Steve530

I guess you mean that they are warped, not out of round. I suppose this is possible, but I think that the warped rotors would be more noticable as a pedal pulsation. Eiher way, the fix is the same. Ant-squeal shims and compound. BTW, I use anti-sieze compound on the backs of the pads. Works great and you have to have it around, anyway.

What brand of pads were those, Bert. Maybe all ceramic pads are equal, but some are more equal than others. I've had ceramic pads on my BMW for about a year with no problems. No squeal, not much dust, and not rotor damage as far as I can tell.

Jared, those things that fit over the pads are anti-squeal shims. If those are missing, putting those in may help with the squeal. The rotors will not cause squeal. The squeal is from the pads moving around in the caliper. Replacing the front rotors and pads without replacing the rear rotors and pads is not a problem. Most of the braking comes power from the front by design, and most of the wear occurs there, too. Most cars I've dealt with wear out the fronts about twice as fast as the front.

From the last link: I've never heard that ceramic pads cause more rotor wear or overheat the rotors more than other pads. I have Akebono ceramic pads on my BMW and they are great. Very light colored dust and not much of it. Good initial bite with no fade in normal driving and very, very good modulation. IMHO, these are as good as the stock Jurid pads. Aren't the OEM pads on the 97 Legacy OBW ceramic?

Thanks.

That's a good idea. Do you know which years will fit the 97? I assume it's about 96-98.

Sub fan is dead. Are there any sources besides the dealer for the assembly or the motor if it is replacable?

Is the sub-fan running? If that does not run the pressure gets too high at idle and the high pressure opens and stops the compressor.

I use Leatherique Rejuvinating Oil and Pristine Clean on my BMW and my wife's 97 OBW. It is expensive, but it is by far the best product I've used for leather. Lexol is my second choice. IMHO, it does not condition the leather as well as Leatherique.

You still end up with a reasonable flow rate for the engine.

No, I think you're right that disc brakes are self adjusting. As the pads wear the pistons extend to make up the difference in pad thickness. The extra space behind the piston is then occupied by brake fluid and the level in the reservoir drops. The master cylinder piston is open to the reservoir for part of its travel, so the fluid from the reservior is pushed into the lines. If not all of that fluid returns because of pad wear, the difference is made up from the reservoir. So the height of the brake pedal should not change. I wonder what the manual says, exactly. If it does state that a low pedal is caused by worn pads, please let me know. My guess is that there is air in the system and it need to be bled.

And give it a twist as you pull on it. When you install the wires on the plugs, put a little dielectric grease inside the boot. It'll come off easier next time.

I found the Duramax displacement is 475.9 cu. in. 475.9 in^3 * (1ft^3/1728 in^3)= 0.2754 ft^3, which is the amount of air (and fuel) used in 1 revolution. (350 ft^3/minute) / (0.2754 ft^3/ revolution) = 1271 rpm So a duramax diesel engine at 1271 rpm would intake about 350 CFM. My guess is that 1271 rpm is above idle on that enigne and is probably a reasonable test. Did I do the math right?

I have not read that you need to gravity bleed the clutch, but yes that would change the procedure. You are correct that all that would be necessary is to open the slave cylinder blled valve and let the fluid drain, AFAIK. I would open the bleed valve wide and carefully monitor the progress to assure that the reservoir did not run dry, at least until you are sure how fast that would happen. I think I would probably run some fluid through there for a while and then close the valve and check the operation. If it is not working as it should, try it again. I wonder why you would need to gravity bleed a Subaru slave cylinder?

Meg's #17 and #10. Best to use a polisher if you have one. Another trick is to use metal polish applied by hand.

I'm pretty sure the scoop is there to attract girls.

A quick search turned up this webpage http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/. I have no idea if it is correct, but there is not a P1133 code listed for Subaru. But the codes around it indicate a failure of the O2 sensor in front of the catalytic convertor. As someone mentioned, this is the sensor that the ECU uses to control the fuel mixture. So my guess is that the front O2 sensor is bad.

I've done this on several cars, but never a Subaru, so my answers should be viewed in that light. 1) probably not. It may help to use the bleed screw cap to cover male fittings and a golf tee to plug hoses. 2) Not without a special device. I use a Motive power bleeder. There are also vacuum bleeders. Without these you'll need someone to pump the clutch pedal while you open and close the bleed valve. 3) a. Top up the master cylinder reservoir. b. Attach hose to bleed valve into suitable container. c. Press down on clutch pedal. d. Open bleed valve. e. Monitor flow for bubbles, if none go to i. f. Close bleeder valve. g. Release clutch pedal. h. Go to c. i. Done. Make sure reservoir is full. 4) In my experience, if you replace just the slave, the master cylinder will blow out within a year becuase the new component can hold more pressure than the other. This may not be true of Subarus.

I can confirm that the rear brakes on my wife's 97 Legacy Outback has dual piston calipers and a seperate set of cable operated brake shoes.

I use channellocks, too.

Yea, The don't dust, feel good, and stop the car well. FWIW, I paid about $90 for the front set of Akebono ProACT ceramic pads that I installed on the front of my BMW 530. So $144 is about right.

Thanks. They are good pads. Well worth the money, IMHO.

Does anyone use a Motive Powerbleeder?

Does anyone know who makes the OEM pads and what the compostion is?

Thanks. I'll test the fan. Anyone know a good source for these parts?