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Vacuum hoses will be the death of me! :(
Posted 24 February 2008 - 12:11 AM
Posted 24 February 2008 - 12:22 AM
Vacuum is messy thing to work with. Remember you are not trying to keep vacuum in, you are trying to keep the atmosphere OUT.
Any place you have a leak, atmosphere is leaking INTO the system. You can trace those leaks using carb cleaner, brake cleaner, or other evaporating, flammable, aerosol product. Spray around and when the engine changes pitch you will have found a leak.
Shaking at idle could be many things. Bad valve timing, faulty ignition components, poor idle mixture settings.... etc. Vacuum leaks may have nothing to do with it.
Start at the beginning. Put a vacuum gauge on the manifold and see what the needle does (both it's motions, and it's readings are important). Pull each plug wire one at a time and check that each cylinder is firing - it will run worse when you pull a wire for a cylinder that is working.
If you replaced any of the vacuum hoses, make sure you chop the old ones into 1/4" pieces to verify that you didn't miss any "orifice" plugs.
Posted 24 February 2008 - 12:31 AM
Posted 24 February 2008 - 12:57 AM
Marine supply places are good too - they usually sell a variety of heavy duty stainless hose clamps that are of superior quality. Home Cheapo has some of these too in the plumbing department.
And actually, the tiny wire hose clamps originally installed by Subaru are quite good. They are difficult to work with but if you clean up the threads and are careful about how you install them they actually can put down some serious clamping force without causing damage to the hose. They will start to distort if you get them too tight which is not a problem for the German one's I use. You can't easily make them tight enough to break. I need to find a bulk supplier of them so I can stock up my garage.
Posted 24 February 2008 - 01:16 AM
I have just about had it with vacuum leaks. my motor shakes, my 4wd wont work, i replaced most all of the hoses but the Loyale is just pissing me off more.
Have you tried moving the 4wd cable/lever on the side of the transmission by hand? lubricated it? vacuum may not be the issue.
Posted 24 February 2008 - 01:35 AM
Just to bring the thought to the table. Maybe it is best to determine what you are tightening instead of throwing clamps at the problem. What messed up in the first place?
Posted 24 February 2008 - 02:16 AM
I had not had the idea to try out the lever its self on the side of the tranny like GLOYALE stated so i will give that a try Monday. That may very well be the problem. While im looking at it maybe there is a way to make it engage independent of the vacuum system by a cable? Just a thought. Anyone else tried it. Hope this info helps in helping you help me haha :-p
Posted 24 February 2008 - 02:39 AM
Posted 24 February 2008 - 02:52 AM
Might want to check some of them clamps you put on. Might have put one on too tight and caused it to rip a hole in the line.
Ok i will check, I was more worried about crushing what the hose was connecting to than i was about tearing hose.
Posted 24 February 2008 - 09:19 AM
The vacuum source for the 4wd shifting and the heater
vent control come from the white plastic cylinder
on the shelf behind the pass. side strut tower.
Might want to look there first if the heater outputs are stuck
Posted 24 February 2008 - 09:54 AM
when the button is pressed, it turns on the solenoid that actuates a vacuum diaphragm on the transmission in one direction. when you unpress the button, it turns on the other solenoid drawing vacuum on the other side of the diaphragm and disengaging it.
so suppose the button on the shifter is bad?
if so, you can engage 4wd simply by reversing the vacuum lines at the solenoids, essentially making the switch work backwards.(off is on and on is off for 4wd) but you will have to switch them again to disengage the 4wd(with the same bad switch)
Posted 24 February 2008 - 12:16 PM
the switch is single throw double pole. there is no off position on the button
Actually it's a Single Pole/ Double throw.
Meaning there is one source voltage(single pole), routed to one of two ways(double throw), depending on the switch position.
Double pole/single throw would have 2 seperated circuits(double pole) that are both connected or disconnected at the same time(single throw)
Hardtail, Do you have a hand held vacuum pump? You should test the Cable diaphrahm to make sure it holds vacuum.
Also, you're light flickering could be a result of the switch on the very rear end of the transmission. If it's on the fritz, the light will flicker or not work, even if you are actually engaged in 4wd. It i esentially as button screwed into the rear of the trans. When the 4wd collar moves to engage gears inside, it pushe the plunger on the button, to indicate 4wd on the dash. You can remove it by simply unscrewing it. should have continuity when it's button is pushed
Posted 24 February 2008 - 08:15 PM
Posted 24 February 2008 - 08:17 PM
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