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Yes, the whole point of a K&N is to let little rocks in so they swirl in the vortex and clean the intake walls. Cleaning it just removes some of those helpful little rocks.

Gasoline and a match works really well for cleaning oiled air filters. Step two is to buy a proper synthetic paper element panel filter. GD

Agreed, don't touch, wipe, poke or prod the sensors. Just spray them (the MAF is up inside the little tube) and let them air dry. I was a little quick to reinstall mine and while it did end up running fine, it stumbled and misfired enough to concern me when I first started the engine, but the idle quickly smoothed out.

Clean the MAF using CRC Airflow Meter Cleaner. Be sure to clean the temp sensor AND the MAF sensor, they are both in the air flow meter.

Steven at Inferno Fabrications can and has done lots of EA headers. Including EA82T. GD

Necro-bump of a 13 year old thread!

fill those cans with sand. Liquid sloshes around and can be dangerous. Tube sand is 60 lbs and 5 bucks or so. so less than 30 bucks you can do sand, have a traction material, and if not needed, throw it in the side yard or spread it on the grass when you are done with the winter. Sometimes we try and reinvent something that already works pretty well.

That's fine, not all of us can be right ALL of the time GD . The fact of the matter is this: If your suspension coil binds before the body/chassis hits the ground, you'll be in for a WILD ride. The bump stops are there (on damn near every style of "modern" suspension) specifically because a harsh bottoming or binding event can instantly upset a vehicle's chassis. Also, these little foam guys CAN and DO take all sorts of compression, that's why they get so beat up (hint, it's not due to UV degradation...) None of them take 3,000 lbs. because your car would have to pancake flat for that to happen (and the body should touch down first anyway). They act like bumpers at a bowling ally, they don't control suspension movement, they gradually absorb compression and prevent bottoming out. It's not a half-assed attempt on some engineer's part, this has been an accepted solution for suspension tuning for decades. Imagine you dive into a corner hard and are near the limit of adhesion. You hit a BIG bump. Without a bump stop (or with insufficient suspension travel in compression) either the strut will bottom out or the spring coils will bind. When this happens you no longer have a bouncy, absorbent suspension; you now have a solid rod connecting the wheel to your chassis. This is essentially an infinite spring rate. In our imaginary scenario, you will instantly lose traction, understeering right off the road or into a guard rail. Now, lets assume there is a bump stop. Same scenario. Hit the BIG bump, but instead of an instant, infinite spring rate, we have a gentle ramping up of the spring rate, then that absorbed energy helps to push the strut back, away from the bottom of its travel. Instead of completely losing traction in a split second, you have a gradual loss of traction that is smaller, and controllable. I'll say it again though: You do not NEED bump stops to drive down the road. But they are so damn cheap and serve such an important enough purpose, why not just replace them?