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Did you bleed A LOT? when the systems are opened that far up the line they can take 2-3 large bottles to bleed - that's probably on ABS systems but nonetheless same thing still applies, once the entire system is opened up it can take a looong time to bleed it all out. I can just replace one caliper or a hose close to a caliper and in those cases air is still close to the bleeder screw and easy to bleed - i've even opened and just bled one corner before if you can swap it quick enough and keep it from draining. it's more difficult when you introduce air that far up, have a leak further up, or replace an MC - it's going to take a lot more than a routine bleed to get it all out. bleed, bleed more than you think necessary and then probably some more. Also - look for leaks above the gas tank...not sure how, but that's where they leak and cause pedal issues. they leak just enough to cause issues but aren't yet spurting/spraying gobs of fluid. there is no discernible "holes" or "leaks" - the metal lines get all flakey with multiple layers of scaled rust - the fluid just gradually pushes out of that without having a hole or significant leak. so it's just enough to loose pressure but not enough to leak enough that it looses fluid fast or drips on the ground. Anyway - i've seen it before, if it's got any rust try to check above the gas tank if possible.

I have had two of them apart. One was the standard 1988 EA82 D/R and the other was a 1987 RX D/R with Full time 4WD and center diff lock. Both of them got bearings and all the seals, the D/R got 1st and 2nd gear synchros too. Just go slow and follow the factory service manual procedures to a "T". There used to be some really good right-ups on here with pictures. Putting the tail section back on and lining up the internal linkage takes some patience as does setting the backlash properly. I have lots of good pictures of mine apart if you need them.

some of the images posted above was because of the glove compartment detaching from the dash outline itself, causing a gap.. it's been fixed now, but thank the cheapness of the glove compartment for this thread. you should have seen some of the old items i found in there not Subaru related, receipts to many places like Kroger (which haven't existed in San Antonio since the late 80's), Albertson's, HandyAndy, Kmart, it was really weird...

No. Get a weatherpack connector kit and make your own.

A poorly calibrated, sticking or failing brake light sensor can also play with ABS/traction control when braking and set off codes. Have you checked the codes when this happens? Clearly a code will be detected when there's a fault like this so that's where they need to analyze when you get to the shop. It will be fairly easy to figure out the issues when they check the codes. Good luck and let us know what you find out.

Check the tires and pressure are up to specs. I once had a low tire cause the ABS to activate during braking. As I recall there's a self check when you first start up the MY95 ( and similar years) for the ABS. The pump runs briefly which is normal.