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Probably valve covers. Like 3 bolts and they pop off. Get a new set and replace the inner o-rings too. If it has mismatched tires, make sure to check if the fuse is in the FWD slot or not if that year/model has one. Don't assume the dash light works for forced FWD. Once got a car that someone dabbed silicone onto the CEL LED...... If the fuse is in there, then you wouldn't notice torque bind. $2k for a car for your kid, is your call. As long as it's not falling on the unibody, it might be a good car for him.

making more complicated than it needs to be. Your procedure will make one move thorough double the rotations. Subaru heads have a spot where neither cam is trying to open any valves.. That's the point to use. As the OP suspected, the with Subaru heads the point to adjust valves is when the ALL valves aree closed. There is a point int eh rotation for a subaru head wher hits happens. Just make sure the valve are NOT being pressed by the cam lobes. That's the pint to adjust.

Yes, this ^ is totally unacceptable ...hopefully there was no golf cart on patrol. Awesome!!! Excellent trip report, pics, and insane whoops. My WRX is that beer can since the previous trip, but I've nearly polished that turd... more soon! Cheers, K

The clutch is spring loaded. The pressure plate tension is released by the clutch. It's unlikely that the hyd system would cause the slipping. Make sure you check the rear diff and make sure the axles are fully inserted. I've had a couple of them where one axle had popped out about a 1/2" and all the power to the rear was not going to the wheels. Felt just like a slipping clutch. Two other Mechanics told the previous owner the car needed a clutch. Putting the axle back in fixed the problem.