desperate

its an 5 psd push button 4wd. Itss goin up for sale I don;t have the time to deal with it any more. thanks for all the help guys!!

subyrally nailed it. I could have sworn i had them right... yeach me to be sure of something like that. new problem, MASS amounts of white smoke. doesn't smell sweet like antifreeze burning, doesn't smell like oil at all. just ALOT of white smoke. Any idea? last time the car was driven enough to get to full boost is spooled fine, havn't drove the car yet, I don't want to risk messing anything up. no smoke anywhere else but out the exhaust.

got 12 volts on the red wire. got power to the injectors. I checked ALL fuses and link with a test light, they are all good. tried unplugging the maf and had no effect. was a shot in the dark but I thought I'd try it. I'm stumped. the gas has been in ther around a year, so i want to try running a hose from a gas can with fresh gas from the fuel pump and see what happens then. Doesn't really make sense if the gas is stale why it would run for a couple seconds then die, but i guess anything is possible. Sound like it might be worth triyin or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Its got a half a tank of gas in it, I replaced the fuel filter last summer. gas does spue out when you take the line off, at the intake manifold and the filter. I'm gonna get over there today and check the relay and amke sure its getting voltage like its supposed to

Can easily hear the pump for a second or 2 when you turn the key over to on. Is ther a relay or the injectors i'm not aware of?

Not entirely sure what the deal was with the spark, only thing I changed was tighten up the screw on the back of the rotor button and I had spark at the plugs again. I guess it was just a hair to loose. now for problem number 2. No fuel. spray carb cleaner down the intake, and she fires right up and runs as long as you spray carb cleaner. Anyone have any helpful hints on quarks with the MPFI fuel injection that I don't know? Thanks for all your help so far guys. sometimes I guess I need some one to point out the obvious:-\

After a few months of sitting and a few attempts at getting the car to start. i put new plugs and wires on the car(all other tune up items had previously been done, and yes by me). Hooked the battery back up, turned the key and what do ya know the car finally turned over and ran, for about 2 seconds. then it died. Did no spit and sputter miss or anything, it just turned off like you would turn the key off. would not do anything more han crank over which was wat it was doing before, i had spark and fuel before today. after the car died, it cranks but I have no spark and no fuel. I checked my fusible links and the ignition and fuel fuses under the dash and they are both still fine. I'm kinda thinking bad ECM. but before I jump to conclusions, any one else have any ideas?

theres a injector test I didn't remember. I'll try that as soon as I can get back to the car. hot blue spark, tried the fusible link thing, even moved a few around with no effect. I'll do the screwdriver test on the injector and if I can confirm fuel with that I'll try unplugging and replugging everything then flipping the disty around 180

the distributor wasn't taken off when I pulled the passenger side head off. and it ran fine before that. I tried losing the bolt up and turning it while I had some one crank it over, and it made no difference at all. Head was torqued down correctly, and it never rained or anything while I had the head off, no rust, even surface rust on the cylinder walls when I put the head back on it. on the distributor there are 2 "ears" for bolts to go through, with those sitting on top of the bolts corresponding holes, can the disty still be 180 out? disty hasn't been touched since it last ran. I did check the rotor button to make sure it was tight and it was.

motor was rotated so the timing marks on the cam gears were 180 from each other. Made that mistake the first subaru I had. Also already thought about the rocker arms, dropped the valve cover hoping to see that one had come off, but all rocker arms are in place as they should be.

Car ran 2 months ago. pulled the passenger side head off to fixed a stripped oil line hole. Timing is set perfectly, I've got spark, I've got fuel. All vacuum lines are hooked up. The distributor is set according to the haynes manual. My firing order is hooked up according to the haynes manual as well. The knock sensor is broken, but it was broken the last time the car ran. This one has my stumped. It will crank over no problem, just won't fire up. doesn't even sound like it is trying to turn over. thanks guys anthony

Curt managed to point out my stupidity for me. I guess i had been up to long or something, never gottent hat mixed up on anything else before. the squeak was a melted timing belt cover. was rubbing on the drivers side right on top of the cam sproket. Got my delta cams put in, most everything hooked back up. We will find out tomorrow if we got everything right. I try'd to get it to start tonight, but after a few tries it wouldn't do anything but turn over, never would fire or run at all. I'm pretty sure the timing is set correctly, i think ther is something really obvious I'm over looking at the time. Hopefully it will run tomorrow after work.

EA82T 87 GL-10 wagon. push button 4wd \Started and ran fine last night. belt was slipping a little bit nothing major. Went out this afternoon, tighten'd the belt up, put new plug wires on it. Went to start it, It will turn over, but seems like its onlt going through all of the cylinders once, then it will act like it died, and start trying to crank itself again.... I'm lost on this one, i need some help.. PLEASE??? Has gas in it, plug wires are all connected, no loose connections(other than what was taken off with the AC,. but it ran fine right after that) Any help you guys can ovver would be beyong aprciated. My loyale got tboned 2 weeks ago, and gettin this fixed, and an inspection and I'll finally be back on the road again:) thanks

I must say your wagon looks much better in mud than it does filled with bricks! that looks to much like work. its not new and doesn't have an aux for the ipod, but you can pull the radio and thing out of the loyale along with whatever else doesn't get pulled for my wagon. It'll last until you can get something better

my digi work flawlessly, thats why I'm looking for a busted one to use the plugs and things off of, so if I screw up the swap I have a working one to put in. Gary: thatd be cool. definatly worth a shot.

Jonas, I had already planned on doing that, just wasn't sure how I was goin to go about doing it yet. was thinking red shrink wrap i found one time for light bulbs, but I can't seem to find it now. GD, soem of that had already crossed my mind. I have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge, not sure how much I'm gonna end up wiring though. I'll start with the must haves and if they aren't to big a pain I'll work from ther. thanks guys

thanks jonas! I searched for that thread a couple times but must have looked past it every time. I apreciate it

I know it has been done before. I have a digi dash in my 87 wagon. If I can find an analog gauge cluster for my wagon, would any one be willing to do the wriing part of the swap for me? Obviously I dont' mean for free. I'm pretty machanically inclined, but electrical stuff on a car, I can't stand. takes a long for me to figure it out. thanks anthony

I had already planned on running better brake pads, Since I'm basically rebuildin the whole wagon as far as suspension and engine go, I wanted to make sure I didn't skimp on the brakes at all. The line that are on the wagon look a little age, so I think I'm goin to look into the prices of makin a set of SSB lines for it. I just don't want my wagon to feel like my loyale did, still does some times, brake pedal to the floor, and all I get is fade... I'd rather have to deal with balancing the brakes on the verge of lockin all four tires than have to deal with brake fade, specially goin down back roads thanks for all the help guys

GD: I'm glad you told me that, better places to put the money. I don't want to run anything larger than 15's on my wagon, I've already got the stuff for a 5 lug swap, would it be worth it to dich the xt6 calipers and find some legacy or impreza calipers? should I get the master cylinder off whatever the donor car is?

I've looked everywhere, I should have known better, but I can't find a kit for it, any one else have any experiance with this? I want to run them on my gl-10 wagon, it will see some track duty and alot of "spirited" driving thru back roads and mountains.. thanks in advance guys

vid didn't work for me

sweet, thanks for the help. I manage to find hawk race pads from summit racing, but they are 140 some a pair, might have to pay it though for track days

What kind of brake pads options do we have for our ea82t's? I've got t-wagon that needs new brake pads, I want to upgrade to something that will stand up to street driving, and track days, even if i have to buy 2 different sets of pads and swap them out. thanks

that blows, oh well. Whats my next best option? xt6 stuff for a clutch or ther something better?