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First joined this forum 20 years ago when I had an 84 hatch that I had bought sitting in a field while I was in high school. At the time, I had a 91 Legacy. Drove that till it blew up and then picked up an 83 Brat that I found for sale on here and picked up another 83 for parts. Had a 2000 RS coupe in college, then a 95 Outback beater. Sold the RS and got an 05 STi, sold it in 2016 and got back into an 04 WRX in 2022. Picked up this 84 GL 2 weeks ago as if I needed another project but I am not poor on vehicles - also have a 2019 Tundra and 2015 Rav4. This thing was in surprisingly good shape for being an east TN car. With that, it does have its issues. I have on my work bench a new rear wheel bearing to install, hatch struts, will need a radiator as I see it dripping. I am also trying to nail down why the blower isn't working. I pulled the fan resistor switch last night and it showed continuity but I need to see exactly what ohm values it's supposed to have. Nothing like reading 20+ year old USMB posts. We still like pics on here?

Try looking for an EMPI 86-1098-D. See if the boot shape matches. :]

The chrome bumpers is what I always look for on these to indicate 2wd vs 4wd.

I’d argue that new boots on an old OEM cv shaft assembly is well worth the effort if it’s not left to grind along with loads of road grime, water and dirt in there. A mate of mine swears by stretchy boots. I saw one (now a meme somewhere) that wrapped the boot around the shaft a number of times when the gizzards of the CV joint let go for whatever reason. The CV joint was rebuilt on the side of the road and the boot reused! I’ve used various aftermarket boots with good success. I next time I’ll be trying these stretchy boots. Cheers Bennie

When you buy the entire CV axial, the boots will last for a couple hundred thousand miles. What the subaru mechanics like to do it coat them with a fluid that causes them to disintegrate in about 3 weeks, so you will be back in 4 weeks to have even more work done. It is generally a waste of time to put new boots on a high mileage CV axial. Replace the entire assembly.

It's not a hard job, but very labor intensive. - Remove all the interior trim around the windows to drop the headliner. Do it when it's warm and there is less chance of the plastic pins breaking. - Remove the headliner, drop the seats so you have the most room to turn it and get it out the rear hatch without bend it too much - Disconnect the sunroof wiring and drain tubes - Unbolt the sunroof, 2 helpers make it easier. - Reverse to install the used one. If you have access to self-serve yards, you can practice on a yard car. I know some of the slide hardware changed from year to year. If you change the complete frame that issue goes away. Best of luck!

Thanks! It appears someone definitely paid for the undercoating and it paid off. I've only seen some very minor flaking on the front bumper attachment points.

First post! Here are some pics of my 88' GL. I call her Constance. I have just about a million photos of her, but these are some of my favorites. Everything is stock except the exhaust which custom made by the last owner, nothing loud just not stock. Not exactly sure why it was done but it's not an issue, so I don't mind. Also, the rims were painted black which I'm a huge fan of. -Philly

My ‘81 dropping by to get parts for my ‘23

This really disturbs me. That these, and who knows how many other thousands of old parts there are, sitting in Subaru warehouses. With no way for anyone to even begin to find them, unless they have an old parts book. I got these numbers from a guy on facebook, who had such a book, as incredibly ironic as that is... When I bought my 83 ragtop 4 years ago, In February in Indiana, at night, in sub-zero temperatures, the thermostat was stuck wide open. I went to the dealership I had actually worked at in the early 90s for a tstat. The kid at the parts counter was, like, "Uh...like, our system only goes back to like 85." I just glared at him, turned around, and went to Napa. I was too steamed to even discuss why: 1. He had no clue that they were the same as the 85-94s. 2. That Subaru had not bothered to put anything older in their system. I realize they are only required to sell parts for 15 years after manufacture, but why keep these parts in stock then?!? I really see this as a failure of Subaru to support the survivors of their brand. They should be featuring some of our old relics... with the old relics (us) that keep them alive, in their sales propaganda, instead of all the 20-somethings and their dogs camping in brand-new Crosstreks... Forgive my rant.

I Agree, the Clutch Fan is not a good Idea at all, I removed it and retrofitted Twin Electric Fans, also I posted a Complete Writeup with Photos, explaining such retrofitting procedure in five easy steps. The Writeup is Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/125754-easy-guide-on-five-steps-to-twin-electric-fans-swap/ Kind Regards.

Yeah the early Manual, dual range 4wd cars (ea81 cars, 80-84) had the 4wd lever pivot point mounted solid to the body. When the trans mounts get bad, and the trans moves around it chnages the relative location to the lever.........causing it to try to engage 4wd. Later models (85-89) with Dual range have the 4wd shifter mounted to the shifter stay, and isolated by a rubber bushing....so the trans can move around, and the lever stays relative with it. The 4wd light and the lever jumping around is definately your trans mounts.

if the axle nut and washers are in place on the other side you should be ok with just the one thats stripped., but with the only thing that was holding you wheel on being your brakes you should look into that too. new pads, if it hasn't eating away at your caliper and bracket too much they could still be used at your own risk. The reason you cant drive it in 2wd with one stripped hub is called an open differential, it sends power to both wheels and if one isnt connected it sends all the power to the one thats slipping. thats why you are able to turn, if it were a locked differential, it would send equal power to both wheels but you couldn't turn very well. the 4wd light is a minor issue like gloyale said probably trans mounts. you said its a loyale with a d/r swap? maybe check the bolts and make sure they are tight.

I took a 1 hour drive out to a country junk yard that has a few wrecked, old Subarus... I was able to get a Purge Control Valve off a 93 Loyale for only $15! That sure beats the dealer cost of $102! Now my 92 Loyale's check engine light is out and the engine also seems to run a little smoother as well. Hopefully this will imporve the gas millage to. The best part was that the junk yards "lot car" was an old 90 Loyale wagon that was tearing through the huge mud puddles and thick mud like it was nothing! I'm glas to see they can still take a beating after all these years! T.J.