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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/30/23 in all areas

  1. Looks awkward but simple, seats are cumbersome to maneuver in and out of the cabin but otherwise it’s not too bad. The seat rail ends/bolt down tabs want to stick out and catch paint if you’re no careful. Hopefully you’re not knocking that out with a foot of incoming snow. yours are probably fine I don’t see this too often, but it’s annoying if it does and you have more rust up there than me so just in case:I’ve had a few that the seat bolts are rusted and have had seat bolt threads strip before. If they feel tight - work them back and forth to slowly break the rust up. If it’s really tight take a break once the bolt turns two or so times. The tighter it is the less turns per break. Go work on something else and let the metal cool down. The threads strip and bolts sheer largely due to heat build up. Heat increases plastic deformation of metals and it also causes things to expand - making the problem worse. Heat will strip a bolt well before the use actually will. let it cool. Spraying lubricant is a lubricant and helps conduct heat away from the point of friction too.
  2. You need to bleed the lines closest to the master cylinder first(front calipers), then the rear. If you do the opposite you may siphon air from the short un-bled lines where the lines connect at tees, hill holder, etc. Bleed M/C with lines just loosened a little until fluid pushes out, then tighten them up. Put an oil pan underneath to catch the mess. Hose it down with brake cleaner afterward. Bleed order is Left front, then right rear. Right front, then left rear. Get a one man bleeder kit with a check valve in it. Put the valve end in a small plastic bottle with a little brake fluid in it to stop air from going back up the bleeder hose. Pump slowly with full strokes of the pedal 6 to 8 times at each wheel then check the reservoir after closing the bleeder. Not trying to discount what you know of bleeding brakes, just repeating what has worked for me since the 70's when working alone. Used to be a NIASE dealer mechanic. Good luck!
  3. Bennie, that carb kit # 254556737560, is on sale right now out of Ontario Calif. for $33.99 USD and ships for $23.40 USD. MUCH less than $200 AU. Even if it isn't the quality kit you get over there, at least you'd have something to work with if needed.

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