edrach

GD is right on with both opinions. Backing plates sometimes require huge amount of rust penetrant, a good sledge hammer (only beat on the re-inforced portion), time, and patience to remove. I've never found a backing plate I couldn't get off; but I have spent as much as two hours on the worst case samples. It helps to scrape the built up rust off the hub with a pen knife before trying to remove the backing plate.

Of all the rear disk conversions I've done and pulled, I've never had to replace the rotors. Only once did I have to have them turned. I couldn't find the rotor you were looking at, but worst case is that you would need to have the old rotors turned before installing them. Just for a price point, conversion kits for rear disks normally sell on the USMB for $100 or less plus shipping (that includes all the used parts you'll need). And yes, FWD kits and 4WD kits would be different (the backing plate is the primary difference).

Only difference between the two is the backing plate; otherwise they are the same.

More pics here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/9924449@N07/sets/72157601996349257/

My sentiments exactly.

I always use my seatbelts and frankly I've never liked air bags. I've worn glasses all my life and have no desire to have the lenses pushed into my eyeballs. During the initial testing for airbags many years ago some German companies used cadavers to see how they would affect a person. They found the ear drums popped on the cadavers if the windows were fully closed. My personal opinion, once the air bags deploy it adds about $2000 to the cost of the repair which normally sends the bill to the point where the insurance company can "total" the car. Cynic that I am, that was a primary reason for mandating them in the first place.

If I remember correctly, it's in the same place on an EA81. I just looked in my Brat and there you have to remove the small tray that's in front of and under the glove box. On the older wagons I sort of remember a panel under the glove box that you'll need to remove to see it. Skip's picture at the beginning of this thread is accurate once you remove all the stuff in the way.

Try Rich Lawson at Superior Import Repair (richierich on the USMB).

There's another rallyX closer to home for you on Oct. 7th. http://www.oregonrally.com/rallycross.cfm Come to both to carry you through the winter off-season.

Thanks to 02blur here's a bunch: I just got home and decided to upload some pics from today. I have more videos later. Yah, it was a little dusty And now some videos! http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/silverrs.mov 21MB http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/Kea.mov 16MB http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/ed1.mov 17MB http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/whitevo.mov 12MB http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/redlegacy.mov 12MB http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/bluelegacy.mov 6MB http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/silversti.mov 4MB I probably have some of the models wrong, sorry about that. I have a lot more, also, probably be tomorrow. Here are more pics I uploaded Monday (9/10) http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/toyblue.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/redblacksubi.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/greensubi.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/ed1.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/audi.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/whitewrx.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/La'Akea1.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/bmw.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/rebecca1.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/whitevo.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/whiteevo1.jpg

The vacuum advance question keeps coming up and with Rubild no longer rebuilding distributors, that question will come up too. Here's where to get either: http://www.philbingroup.com/rebuilt/special_services.htm

Just to throw in my two cents. I'm still trying to justify going to the event. I think it would be great fun and if I understand it correctly, it's a two day event (correct me if I'm wrong). My problem is taking a weekend away from my wife to go play (with her car yet! ). Anyway, if I can make it a "get-away" weekend for her at the hotel where she can relax while I play, I'm up for it. It's easier now that PRG has cancelled their September RallyX due to a scheduling snafu. How long a drive is it to Mt. Washington from the Nanaimo Ferry terminal? I looked at the map and it looks like quite a ride.

Looking for pics from the event. I'll post some links soon. Got this last night. http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/ed1.mov

Jamie (subiegal) is one of the best instructors at the school; got that from a number of her students in the last few years.

Interesting walk through PAP again. A few more ea82 wagons, but the most interesting find was a 98 Forester! Mostly gone already; no engine, transmission, rear diff, axles, seats, rear window, and instrument cluster. Deep red color, most of the body parts are okay; just the four struts and wheel hubs left. It probably went into the yard Friday either missing all that stuff or someone had a very busy weekend.

The ceramic stuff does help the coils last longer but I suspect it's not because it acts as a heatsink. The ceramic keeps the coils apart so that adjacent loops don't touch, fuse together and then upset the current draw for that loop (or cause a hot spot which causes the coil to go open circuit). The primary cooling for the coils is done by placing the resistor coils in the direct path of the blower helping to disipate the heat generated. Plus the faster the blower turns, the more cooling air is generated. Pretty clever those fellows at Heavy Fuji.

Lots more than 4 running in M4. If they handed out awards 4 deep you can bet that there were more than 10 in class. You'll see when the scores are posted; if I remember correctly it was a pretty large field running yesterday. I spent a long time in the field shagging cones during the early session.

Good time and as you say, not too shabby. Congratulations on your award in class.

Sister7 was there in her RX. I was there in my blue Impreza (#044), cfwdfw was there in his red Legacy GT. GLCraigGT was there in the afternoon taking pics with his new camera. Look us up tomorrow at the rallycross. Yes, I had a great time too. So what was your time?

That's exactly why I don't like to drop the ball joint. I did it this time since I didn't want to screw up the camber (even when I'm very careful, the camber can be upset by taking out the 2 big bolts). I got lucky this time because it came out easily; and more surprisingly went back in just as easily.

I must be leading a charmed life. I had a CVJ boot let go over the weekend and finally had time to replace the axle this evening. By the way, early Legacy ('91) and '97 Impreza take the same axles. Had this confirmed by SIR in Portland, MWE who rebuilt my two axles, and Tom at Aaron's who's sold enough axles to know the difference. I don't understand the discrepancy in the part numbers but they could be different numbers for something inconsequential. It took me 45 minutes start to finish without any "special" tools. Probably because I've done this often enough on all my cars that the parts haven't had the opportunity to rust in place. Needless to say, I used some never-seeze on the splines to make sure I never experience the problem cookie had with his. For a change I took a chance by dropping the ball joint out of the bottem of the strut to minimize the chance of screwing up the alignment. Worked okay for me; better than past experiences with that option.

Finally dawned on me what you meant. At the time I posted that, I didn't have the Michelins mounted on wheels I could use. I have them now and they seem to work okay except I'm concerned with clearance problems; not sure what will rub where when I press the suspension to the limits. I'm not anxious to damage the front fenders and might be a bit too cautious about using them.

Good solution. Only improvement I could suggest is to add a 2nd screwdriver on the left at the 9 o'clock location; with the 1st one at 3 o'clock, just push on the handles to bring the inverted nut toward you.

I think you mentioned earlier that you had a Forester so you should have splines at the wheel/hub end. Lube the splines to make life easier; the fact that you had so much trouble getting the old one out makes me think there was some rust build that's still interfering with this. If you can get the axle far enough through to put the castle nut on for 4 or 5 turns, you can use it for a pinch point and using two large screwdrivers, pry the stub axle out a little at a time. I have 6 large washers that I used to use to put under the axle nut to get me a little further each time until it finally came all the way through. I'm still trying to get my head around the fact that your axle is so difficult to get out and get in again.

Here's an extreme solution to the 13" scarcity! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79316