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Doesn't matter now but I've cut them off my personal cars and installed regular fuel hose.

Box for rear trailing arms is still very close to the wheel. Might even rub just from the weld bead sticking out when finished if I just welded them as is. I plan on tweaking those for a little more clearance before welding. Shortened up the links on the driver's side by 1/8". While I was at it I refit the tube to the bottoms of the bushing sleeves rather than centered for some shock clearance. Not ideal structurally in tension/compression but that's almost certainly not how they'll fail. With the shorter links the inner CV still has a little room before it bottoms out at full droop. We also put a tire on and stuffed it up as high as it'd go with the jack and I still think rolling the fender and removing the rear bumper cover will be enough. High/low and lock/unlock shift levers/linkage tacked up: Seems like most of the compliance is in the trans mount so it should be stiff enough. There is an alarming amount of slop in those in line ball joints though, I need to find some better version of those or replace them with rod ends. B was able to shift high/low and lock/unlock while I turned the driveshaft. High/low is pretty easy, lock/unlock takes considerably more effort and turning. This is the same experience as in the Outback with the cables but is definitely easier with the levers. They have about a 2:1 mechanical advantage and you can actually push or pull hard with one hand. Plan on bending the right side lever to the right. Plan on just poking holes in that rubber boot for them to pass through, they don't move much at that level. B did say the left lever (hi/lo, requires more travel) does get close to the dash in low but that can be adjusted.

Well, from what I know the build log for Angus' BRAT conversion is over on the Openinverter forums. I know for sure that you don't need a clutch, since neither of us use one, instead there's a steel coupler which mates onto the output shaft of the motor and uses the spline from the clutch to mate into the transmission, so the major sticking point here would be the strength of the weld holding the clutch spline onto the coupler. As to the end weight, I can't speak to how much that one weighs, but due to the differences between the two builds that feels immaterial. Really the only thing we share between the two builds is the motor, he's using battery modules from a Tesla Model 3 whereas I'm reusing the pack I pulled from the Leaf, and I'm pretty sure he's using different control electronics to send commands to the motor. But from my own research and some guesstimation, I would say that his conversion probably weighs somewhere in the range of 2500-2600lbs, and once it's done mine should be pretty similar, since the car's base weight is slightly lighter but my battery is a bit heavier as well.