edrach

For those of us going, bring your mud tires and rain gear. Looks like the field will be wet today. http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=hillsboro%2C+OR

I'd still check out the distributor. Check for wobble in the main shaft where the rotor is and make sure all the wiring to the distributor is well connected (along with the coil). Don't ignore the easy stuff before you get into the more "esoteric" reasons for this symptom.

DOJ failure is mild to severe vibration during acceleration; vibration disappears instantly as you let off the gas. I have had it so bad that it felt like the transmission was about to fall out. Also, so slight that an experienced mechanic didn't feel it was problem. In both cases, replacing the axle eliminated the vibration. A torn boot is almost always an indication of a bad joint. I've never found it economical to just replace the boot. For $20 I can get a good used, inspected (by me) axle at Pull a Part. I apparently have a good eye since I've installed over a dozen on various cars we've owned and they last almost as long as many rebuilt units I've bought.

Just a thought, the AT radiator is rated to dissipate more, but I suspect that difference is to cool the automatic transmission fluid and not the engine. I have had great success with the single row but for your area and conditions the extra cash for a two row is likely well worth the peace of mind.

Pretty much the same for the location; resistors block are the same for EA81 and EA82.

A little late, but this should have come up in your search since I've posted it here before. Still works for me. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

I do have some of those terminals at work, but not enough. And yes, they are impossible to get even for the professional. When we tried to order them, it was 10,000 piece minimum quantity! Replacing the entire plug is fairly simple and practical. The other alternative is to hit up radio shack and buy a few of the insulated quick disconnect terminals in the proper size and splice around only the faulty terminal. In any event, the faulty terminal needs to be replaced sooner or later before it causes definite problems.

We should be there; planning to leave here by 6am. It started raining here around 9pm; bring the mudders.

Removal is easy; but your suggestion would help greatly in the replacement. Easiest way to remove: 1/ Dis-able ignition by unplugging most sensible item 2/ Put 22mm socket and breaker bar of suitible length and rotate by hand clockwise until the bar hits the fender well on the driver's side. 3/ Turn ignition to use starter motor to rotate engine momentarily. Just a short jolt is all that's needed.

Looks like it rained last night at the ORV park; and the chance of rain for the next three days has increased to 40% . Looks like the mudders will work well again.

Great, the more the merrier.

I just read your thread about making your own resistor block. Nice piece of work. However, you might be drawing too much current which caused your connector to overheat. But then again, I've seen enough of these connectors fail in this fashion. I'm beginning to think I'm over-thinking this whole thing.

You discovered the secret of the resistor block; even with the original resistors which are pretty high wattage, the airflow from the blower is needed to cool them. And the higher the speed, the more air flow to keep them from burning up. Good work.

I'm from the same school of thought. But in this case, I'd replace it. You can check it yourself. Check your battery voltage at the battery terminals. Then check the voltage at the blower with it on high speed. It should be the same; likely it'll be 1 or 2 volts lower. Bad connections never get better; they just get worse. Eventually they no longer conduct and the blower will not go. It's a matter of "fix me now, or fix it later." Your choice.

Four events in the last three weekends of June! From the PRG mailinglist forum: Hi everyone! June is RallyCross month in the Northwest. For those of you that are unaware, there are three RallyCross events and one Rally School this month. June 17th, 2007 - Dad's Dash RallyCross hosted by PRG at the Straddleline ORV Park URL: http://www.pacificrallygroup.com/rci061707.html June 22-24th, 2007 - Primitive Rally School in Hillsboro hosted by Primitive Racing with a RallyCross on Sunday, June 24th hosted by ORG URL: Rally School: http://www.get-primitive.com/ RallyCross: http://oregonrally.com/Event_Detail.cfm?EventID=508 June 30th-July 1st, 2007 - PRG Dragonfly RallyCross and PRG Summer Fun RallyCross hosted by PRG at the Straddleline ORV Park This event is held on the same weekend as the West Coast Subaru Show (www.westcoastsubarushow.com) so if you own a Subaru, you should come to these two RallyCross events. URL: http://www.pacificrallygroup.com/rci063007.html http://www.pacificrallygroup.com/rci070107.html I hope everyone has a chance to get to one of these fun events during the month of June. Give dad a break from the same old ties and socks that he gets every year and buy him an entry to the Dad's Dash event! If you know anyone aspiring to be a rally driver, please send them to the Primitive Rally School. The instructors are great and the experience is one they won't soon forget! :-D Cheers, Erik Lyden

Be prepared to pull more than one resistor block. I used to pull them every chance I got and found more than half had one or more of the resistors open. That's the bad news, the good news is that Subaru used this device in the Loyale series up to '94 so the newer the donor car you find, the more likely you'll find a good unit.

Great picture; and I'm not trying to steal the thread, but it points out a common problem on 20+ year old cars. A bad connection in the wiring generally generates heat which turns the connector plastic brown and in some cases black. It's time to replace this connector---grab one from a suitable car at the boneyard and butt splice it in place of this one. That's the easiest fix; if you're really handy and have the tools you can replace just the offending terminal(s). What are the symptoms of a bad connection aside from turning the connector brown or black? Heat is generated by dropping voltage across a resistance. You're getting lower voltage where you want it. In this case, the blower motor if it works at all speeds, will be spinning slower than normal since some of your 12 volts is lost in the connector. The most common connector that has this symptom is the first connector (usually pink plastic) that carries current from the ignition switch to the starter. The bad connection shows up as intermittant not starting and eventually not starting at all. I've replaced a number of them on our older EA81 cars (generally after the owner of the car has already replaced the starter motor and/or the battery).

http://www.wunderground.com/US/WA/McCleary.html

Event will be held at the Straddleline ORV Park. Schedule: - Tech Inspection: 0800-0900 - Registration: 0815-0900 - Driver's Meeting: 0915 - First Car Out: 0930 Cost: $25 for PRG Members, $30 for non-members (both include admission to the ORV park) After tech inspection, please go to registration to obtain your timecard. There is only one session scheduled for this event. Worker positions will be assigned at the driver's meeting and the entire group will be split into run/work groups at that time. After the parade lap, those working first will go to their worker assignments. Those running first will put their cars into the grid to prepare for their first run. Helmets are required (Snell 95 and newer rating). Loaner helmets will be available at the event but in limited supply. If you're unsure about what class your car will run in, please read the Rally Cross rules. Spectators: The ORV park charges $10 per car for anyone entering the park. If you're interested in spectating, try to carpool to minimize costs. If you know someone competing, ride along with them. There is a concession stand on-site, so please bring cash for lunch.

It was ordered specifically for the '84 Brat. It would take me a while but I could find the exact model number. There was a bit of confusion since Australia doesn't call it a Brat. Edit: Part number was BSR41. Catalogue can be found at http://www.whiteline.com.au/default.asp?page=/swaybars.htm

This would work okay on '84 wagon; not sure how it would work on an early hatch. Qman and I mounted the Whiteline rear swaybar to my '84 Brat today. It took a bit of figuring as to the best way to install it, but it's on and doesn't rub anywhere or clunk on anything while I'm driving. I'm writing this up since there were no directions for specific installation on this model Brat and there may be more Brats (or early '80s EA81 models) out there that could use this modification. Once we figured out how to mount it, it took about an hour to complete the job. The swaybar looks like a large mis-shapen letter "V" and is mounted with the point of the "V" toward the front of the car and hung by u-bolt hangers to the torsion bar. The "V" has a slight bend near the front and that bend needs to be mounted to point upwards (down will cause the bar to rub on the driveshaft). Also, the u-bolt hangers shouldn't point straight down but rotate slightly toward the front of the car to allow the point of the "V" to clear the front of the torsion bar adjuster. The rest of the installation involved drilling two holes near the lower shock mounts to attach right angle brackets. We mounted the brackets upwards to allow more ground clearance at the end of the links that attach to the ends of the sway bar. Pictures explain this much better than a verbal description. See them at the link below: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/whitelinesway/

Try Aaron's Auto Wrecking in Seattle, WA; ask for Tom Keys 1-800-541-7271. Only downside might be the cost of shipping.

I keep getting questions about this and I'm really not the expert here. This is the best link I've found (from Skip) and it should be in the USRM. http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/subrepair.htm

At the ORV park outside of McCleary, WA. Details to follow shortly.

A few more Legacies spotted today at Lynnwood. A nice set of front seats in one of them. Also a '95 Impreza but it's been pretty well scavenged. Only had 89K on the odo and massive body damage on the passenger side. I grabbed the power steering pump for my "inventory". EJ18 is still there (as least the big pieces).