edrach

Probably steel wheels and the price is okay. If alloys, that's a steal. Unless you went to oversize brakes or his wheels are only 14", you should be okay fitting them to your Outback.

Look up the TY number on your car's transmission bell housing or on the VIN# plate on the driver's side fender well. It'll be something like TY752VA5AA. Then look up that number in the transmission information thread in the USRM. It'll tell you the differential ratio of the transmission and the rear end ratio. It will be either 3.900 or 4.111, most likely 3.900.

Sorry, I'm not sure if your car is pre-wired. One would think it should be. I can't understand why the dealer can't find instructions/info for you.

What year Outback. I have the kit, harness and parts for our '97 along with instructions of sorts. I'm waiting for warmer weather to install it. My set reqires adding a switch to the dash area and I would think yours will be similar. Drop me a PM with your snail mail address and I'll send you a copy of what I have (sorry I don't have a scanner).

Snow conditions posted early this morning on nasioc: The conditions should be the same except for a bit more snow. Deer Park airport has like a foot and a half of snow right now. We are trying to figure out a way to plow the runways without removing all the snow. So far the 12th and 13th are solid dates. The entire course is snow over tarmac. It would be hard to damage your vehicles here. -Devin

From http://asnw.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1725&sid=4dcaa0ea74564c82c2313658468eece2: Here's our schedule for ASNW: Event 2 January 12th and 13th back up January 19th and 20th Event 3 January 26th and 27th back up February 2nd and 3rd Event 4 February 9th and 10th back up February 16th and 17th Event 5? March TBA, depends on the weather. This is as long as the snow is there. We rent out a couple runways at the Deer Park Airport. Deer Park is about 30 min north of Spokane. Price per driver is $30 The groups are set up as so: FWD, RWD, and AWD Novice- never raced Amateur- has a season under their belt Pro- well this should speak for itself Please see the video from last year HERE Please get the Subie people together and we can make these some fun meets. Of course, any car is invited! Also, please feel feel to post the in other Subaru and auto forums. Helmets are required. The only helmets allowed by our insurance are SNELL M2000 approved or newer. If you have one or access to one please bring it! Our club does have loaners but NOT many. Thanks, Devin http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/showth...hp?t=134286397

Agreed; sounds like the thermostat is stuck open.

From Paul Eklund: Remember coming up soon: Rally Worker and Awards Banquet Sat January 12th, Ft. Lewis Golf Club 6pm-ish (bring door prizes!) then... Thunderbird Rally (brisk snow) is Feb 9-10 www.rallybc.com<http://www.rallybc.com/> PRG Highway Cleanup (3 miles in Olympia) February 10th contact kim@pacificrallygroup.com<mailto:kim@pacificrallygroup.com> Ice RallyCross #1 Barnes Lake British Columbia Feb 2nd www.rallybc.com<http://www.rallybc.com/> Alcan 5000 Rally Feb 16 - 26th www.alcan5000.com<http://www.alcan5000.com/> Doo Wops Feb 23-24th http://www.nwr-scca.org/Rally/doowop.htm<http://www.nwr-scca.org/Rally/doowop.htm> Seed 9 Rally Feb 23 Jean, NV www.seed9rally.com <http://www.seed9rally.com/> AZ Rally Weekend (see below) March 1-2nd www.azbrscca.org<http://www.azbrscca.org/> PRG RallyCross (St. Patty's at ORV) www.pacificrallygroup.com<http://www.pacificrallygroup.com/> Primitive Rally Driving School March 28-30th www.get-primitive.com<http://www.get-primitive.com/> ORG RallyCross #1 Sunday March 30th, Hillsboro www.oregonrally.com<http://www.oregonrally.com/> Olympus Rally April 18-20th Primitive Rally Driving School May 2-4th ORG RallyCross #2 Sunday May 4th Oregon Trail Rally May 16-18th Primitive Rally Driving School May 30-31st ORG RallyCross #3 June 1st No Alibi Rally June 7-8th www.rainierautosports.com<http://www.rainierautosports.com/> and many others (see Ron Sorem's comprehensive RALLY CALENDAR) ARIZONA WINTER RALLYE WEEKEND Friday, February 29, 2008 Registration 6-10 PM - Sodas and munchies will be provided. Saturday, March 1, 2008 GULLIBLE'S TRAVAILS NATIONAL COURSE RALLYE Saturday, March 1, 2008 MARCH OF TIMES NATIONAL TOURING RALLYE Sunday, March 2, 2008 DESERT SANDS NATIONAL COURSE RALLYE Sunday, March 2, 2008 VIAJE A BUENOS AIRES NATIONAL TOURING RALLYE presented by the ARIZONA BORDER Region, SCCA (Dave Jameson, Carl Broberg, etc) Contact: Info: John Sears (520) 664-0906 jjsrally@aol.com Event Chairman Weekend Philosophy: GULLIBLE'S TRAVAILS visits VAIL, parts of eastern Tucson & some foothill areas. First car out at 9:01 AM and finishes about 3:30 at RISKY BUSINESS (bar & grill). The restaurant near TERRITORY & KOLB has NTN and is about 18 miles from HQ. Mostly DIYC with a few open controls and DIYC slip collection points. MARCH OF TIMES is essentially the course rallye without the traps First car out at 9:01 AM and finishes about 3:30 at above location. Mostly DIYC with a few open controls and DIYC slip collection points. DESERT SANDS visits parts of eastern Tucson. First car out at 9:01 AM and finishes about 3:30 PM at the hotel Mostly DIYC with a few open controls and DIYC slip collection points. VIAJE A BUENOS AIRES is essentially the course rallye without the traps (portenas guapas?) First car out at 9:01 AM and arrives 3:30 PM at the hotel Mostly DIYC with a few open controls and DIYC slip collection points. The scenery in Southern Arizona is, at times, quite spectacular. All the rallyes will try to use this to its full advantage. We really want you to ENJOY a hassle free weekend. The committee will make extended efforts to provide EXCELLENT HOSPITALITY for the ENTIRE DURATION. HEADQUARTERS: Friday, February 29 through Sunday, March 2 Fairfield Inn by Marriott at 6955 S Tucson Blvd 1-800-224-0023 or 1-520-295-8800 Register by February 1st and receive the special rate of $109 plus tax per night. Mention SPORTS CAR CLUB OF AMERICA. This is actually a good deal as the other hotels charge as much as $189.

Odd that the tires should be worn in this fashion. If the tires were never rotated, fronts should be more worn than the rears. Diagonal wear might indicate an unresolved alignment problem.

Last piece of advice. Don't be afraid to walk away from the deal. Lots of nice '06 cars out there. This one has enough "what ifs" to make me think more than twice about signing off on it. The salesman will call you if you walk away to offer you a better deal. The last new car I bought, I walked away 9 times. Got a call from the salesman within 24 hours each time with a slightly better deal. Finally bought the car when the price met my guidelines (brand new Mazda pickup truck back in 1988).

$1280 for the remaining warranty! Sounds a bit high to me also. I would think the original owner already paid for the full 5/75K warranty when he bought it; why should you pay any more? Secondly, with the miles on the car now, all warranty issues should have surfaced and been resolved already. The likelihood of additional issues now is pretty remote (unless the car has been abused or the tire issue isn't recent)

Three things: Run a carfax on the car. I'm assuming 45K on the car which seems quite high for a 2 year old car, but not impossible. With that mileage, all the OEM tires should still be good; not sure why two were already replaced. Go to www.nadaguides.com and check the proper price for this model car with the miles on it. I really don't believe that any dealer would limit himself to $300 profit on an '06 car. They are not that stupid. Lastly, if you do buy the car, GET EVERYTHING IN WRITING AND SIGNED BY A PERSON IN AN UPPER MANGAGEMENT POSITION (preferably the owner) AT THE DEALER. Include the fact it came with mis-matched tires when you first saw it whether they replace the tires or not. Make sure that any remaining warranty is detailed in the written statement. Good luck with your new car.

Stopped by Lynnwood today. Sadly the white hatch reported in carfreak's thread has gone to the crusher:banghead: . The good news is that an '83 wagon with a pristine body (bright shiny metallic green finish with no dents or scrapes), good tail-lights has taken its place. Also a newly arrived EA82 wagon is parked next to it.

Does the Brat have a weber carb? They are prone to have the primary ice up in cold weather. I recently experienced that on my Brat. The tipoff is the frosty coating on iced mist on one side of the barrel; pretty obvious once you know it's possible. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82646&highlight=weber I suspect the Hitachi can have similar issues. Does the carb still have the plastic shield in front of it? That was there to prevent the carburetor from icing up. Over the years that shield has usually dissappeared. As a matter of fact I'm looking for one for my Brat.

Boy, I didn't pick up on the vibration being in the rear until now. Sorry. Just to start over, which model do you drive and how many miles on your car? Automatic or manual transmission? I don't think I'd pull back the boots to check the grease. I've never needed to do that and you may create another problem doing that.

A torn boot is often a real sign of failure, but I would think you'd have noticed that. I agree with GD on it's being the front axles although I'm puzzled by the lack of the classic symptom.

Does the vibration come and go with when you accelerate? E.G. it vibrates when you are on the gas and accelerating, but it instantly stops as you let off the gas and coast. If this is the case, it's a bad DOJ (inner joint) on one or both axles. Classic symptom for a bad DOJ.

Rocker panels are rust free; driver's side is perfect; passenger side has a dent in the middle where they put it down on the support. Bring a strong friend or two if you need the passenger side (to lift it off the support).

The likely reason that they snapped off is they were tightened without a torque stick on the impact tool. 600 ft-lbs with an air impact tool does a great job stretching the studs and ruining the threads. I had a similar problem on my son's BMW. He had a local shop do a pre-buy inspection on it and brought it over here to install some fine alloy wheels with new tires. I couldn't get the first lugnut off with a 3/4" breaker bar with a 5 foot pipe on it:eek: . My son took it back to the shop and they broke 4 of the studs removing the lugnuts:mad: . Needless to say my son never went back to that shop.

Rent a tool is your best bet. I'll be there today and check on the rocker panel.

I don't see any problem with re-torquing. I would loosen one and re-tighten it properly and then go to the next in an alternating sequence. I use a portable electric impact tool (thank you harbor freight) and a torque stick since I change wheels and tires all the time when I run rallycross events. I use a torque wrench after the torque stick tightening to make sure it's correct. After 300 to 500 miles, I re-check all the lugnuts with the torque wrench.

Ditto on the crappy aftermarket axles. The axles on my brat that felt like the transmission was falling out were replaced and the brat has since run over 40K miles without transmission problems; of course I didn't run the brat too many miles with those axles.

It was a white hatch; had a pretty decent body as I remember it. It's near the end of the 2nd row. Get there soon since that row wil go to the crusher sometime next week.

Stopped by Lynnwood today and pulled the rear hatch off the Impreza; not a bad job but it was cold. Almost froze my fingers off. Another Legacy wagon was added today.

Our PAP's never move a car unless it's sold intact (very rare) or taken to the crusher.