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Where can i find new cam case O-rings for my EA82 on Rockauto.com?


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20 replies to this topic

#1 TheLoyale

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Posted 16 September 2007 - 01:05 AM

Ok since i havent done the T-belts nor the Micky mouse seal and pump i've heard that i should also do the Cam case O-rings too. So can some one tell me i can get them on the net? I've tryed Thepartsbin.com but there site is out of service. And i can't find them on rockauto.com.

And also can someone help me out on info. I don't know what to do once i get in there. So i've heard theres 8 bolts for the cam case. So what is the easyest way to do that at the same time i'm doing the T-belts and O-pump.

See my dad is going to help me but doesnt know anything about Subaru's. Plus he feel's tired and not to willing to get it all done. But i really need too!! So any info is a big help:)

Thank's Tom.................

#2 Bucky92

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Posted 16 September 2007 - 04:26 AM

I got my whole reseal kit at Advanced Auto ( cept for the oil pump rebuild kit..that came from a dealer).
Here is some reading for you for the whole thing:

http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=50768

http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=55920

http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=69644

http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=55844

#3 LuvScooby

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Posted 16 September 2007 - 02:16 PM

Hey Tom! I just went to 'thepartsbin.com' this morning, so you might try again. Maybe it will work.

http://www.thepartsb...gory=valvetrain

See if the link above will take you there. I'm no computer guru, so I may have done it wrong. If it doesn't work, go to the site, enter you vehicle info, scroll down to 'engine mechanical', and then look under 'valve train'. That's where they are. I just bought 2 myself. Be aware....you have to order two(2)....they don't come that way. Just don't want you to get only one in the mail...that kinda sux.

I think you definately want to do this when you do the t-belts and o-pump. You have to have the belts off and cam pulleys and inner belts covers, so this is the best time to do it. There are 8 housing bolts...4 are outside of the case(2 on top...2 on bottom) and 4 are inside the case(2 on top...2 on bottom). The 4 in the case are near the outter edges, and kinda close to the corners. The case shouldda been assembled with some type of sealer on the 'head' side, and may be hard to get loose. If you back your bolts most of the way out, you can 'tap' the case with a 2x4 and maybe even have to hit the 2x4 with a 'Thor' sized hammer. When you see it start to loosen, you can reach in carefully and pull out the rockers before they fall out.(and they will). If you are able to pull each one out, you can mark them and put them back where they came from. If they do fall out, I don't really think it matters...its just best if ya get em back where they were. Well, that's enough to get you dirty, and make your back sore...haha...good luck...just take your time. Oh yeah...watch out for the side of the cam lobes....they are very, very sharp....I got a pretty good cut from one of them!!

#4 grossgary

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Posted 16 September 2007 - 08:08 PM

check thepartsbin again, it'll probably come up. subaru dealers all have them too, got a local dealer? call the closest one and have them mail it to you. they typically run nearly identical in price. $2.19 is a common dealer price for them.

I got my whole reseal kit at Advanced Auto

the reseal kits don't always come with the cam carrier o-rings. i've bought some that have them and some that don't, i've had more of the latter for XT6's.

#5 TheLoyale

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Posted 16 September 2007 - 08:39 PM

Alright i'll try Thepartsbin again. And Thank's Connie and LuvScooby, God i have a so many questions! Like all the live pics i see are of the engine is out, Do you really need to do that?:eek: That's scary. And can i do this with out messing up the timing? And is this as hard as it looks?? I'm kinda scard in a way. And i very greatful to Miles fox!! I have his T-belt page and Oil pump page printed out for awhile.

I do know that i should Only use OEM seals. So thanx for the help, I hope this will go smothly when ever we do it:grin:

L8R

#6 TheLoyale

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Posted 16 September 2007 - 08:43 PM

Yep it works! Ok heres the page, What seal do i need? The real thin one? And they don't have OEM parts? is that ok? Thank's:) I do have a Subaru dealer about 5min away. I should go there hey.
http://www.thepartsb...gory=valvetrain

#7 yzerman19

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Posted 16 September 2007 - 10:46 PM

Most cam seal kits come with both the thin (inner) and the main (outer). No reason not to do both anyway while you have it out.

I just did a full engine gasket set on my 90 EA82. My inner cam seals where as brittle as a cracker.

Oh, a glob of grease (top of lifters/rocker 'hole') will hold those rockers on just long enough for you to get that cam box back on. Jacking the car up on the side your doing helps too.

I had it easy since my engine was able to spin on the engine stand. However I rememberrd the above hint from previous jobs.

Good luck.

#8 daeron

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Posted 17 September 2007 - 03:09 AM

get the smaller one, the first on the page you linked; Ishino brand. It used to say it, but that IS the OEM part.

#9 TheLoyale

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Posted 17 September 2007 - 01:14 PM

Alright thanx alot! I will buy both then, And do you think i will have to take the Radiator out? Hope not i don't really want to touch those aluminum lines.:eek:

#10 daeron

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Posted 17 September 2007 - 02:35 PM

if taking the radiator out intimidates you, then you need to find someone else to work on your engine.

For most of us, taking the radiator out is a five minute affair that we do simply for more room to work.

#11 mikeshoup

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Posted 17 September 2007 - 02:54 PM

if taking the radiator out intimidates you, then you need to find someone else to work on your engine.

+1

This will involve a lot of work to remove the cam carriers. You don't need to remove the radiator, but it helps. You'll need to remove the timing belts, which means tearing apart the whole front of the engine. While your there, may as well reseal the oil pump and replace the water pump, etc.

You'll need to remove the valve covers, and then pop the cam carriers off. You'll have the rockers fall off, so catch those and remember where they went.

All of this is much more difficult than simply removing the radiator.

#12 TheLoyale

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Posted 18 September 2007 - 05:10 PM

Hey, No taking the radiator out does not really intimidate me. I'm just thinking of all the other stuff too. Wow you have to take the Valve covers off too, So how can i do that on the drivers side? Can i jack the motor up a little bit?

My basic plan was to do the Oil pump and seal and the T-belts, but now since i've heard about all this other stuff i should do i'm getting a little worryed in a way. So where does that thick O-ring go? Behind the cam on both sides? And then the skiny O-ring go's in front of the cam's.

How long do you think it will take? Two weekends? And if i have to take the Valve covers off. Is there a seal/gasget i have to replace as well?

And one more thing i need to ask is, If i take out the cam's is there a serton way the lobes go back in? And will thins mess up the Timing?

#13 daeron

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Posted 19 September 2007 - 12:05 AM

havent you downloaded the FSM pdfs by now?

if not, www.ch601.org/engines.htm

find ea82 parts 1 and 2, but most of the procedure you need should be in part 1.

The driver side valve covers are where the ratcheting 10 mm box wrench comes into play.. a set is available from harbor freight cheap, like 10-15 bucks. You also need to take the cam cases off; what you picture as the cylinder head is made of three "slices:" the cylinder head proper; the cam case, and the valve cover. The cylinder heads will stay in place (obviously) but the valve covers and cam cases have to come off.

This would be an EXCELLENT time to degrease your engine, incidentally. Just cover any holes, and the tops of the cylinder heads, when you do it; Maybe BEST to wait until the valve covers are back on and the dizzy in, but before putting together the intake, timing belts etc.

The best way to install the cam case is with the cams oriented so that no lobe is pressing on a valve at all; this winds up with the keyways up or down, IIRC.. anyhow, it isnt hard to find. There is one spot in cam rotation where it has a "breathing space" and no lobes are putting pressure on any rocker arm, and as I said it is easy to find.

#14 grossgary

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Posted 19 September 2007 - 12:44 AM

i'm wondering if there is a confusion about which orings you need to replace here? do you REALLY NEED to replace these cam carrier orings? keep in mind there are different but similarly named parts talked about on the boards, there are cam carrier o-rings (also called cam case orings - this is the metal reinforced jobs that everyone is talking about in this thread) and then there's the cam orings. it is my guess that you really only need to replace the cam cap orings which are very, very simple and don't require all the valve cover, cam carrier, rocker arm removal stuff.....more details:

the cam carrier o-rings you mentioned in the title thread are a heavy amount of work. BUT - they aren't necessary to replace for no reason. do you have a reason for replacing them? are they known to be bad? are you having issues with the car? by this time, they are often old and it isn't a bad idea to replace them, but with all the labor involved it's not typical to do all of that to just replace them either unless they are causing a problem. most people replace them when doing something else...valve work, cam work, headgasket replacement. i have never pulled the cams just to replace these o-rings, it's always when the cams have to come off for something else.
it is easily done in a day by yourself though, so it's not nearly as in depth as a headgasket job. get a 10mm ratcheting wrench for the valve covers...save yourself a bunch of time and sanity. there's really no big deal removing and replacing the cams. just make sure the distributor STAYS PUT. don't pull it out of the cam housing or if you do mark it EXACTLY right, take a picture if you have to how it's oriented with respect to the cam position. and when you pull the cam carrier, leave it as is, it will "end up" in it's resting position at the easiest place to also reinstall. it will also go there as you push it in place when reinstalling, not hard but a bit trickier. just do your best to not turn it or move it out of it's relaxed position which it will be in when you remove it.

now...what i think you're looking for, but this is just a guess, is the cam o-ring that resides behind the cam seal. here's what is often mentioned on the boards that should be replaced with each timing belt. you see there's a cam seal that's right behind the cam sprocket. with the timing belt off this seal is easily replaced. remove 3 10mm bolts holding the cam sprocket on and you have access to the cam seal. but..you shouldnt' just replace that, you should also replace the cam cap o-ring that is right behind it. just to the outside of the cam seal you'll see 2 10mm bolts (3 for XT6's) holding the cam cap to the cam carrier. remove those 2 10mm bolts and replace the o-ring underneath. very easy, very simple, only takes a few minutes. this is mentioned over and over again because it is easy to make the mistake of just replacing the cam seals ONLY....but you want to replace both. thepartsbin.com sells a cam seal KIT that comes with both - the cam seal and the cam cap oring. buy two of those kits for a timing belt job.

it is my guess that maybe you're just confused and think you need to replace the cam carrier oring......which is far more work and maybe unnecessary, when really you just need to replace the cam cap oring...very, very little work and often replaced with the timing belts.

#15 TheLoyale

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Posted 19 September 2007 - 11:36 PM

Yes yes!! Thank you soooo much! I guess there was a little confusion about the two. Ok that sound's like such an easy job since i'm doing the T-belts and Oil pump/seal. And no the Cam carrier seals are no cusing any probelms, So i am SO happy you told me:) I will buy 2 of those Cam seal kits and do that. My dad will be happer then trying to do all the other stuff. And i do have a 10mm ratchet wrench. It really is a great help with eveything.

I'm so happy knowing that i don't have to do the other seals. Thanx alot:grin: And i'll print out what you said about the Cam carrior seals incase i ever need to do that. (Long time from now)

#16 TheLoyale

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Posted 19 September 2007 - 11:41 PM

Hey Gary, Just to make sure. This is the seal kit you talking about right? I know i need 2.
http://www.thepartsb...mshaft_seal_kit

#17 TheLoyale

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Posted 22 September 2007 - 01:10 AM

Ok one more thing just to be + Are these the 2 seal's i need to replace? It looks easy.:) Just let me know when you have a sec.... Thanx:grin:
Posted Image

#18 TheLoyale

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Posted 23 September 2007 - 01:47 PM

Does anyone read/post on this thread any more?
I'm looking for that ansur from my last post:)


#19 daeron

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Posted 23 September 2007 - 05:14 PM

thats it, as far as i know.

#20 TheLoyale

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Posted 23 September 2007 - 06:37 PM

Haha thank's alot bro.:grin:

#21 Andy FitzGibbon

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Posted 25 September 2007 - 07:40 PM

Autozone sells those kits for $9.99
Andy




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