edrach

I'm not sure of the current rating since the '83 FSM doesn't have a current value for the links. However, it does say that the cross section of the green fusible link is .5 square mm and the red link is .85 square mm. If someone has an electrical manual and can see what the current carrying capacity is for copper wire of that diameter. However, that's not the point. The comment for the red link direct from the service manual is "Fusible link should melt within 15 seconds at a current flow of 130 amperes." Green link "should melt within 15 seconds at a current flow of 80 amperes." So you see that fusible links are not fuses but safety devices. Fuses will blow pretty quickly at those currents. Using an old fusible link might cause it to burn out since it's no longer able to handle the rated current draw for a long enough time. Scour the wrecking yards and pull a selection of fusible links for yourself until you find what's causing the failure. As a help, the center link feeds the contacts of the lighting relay; after the lighting relay contacts the wiring is split between the three fuses for the headlights and tail-lights (two 10A and one 15A). Since these fuses aren't blowing the wiring problem (short) should be before the fuseblock. In addition the center link feeds a 10A fuse going to the horn and hazard switch. Same comment applies; i.e. the short you're looking for has to be before the fuse. If someone in the Bothell, WA area has a scanner, they could scan my FSM and post the info for you.

Sears Craftsman WF 42885 is one drift tool to use that works quite well; 3/16" for the generic tool.

Rust is why I don't suggest dropping the ball joint. But to each his own easiest method.

Item C) I don't think I ever said it was easy. Before I got the Subaru tool off ebay, I used to pull the stub axle through by using a number of large washers and an axle nut and pry the axle through with two large screwdrivers and a fair amount of effort. I did at least a half dozen on my '86 wagon that way. Some were easier to pull through than others . Only in the worst cases did I ever remove the outer portion of the hub. Three hours to do six is excellent time; I've taken anywhere from 30 minutes to 4 hours each depending on the car and bearings and axle. Ninety minutes is about average for an axle replacement by your average "shadetree" mechanic.

Jamal, I posted the link to that chart and I know what it says. What I'm trying to determine is whether FHI used OTHER gearboxes for the '97 Impreza model year than the standard gearbox listed in the chart.

I believe fusible links have a higher current rating than 30 or 40 amps. Check what the center link feeds and see where it goes. It's even possible you have a short down stream. Hard to find if you don't look at a wiring diagram and see what it feeds.

Looking to compare information of what transmissions were available for the '97 Impreza with 5 speed manual and EJ22 engine. I've found FHI often used other than "normal" transmissions to keep up production schedules. Can you check you VIN plate (on drivers side inside fender well in engine compartment) and let me know what transmission you have and post it? I have a TY752VA5AA in my car. Thanks.

I bought the BR-3 (search for one of my previous threads) and I'm quite happy with it. However, I've stumbled across others that look equally promising. http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/DiagnosticsSoftwareSuppliers

No webers; there's one EA81 hatch and two or three EA81 wagons (see my previous update). I never walk the American side of the yard; you might call them and ask about the amc you're looking for: 425-778-3147

I was at Lynnwood again yesterday to pull some parts off the '95 Legacy sedan that I posted earlier. I got the transmission, rear diff, a/c compressor, starter and an axle. I even got to use my 5% discount (whoopee). Anyway, I found out why the car was in the yard; a pretty signifcant bash in the oil pan. I would doubt anything in the engine is damaged past the oil pan and oil pickup portion. Not much work to pull the engine (only 122K miles). If nothing else it would make a great rebuilder. I also walked the new arrivals portion of the yard and there were three new EA82 arrivals.

I haven't tried this yet with my L but my understanding is the '97 and '98 Outback Sport springs will add a little lift to your L Impreza. It'll be something I do the next time I take the struts off.

Rob, call me next time and I'll lend you my PORTABLE pressure washer. It's slow but only costs me the water.

Wait until you find the mud underneath. It took me almost two hours with the pressure washer to get the underside "reasonable". I couldn't believe how much mud was caked on the underside after just 5 under one minute runs!

I was at the yard again yesterday and found a recent addition. A '95 Legacy L sedan with 122K miles on the odo. Interior is immaculate; seats and door cards in great shape in grey. 5 speed manual and EJ22. I'm not really sure why or how this one wound up in PAP.

http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/pdf/engine/overhaul.pdf

http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/obd2/obd2.html

http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/techdocs.html I could spend hours hunting through everything that's on this website. Unbelievable. After considering, I think I should take this link and sort it into the correct categories and re-submit it. Let me know. Thanks. ---ed---

That's enough. 1/10 amp with that load indicates a reasonable connection where you measured it.

Patience and time. We were all "new users" at one time or another. And we all paid our "dues" to get where we are now. You'll get there too. Frankly, I'd trade places with you anytime!

Glad you made it back safely. The two Blue Mountain passes can be tough; one of them is long and pretty steep. I've done them twice in the winter (not fun) and three times in the summer; once towing my son's '84 wagon home from Mountain Home, ID.

Are you testing that voltage with the lights on or off? Voltage drop is near zero if you're not drawing any current. If you want a true test, always test under load (as much current draw as you can manage); turn on the lights, blower, radio and anything else that pulls current.

You'd see more in Vermont and New Hampshire. But even so, there's a much higher concentration in Colorado and the entire west coast.

Either a bad connection somewhere or a bad alternator. You should get well above the 13.1 volts at the battery under load (i.e. with the lights on) and with the rpm above 1500. Get the alternator tested at a local auto parts store. Most of them will test it for free for you.

New pads and turned rotors at 30K miles? What's wrong with your brakes? I've gone 70K since the last pad change and still have plenty of pad left.