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Here's how I set up my valve. I planned to get a proper piece of EPDM hose and a fitting but there's nothing more permanent than a functional temporary fix. The stock hose does fit on the "rear" fitting, but I also used a tight hose clamp. I soldered the wires to the terminals in the polarity you see in the photos. Red (with the blue heat shrink) is +. In the engine harness connector, the top terminal closest to the connector hook (latch thingy) is -, the bottom vertical terminal is +. :]

Replace them with the MLS units. I can’t remember the part numbers but others will. They’re from the EJ25 STi WRX model. You’ll thank yourself for going to that effort later. If you don’t, they’ll end up doing the external coolant leak thing. If money is tight, drop it in and run it. Over time you’ll see the leak develop. It won’t damage anything, especially if you regularly check the coolant levels. Cheers Bennie

I should add, it's just my *theory* that not having a reservoir makes them crack. I've had a lot of problems with them cracking, and here's what I decided: With no reservoir, the radiator always runs with a bubble on top. Even if you fill it to the brim, when it warms up and expands, it'll push coolant out the cap, and pull air in when it cools. At idle, the bubble is at the top of the radiator. Coolant entering the upper hose at low velocity drops by gravity and slowly flows through the tubes, with the top couple tubes filled with air from the bubble. At throttle, the high-velocity coolant against the resistance of the tubes causes coolant to flow through all the tubes, including the top ones, and the bubble is pushed to the outlet side of the radiator. You can see this if you look down the cap with it running - the level drops when you give it any throttle. So, at throttle, the top tubes are filled with hot coolant, and are hot. As soon as you go to idle, and the bubble moves into them, the airflow over the radiator instantly cools the tubes down to air temperature. Then you give it throttle, and they get filled back with hot coolant, and instantly heat to coolant temperature. Then you go back to idle, and they drain and instantly cool to air temperature. And paper thin aluminum can only take so many 100 degree temperature cycles every few seconds before cracking... especially since when they cool, they contract against the force of the rest of the hot tubes expanding the tanks apart... I couldn't find any other claims about this when I extensively searched for info on them cracking - just lots of other people having mysterious cracks in fairly new expensive radiators. So, with no other competing theories, I'll go with the one I came up with!

Pressure switch is forward just off the condenser in the HP line. I unplugged it, jumped it the plug and the AC worked. Plugged it back in and the AC works. A little corrosion cleaned maybe. It's so tight up front you can't see the connector very well. We'll see what happens! Thanks to all.

First joined this forum 20 years ago when I had an 84 hatch that I had bought sitting in a field while I was in high school. At the time, I had a 91 Legacy. Drove that till it blew up and then picked up an 83 Brat that I found for sale on here and picked up another 83 for parts. Had a 2000 RS coupe in college, then a 95 Outback beater. Sold the RS and got an 05 STi, sold it in 2016 and got back into an 04 WRX in 2022. Picked up this 84 GL 2 weeks ago as if I needed another project but I am not poor on vehicles - also have a 2019 Tundra and 2015 Rav4. This thing was in surprisingly good shape for being an east TN car. With that, it does have its issues. I have on my work bench a new rear wheel bearing to install, hatch struts, will need a radiator as I see it dripping. I am also trying to nail down why the blower isn't working. I pulled the fan resistor switch last night and it showed continuity but I need to see exactly what ohm values it's supposed to have. Nothing like reading 20+ year old USMB posts. We still like pics on here?

I've been searching pretty hard over the last few years for a good radiator, and the only option in the US seems to be roughly four varieties of chinese all-aluminum models. There's a company in .au that supposedly still makes a copper-brass one, but they explicitly state they will not ship overseas, and did not respond to an email asking if they'd consider changing that policy. You can get the aluminum ones on ebay, or at o'reilly if you want a warranty. Quality... varies. The o'reilly one isn't terrible. The $90 ebay special is pretty ugly. I haven't tried the "Fenix" one for a higher price. There's a couple middle-priced ebay options. When searching, look for "leone" and "brumby" radiators, since that's what the rest of the word labels them as. If you do find a copper-brass one that's actually available in the US, let me know!

Oh - you meant the ignition switch. Okay, no argument there at all. Mechanical contacts like that degrade over time, and (as I proved years ago) that's exactly the reason for you not being able to program for your key fobs anymore. But "the ignition" refers to the whole system, and that would have been a bizarre claim, kind of like "my windshield wore out". "Cracked? Pitted?" "No, just wore out, stopped working, can't see through it anymore."

Wow - this has been dogging you for more than a year? Awful. This is not going to be easy. It's easy to say "look for a bad ground". It's quite another to find it. Get the drawings for your exact model and year, because here minor variations count. Then trace every ground and +12V wire, and make sure that both the wire itself and the terminations are good. Here's the example I usually cite: I had a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee before moving to Subarus. Ran great for years, until the high-miles motor blew (rod through block). Then it sat over a winter until I dropped in a new engine in the spring. When I started it up again, all of the electricals were wonked out. Turning on the stereo affected the wipers. The lights affected the heater. All of this unrelated stuff was suddenly functionally coupled in the most chaotic manner. I bought the big thick book for that year's model from Chrysler and started tracing wires. Eventually I found that where the big harness passed through the firewall (in the most inaccessible spot, of course), a tiny pinhole in the insulation on a +12V wire had let in enough moisture over time to corrode clean through the copper conductor. Absent that supply line, a bunch of stuff found alternate supply paths - through other things, the result being that both were semi-powered and acted nuts. The lesson is that because the effects were so random and crazy, it would have been a waste of time to try to think them through - you just have to check every wire that can have that kind of global effect, what we call "exhaustive search". The other example is a simpler one: After I had the motor out of my (first) '99 Outback for I-forget-what, the AT got all kooky - the shift points were all over the place. Everything else in the car was fine. Turned out that I hadn't tightened down that big, most-obvious-ground-in-car ground lug on top of the intake. Tightened it and all was well. So the effects can can be globally insane, or just localized to some weird thing.

Proud owner of a new '83 GL just checking into the forums.

I had to replace my EGR solenoid as well. I used an AISIN VST-026. The fittings for the hoses is a bit too small, but you could adapt it by wrapping electrical tape around the solenoid fitting or get a smaller piece of tube and a fitting to adapt it to the stock hose. The AISIN part isn't cheap, but I've heard they outlast the Toyota's they're made for, and that's not too shabby. I'll post a photo later tonight to show the wiring. It's + & - even I can do it.

don’t forget to swap in the “K frame” that all mounts from, it’s got the front upper mount for the rear diff Cheers Bennie

Got the rear wheel bearing changed today. Freddo was right, they're like a boat trailer. I got one of the hatch struts replaced but the previous owner lost the brackets where they mount on the driver side to the body so I'm needing a set if anyone is selling. Also discovered I have a leaking transmission axle stub seal. Glad I threw a long cardboard box under it in the shop.

Unless you've had an engine swap to something uncommon, the fuel pump is what pressurizes the injectors. The injectors are electronically controlled valves, that let out a precise amount of fuel when the computer tells them to open and close. The fuel to them is supplied, at pressure, by the fuel pump. The only common exceptions to this are diesels, ancient satanic bosch fuel injection, and ultra-modern direct injection gas engines...

I’d check the fuel pump relay. Maybe the contacts in that are dirty and don’t always make a good contact, making it look like the fuel pump is the issue. The fuel pump relay will be located on a bracket beside the main ignition/power relay. The ignition relay is a brown six pin relay. I don’t know exactly where it’s located in your model though. I hope it’s a simple fix like this. Cheers Bennie

Minimal rust on the lower right hatch corner. I've got a brand new set of 13" winters that I've been storing, and a brand new set of front rotors that I bought for my bush beater 89' GL wagon, which I'm assuming will fit the turbo wagon no problem. That GL wagon has a D/R 5spd and I have another D/R 5spd that I pulled out of my GL sedan 15 years ago. So I have the pedal assembly to make the swap happen, but it isn't priority. Just want to get this turbo wagon running and "reliable" The XT6 seller is firm at 1k (cdn). Car comes with extra set of rims, headlight covers, doors, perfect condition front fenders (grey), extra front and rear bumpers, front and rear seats in good condition stuffed into the car right now, intact dash bezel, cybrid steering fluid. All the glass is good except a fairly minor crack in the front windshield which I assume I won't be able to source another unless I find a parts car down across the border in Washington. Rust holes by both rear wheelwells, I noticed a rust hole in the bottom of the trunk. Will need a radiator and likely headgasket job. He's done a spring replacement for the air suspension but says I should source a proper set of spring suspension so I'm not sure if that's available, or if I can slot a set that's for a different ea82 model. The owner has owned several XT cars and would be keeping this one if he could source a windshield. My end goal for this XT6 would be an EZ30 lowered cannonball style build/drift potential. I have the Knox Mountain Hill Climb near me which is the oldest running paved hill climb in North America. If I were to fully cage an ea82 for the purpose I'd probably use a GL coupe or Chaser(hatch). RX cars are almost impossible to find up here. XT6 too front weight biased to bother with a proper hill climber build. I do have 3 1960's BMW 700 cars. Two sedans one coupe. Blue sedan is my avatar photo. They're rear engine twin boxer. My plan is to do retromods on the two sedans and use all the good panels and OEM bike engine on the coupe cuz that's where the retained value is. Thinking about using one of those as a hill climb full tubular chassis with an ej22t with the proper NA 2.5 heads which I think come's to 2230 CC which with forced induction x 1.7 keeps me just under the GTO 4.0 litre class. Mate an ej22t with a subaru manual with flipped ring and built axles to handle the reverse rotation is probably my best option. Not interested in running a chopped VW pan/transmission which is what that Ludwig guy on youtube did for his 700 coupe. Anyway, someone talk me either out of this or into it haha. I'll probably just get it even though I shouldn't. Hard to pass up an XT6 in Canada.

do you have the FSM? the one for my forester does have a spec for the ride height "wheel arch height", check to see how the number for the OB compares to your actual car

http://opposedforces.com/parts/ back online. It goes out periodically.

oil pressure sending unit

Thanks for letting us know it worked out. That’s wild none of us responded back then!?