edrach

Granted no check engine light seen; but has anyone put a Subaru Select Monitor on it to see if any funky codes are left in memory?

http://kylefunsten.com/photos/hood07/

Not quite like Hood River. Astoria fairgrounds are much larger and have more "rural" and expansive room for tent camping. RV camping is extensive with only water and electricity available. On site showers and facilities are available also. These grounds are huge compared to Hood River. Also, if you have the vacation time available, take some extra time before or after WCSS to explore Astoria and the nearby Oregon coast area.

Congrats Connie. I wish you the best with the new car. Enjoy it, you've certainly worked hard enough for it.

Good luck with it. I hope you never have to change an alternator; that job is a bear. I had to pull one for my brother-in-law at PAP; I had to loosen the motor mounts and raise the motor slightly to get it out!

It's not cheap, but it lasts for years. I powder coated the wheels on my son's first Brat over 10 years ago and they still look good (after I clean them:rolleyes: ). As to the price, it was $25 per wheel to sandblast, $25 per wheel to powder coat, and $20 per wheel to add the clear powder coat on top of that. ---ed---

Good point, thanks for the tip.

I bought a set of Jackman wheels a while back with the intention of putting them on the Brat. However, they were a bit rauchy; extremely rusted and pitted. I sent them out to a shop in Mukilteo for sand-blasting and powder coating. I was quite pleased with the job. Here's what they look like now:

Call Jason at 1stsubaruparts.com 1-866-528-5282 (toll free). If he can't get what you need it truly might be too old (doubtful).

Seafoam is an oil/gas additive sold at many auto parts stores along with Rislone, Marvel Mystery Oil and others. NAPA carries it for sure.

That's what I'm hoping. I still plan a leak down test when I can schedule it. I will continue the Seafoam additive since that seems to have helped somewhat.

Yes, I know that's still going on, but it seems to be less than it used to since I'm not losing oil like I used to.

Definitely not over-filled. Takes 4-1/2 quarts for the change and I only use four quarts. I need to re-check it at work when the car is level since my driveway has a slight slant. I top the oil up at work and then observe it. So far it's been holding up okay.

Sorry, haven't sent the car out to have any real tests (compression, leakdown, etc) done on it. Been too busy to arrange this. However, there is hope on the horizon. Last two oil changes I added about 5 ounces of seafoam to the engine oil. Since the last oil change I haven't had to add any oil in the last 1000 miles. The only other difference is I've taken the car on some longer trips (50 to 300 miles) to counter the short trip usage that my wife subjects it to. Thanks to all for the useful advice and I will follow up on this when our family schedule settles down. But for the time being, it's nice to see the consumption getting down to a more normal level. It still smokes for about a minute or so after a cold start, but that's also much less than it used to be.

From RoundtheBend: Results are posted: http://www.pacificrallygroup.com/archives/07/rc110307.html Thanks to everyone for coming out and making this a great event and a great season! The event on November 10th has been canceled. Cheers, Erik

http://www.specialstage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29299

Should fit without problems; just make sure offset is around 50 to 55mm; aftermarket offsets of +38mm are not recommended by Subaru.

You're right about that; it did seem like a long wait.

Thanks very much to Pacific Import Auto for the use of their facilities, Dyno runs all day long, and a great BBQ. Drop me a PM and I'll identify the USMB folk shown. More pics in my Photo Album. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=1080

Alternator belt tight?

Unless the label is still there, no way to tell without opening it up and counting teeth on the ring gear and pinion and then dividing to get the ratio.

Only problem here is whether this diff is a 3.900 or 4.11. If it's 4.11, this is a great price on a used diff.

If the rear axles on the car are the original and the left one is the culprit; I'd think that replacing both would be smart (200K! the axle doesn't owe you much). Do a search of MWE axles on this site; they share space with CCRinc (engine rebuilder in Denver). I've bought two front axles from MWE 5 months ago and used both (one each on my Legacy and Impreza) and both work just fine and workmanship and quality of the boots are excellent. Certainly worth a call from you. I don't know how close to Denver you are but I'm in the Seattle area and the $25 shipping per axle was a small price to pay in addition. My guess is the axle seized, but I think you need to investigate this further since there needs to be a pretty significant reason for an axle to pop out of the diff. Good luck with the repair. http://www.ccrengines.com/mwe/ Rear axles: http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/458817396.html This might be worth exploring. Even with shipping you should be able to save some money if that's an issue. And 98K means there's 102K left!

Well, I'm glad we have the ratio nailed down! Anyway, my suspicion is the diff is okay. Check the axle on the side that pulled out. Outer joint doesn't move in and out more than an 1/8"---that's normal. Inner joint should move in and out about 1-1/2" total. I think if the inner joint seized in the shortest position, the axle would pull out given enough shaking like you experience on a rough stretch. If it's not a bad axle, I'm mystified. Let us know what you find. Lastly, I think you'll find the diff is okay. Do you have it out of the car? If so, there are a few obvious checks you could make.

The list is in the USRM. Here's the link: http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/trannychart/trannychart.pdf