edrach

Glad you found the trouble; even more glad GD and I gave you the right advice. It's just amazing how a bad DOJ affects the car. The first time I had an issue with our '86 wagon the vibration was so slight that our mechanic insisted there wasn't a problem (n.b. this was before I learned how to do my own axles). The second time was with a newly rebuilt axle and the vibration was so bad I thought the transmission would fall out of the car. Both times the tip off was the vibration happened only during positive throttle and acceleration. The vibration stopped completely as soon as I let off on the throttle and coasted. Keep your paperwork and try to get some satisfaction from Advance America. I've gone to MWE for my axles now. I usually keep a Pull a Part spare on hand for unexpected failures to tide me over until I can order a "new" one.

I've taken any of our cars through state inspection for 20 years now in WA (with three sons and a wife with each one having their own car); never have they lifted the hood. I've owned our weberized Brat for about 8 years now and never had trouble passing emissions except for one year when I had the delta cam rebuilt motor; that one required some "diligence" by the emissions guru to get to pass. And when that one failed "big-time" when we first took it through, they didn't look under the hood either.

And you walked right by the blue '94 Impreza wagon in the first row!

Carfreak is correct. WA only wants it to pass a sniffer test and a weber is often more easily tweaked to pass than the old Hitachi. The emissions guru in Seattle (I've posted about him before) has re-tweaked our car every time it came up for emissions testing and didn't pass the first time through. We currently have two weberized Brats which both passed during the last inspection.

Lets hope we're correct; it's the least expensive cause...especially if it's the new axle. My opinion isn't 100% sure, but I've seen the same symptoms on at least a half dozen subarus over the last 10 years and it was always the axle. Once when I brought the "new" axles back to the shop where I bought them (a wholesale supplier of auto parts) I just put the axles on the counter and before I even said anything, the partsman had another rebuilt set for me; he didn't even ask me for an explanation or paperwork. Fortunately the 2nd set worked just fine; but I did change suppliers. Good luck with it.

I'm with GD on the bad DOJ. Typical symptom is vibration under acceleration which goes away on trailing throttle. It can be a minor vibration or so bad one thinks the transmission is falling out. I've even seen it on axles which I just installed. I would not suggest driving any distance with the front axles removed.

If anyone still has a current carfax account, if you could run this for me I'd be grateful. Thanks. JF1SF635X2G716938

Spark, you have an early Legacy. You can pull the door handle off any early Legacy at pull a part, change the lock tumbler to yours, and re-install. Last time I pulled a handle and lock tumbler it cost me 30 minutes and $6.....the door went to the crusher:eek: . Besides if you screw it up, you get to practice on another car! Better than messing up your car. And trust me, it pays to practice first.

Take your XT key to a locksmith and ask what key blank he needs to make a duplicate. If it's a DA25 use the p/n from the original post, get the LED key, and take it back to the locksmith and have him cut it for you.

I lived all over that area. I lived in Elizabeth, Irvington, Union, South Orange, Livingston, Marcella, Boonton, Dover, and Rockaway. Over the course of 32 years. Lots of people knock NJ, but very few really know much about it. Twenty years of rally in that area and you get to see the best of the state.

Rockaway, NJ! My wife and I bought our first house in White Meadow Lake many years ago. We lived in Rockaway until we moved to Delaware. Small world.

Should work on your Outback. Best way to tell is if your Outback uses a DA25 keyblank. $12.20 each if I remember correctly.

Someone resurrected a three year old thread on key blanks recently and I found the following link in it: http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showpost.php?p=58841&postcount=8 Odd, I went searching for the thread today and couldn't find the thread so I'm starting my own. However, I digress, sorry. The key blanks mentioned in the link are still available from the dealer if you can persuade them to order it for you. (Jason at the Auburn, WA dealership is ordering a set for me 1-866-528-5282). The reason I bring this up is that key blanks from any locksmith result in the DA25 Nissan version. That works fine in my '91 Legacy, '97 Impreza, and even my '84 Brat! The dealer won't cut the keys for me, but I'll take the key blanks to my friendly neighborhood locksmith and I'll be set. Cool keys for all three of my cars! Nice stocking stuffers for your better half too.

Sounds like you might have blocked a good part of the radiator with snow; this would explain the running hotter than normal.

If you have an EJ25 engine make sure you're not low on oil. This engine has minimal baffling in the oil pan, and continuous donuts will cause the oil to well up on one side leaving the oil scavenger sucking air. Not good for your engine.

Well on the days you're down, give us a call. On the days you're up, come visit and share the time with us.

No. 2WD box is one piece and 4WD box is in two halves. 2WD box interferes with the 4WD linkage and you have trouble shifting gears. Odd, my neighbor just had that problem tonight. We spent about an hour trying to make the 2WD console work and finally gave up. I guess it could be done but we ran out of daylight and packed it in.

Sure, we can forget about it. Don't feel foolish, just come back. We won't even charge you a re-instatement fee! A pleasure, guy, we were all missing you already and it's nice to have you back.

I use a torque wrench every time all. IN ADDITION, I re-torque them again 300 to 500 miles later. Having had a wheel come off years ago, I learned from my error.

Key blanks for all the older Subarus (including EA81) are still available from a good locksmith. Sadly, they all say Nissan! But if it's a choice between a new key and an old worn one, I know which I'd go for. Most dealers can get you the key code from the VIN# if they no longer cut the keys themselves. I had a new one cut by my favorite parts guy in Auburn, WA recently from the VIN# for our '91 Legacy wagon. Local hardware store then cut me some spares using a DA25 key blank. Doesn't say Subaru, but doesn't say Nissan either.

Sorry to see you leaving. Keep in touch; we'll be around.

Check with your local independent Subaru shop and ask them what machine shop they use for flywheels; they should know.

Actually most of the early Imprezas were automatics; it was rare to find a 5MT; lastly, I was only speaking of the AWD version.

A secret about the early EJ18's: With 15" tires (or larger) they are "stones"; so slow you might regret having bought it. Put 14" tires on it and it's a night and day difference in pickup. I got that info out of Subiesport (early issue when they were building a project EJ18 rally car). It certainly worked for me! Also, it helped when you find one with a 4.111 rear as opposed to a 3.900

When maybe 80% of your braking efficiency in the front brakes (compare the size of the pads front and rear) I wouldn't see much advantage to adding vented rotors to the rear brakes.