one, works great, beats the heck out of pliers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 I came to this conclusion as well. beats the heck out of pliers. After years of my faithful duckbill pliers.:-p Autozone for sure.Advanced too,I think that's where I got mine. I only got the picture from Summit,although their price for that brake tool was no higher ($9.99) I really don't shop much with them these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratgrl Posted September 14, 2006 Author Share Posted September 14, 2006 Yup, I tell you what ! Got the tool, whipped the boyfriend into submission:brow: (needed his 6'5", 280 lbs. worth of brute strenth), and got the darn brake pads changed. Silly that a little 10 buck tool can make or "brake" a job. OOOh, she's feeling witty tonight boys, lookin' out..... Anyway, 'preciate all the help, sure I 'll be back for more when I start on the back shoes.... Bobby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted September 14, 2006 Share Posted September 14, 2006 Huzzah!! The rears aren't too bad, but be sure to blead the brakes if the piston comes out of the cylinder, i forgot that once and had a heck of a time stopping going down Queen anne hill, if you're from Seattle you know what i'm talking about. Also, be sure to adjust them, as they don't self adjust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratgrl Posted September 14, 2006 Author Share Posted September 14, 2006 Speaking of weird things. I've driven the BRAT to work for 2 days now, and today on the way home, it wacked out on me. The freeway was full of stupid people all in an all fired hurry to get AHEAD OF JUST ONE MORE FRIGGIN' CAR:mad: , and some asshat dove in the space between me and the car in front of me, so I had to mash the brakes, and silly thing pulled to the left really hard, and the brake pedal went almost to the floor. I tell ya, it scared the begeezuz out of me. So, I said to myself, hmmm, better get out of this messy traffic and hit the back roads for home in case the brakes fail completely. So I bailed off the freeway, and after that, no more problems. So, what's up with that? Anyone else had that happen to them? Did I not do something I should have on the brake job, or did I do something wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted September 14, 2006 Share Posted September 14, 2006 Sounds to me like you have air in the brake lines and need to bleed them or check for leaks or both. OR maybe you forgot to top off the master cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratgrl Posted September 14, 2006 Author Share Posted September 14, 2006 Sounds to me like you have air in the brake lines and need to bleed them or check for leaks or both. OR maybe you forgot to top off the master cylinder. Master cylinder full, no leaks. I'll try bleeding them again after I do the back brakes this weekend. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotrod For Lifw Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 Whats this about spinning the piston on the front brakes to get it to go back in. i have an 81 subaru brat gl and ive done the pads twice now. all i did was break a c clamp each time and had put the old pad over the piston and beat it with a hammer till it was in flush. did i mess some stuff up dong that? thanks matt:banghead: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyB0y Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 Ahh the wonderfull world of frozen calipers I only want to add one suggestion I would extreamly carefull about what you use to loosen up the piston. Break fluid is a very specialized thing, and if you use the wrong thing to loosen up the piston, it can ruin the rubber seal . I can't say that WD-40 is a bad thing, as I have always just used a brush and a little break fluid to loosen things up, and yes sometimes a Press and I second what has been said about your breaks being spongy. I would get a "mighty vac" which is a special tool for bleeding breaks, they shouldn't cost more than maybe $15-$30 and mine has lasted for over 15 years. This tool uses vacuume to pull break fluid into a small "cup" and will prevent any air getting into the system while bleeding the breaks. You can definatly do it with one person pushing the pedal and the other opening and closing the bleed valve, but the mighty vac can turn a 2hr job into a 30 - 40 min job. I usually buy extra break fluid, and make sure that I see nothing but brand-new fluid comming through b4 I finish. It's amazing how much air you get out of a system that appears to be just fine with good presure. Good luck, and let us know how it works out for ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratgrl Posted September 22, 2006 Author Share Posted September 22, 2006 Whats this about spinning the piston on the front brakes to get it to go back in. i have an 81 subaru brat gl and ive done the pads twice now. all i did was break a c clamp each time and had put the old pad over the piston and beat it with a hammer till it was in flush. did i mess some stuff up dong that? thanks matt:banghead: Everything I read about doing brakes on my Brat, said to NOT pound or push on that piston because it could damage the threads on the screw in thingy part. (thingy=very technical term I'm sure;) ) I bought a tool at NAPA for 10 bucks and it was pretty easy to turn that piston back in with it. It is simply called a 'brake caliper piston tool". I'm not sure how you could check yours to make sure they aren't doinked, but you probly should. I'm no expert by any means, but I'm sure the guys that are would agree... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grizz3000 Posted November 24, 2006 Share Posted November 24, 2006 I just got done putting the caliper back on after a wheel bearing/tie rod/ball joint project. I was mystified at the caliper piston too! I C-clamped it until I was blue in the face. I tried turning it with various pliers and objects (I live 30 miles from the nearest auto store). Then, there at my feet was the answer! My tie rod fork and a large pair of vise-grips. 1. Swing the caliper up and hung it up with some wire to the springs 2. Brace the caliper to the wheel wheel with a scrap of 2x4 so the caliper won't slide off when you push in the piston. 3. Put the vise-grips on the end of the tie rod fork 4. Place the tie rod fork prongs into the piston notches. 5. Push in and slowly turn the piston clockwise. WORKED GREAT! Granted, you have to go slow and methodical so that you don't damage the piston or piston boot. Take your time. The pistion goes in nice and smooth. Hope this helps the next baffled shade tree mechanic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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