alexk02

Gnuman, thanks for your reply. Your first suggestion was what I tried first, but the puller did not fit in reverse. The nut goes on handily up to the point where the stud just starts showing up over the top of it. I suspect that the lower down on the stud the threads must be slighlty damaged (rusted?). I am planning to get threads restored or cleaned up with a die, while preventing stud's rotation during this procedure with cushioned vicegrips. The nut's threads are OK. Alex

JPX, thanks very much. The axle nut is 32mm for 99 Legacy. Alex

Does anyone have a good procedure for replacing front wheel bearings for 99 Legacy, manual trans.? I definitely will not be able to press the old ones out of the hub/press the new ones in. I am looking for the easy way to take off the hub assembly and take it to the shop for pressing out/in. Any suggestions, shortcuts, warnings, tools, etc. is greatly appreciated. I've ordered the new bearing from 1stSubaruParts.com. Do I need to ask the shop doing the pressing to add greace to these bearings? Thanks, Alex

Just noticed - Hess stations in NJ sell 10% ethanol. It is a bit cheaper, but the mileage is worse compared to Sunoco (I am talking about regular gas with 87 octane). In my 99 Legacy wagon (MT, 2.2l) I normally get around 300 miles on 3/4 tank. With 10% ethanol it was about 275 miles. It is in mostly highway driving and I keep it under 70 to save gas.

Folks, need help in diagnosing the sound. The car is 99 Legacy Wagon, manual transmission, 184K miles. It sounds like "whoom, whoom, whoom..." at low speed (10-15 MPH). Sort of grinding, appears mostly as if from the front, driver side. Less pronounced when going straight on flat surface. Slightly less pronounced when making LEFT turn. More pronounsed when the road tilts left or during RIGHT turn. In other words when there is more pressure or load on the left side. At higher speeds all those sounds become sharper, almost like banging, especially when the road makes very gradual RIGHT turn. Almost disappears when the road makes very gradual LEFT turn. Almost equally loud and sharp when making a sharp turn either LEFT or RIGHT at medium (20-30 MPH) speed. I was conned into replacing transmission (shame on me). It was a used trans., did not change anything, just a rip-off. I replaced both front axles myself (from CV axles - rebuilt) - no change. Is it the wheel bearing? How to check for sure? Is it the drive shaft? I hate changing parts, although given the mileage, the axle replacement was probably not a total waste. Much appreciate any advice. Alex

LosDios, in my previous post (the one above yours) I described what I need to fix. To recap: 1. CEL with code P0420. It list many things, bad cat converter being the most expensive, I think. 2. Possibly bad left front bearing - the sound and symptoms in previous post. 3. Electrical problem - see the previous post. Normally this type of turn signal (fast on one side and normal on the other) indicates that a light bulb is out somewhere, but I checked - all lights are working. I've been to two independent mechanics and both did poor job and lost my trust. One installed a new clutch without resurfacing the flywheel despite of my explicitly reminding him to do that. The other just fixed what was most beneficial to him, ignoring the real problem. That's why I am asking the fellow Subarites if anyone knows a mechanic specializing in Subarus (I don't trust dealer either, most of them are just parts changers). If there is a good mechanic working for Subaru, though, I will give him a chance. Regards, Alex

First and foremost - I need a good overall diagnostic of the condition of the car. It is a 99' Legacy wagon, 5-spd, 179K miles. What's been recently done: replaced transmission (used trans was installed) and new clutch. Also, an idling or timing sensor (the one on the upper part of the engine - visible from under the hood) was replaced. The reason for that replacement was CEL. A few weeks later CEL came back on with code P0420. My observations: 1.Last time changed spark plugs - noticed oil in plug wells, but the tips were not fouled. 2. "Whup,whup,whup" sound especially pronounced at speed when making even the slightest right turn. heard also when going straight, but the road surface has a slight tilt to the left. - I suspect wheel bearing, because I don't hear clicking when making sharp right turn. Tried rocking the wheel vertically and horizontally while the car is on stands - no play, solid. Tried moving the front drive axle back and forth - the left (driver side) had about 4mm play, while the right one had none. 3. Electrical: right turn signal flashing rapidly, left - normally. I checked all the lights on the car - they ar fine. Regards, Alex

Can anyone recommend a knowlegeable Subaru mechanic in New Jersey (New Brunswick area)? Thanks, Alex

While changing brake pads, noticed the piston rubber seal in one rear caliper (disc brakes front and back) was torn. The piston was not frozen - C-clamp pushed it back to make room for the new pads. Question: does anyone sell the new rubber seal or it's better to buy a remanufactured caliper? 1st Subaru parts is preferable or Pep Boys or equivalent would be good too? Thanks, Alex

Now I got it. Thanks, Chux. Alex

I thought that struts do not add to height of the vehicle, just facilitate shock absorbtion. The springs, on the other hand, are the ones that keep the shocks at about the middle of their travel, so that it is the springs that will support the car body higher up (in addition to any lift kit which basically adds shims to various points of suspension/drivetrain/body contacts.

LosDios, still waiting for those pics. No problems with tires rubbing against innner fender or splash guards during tight turns/compressions or you did some modifications? So the lift is entirely due to taller tires, while all OB struts are doing is allowing to mount those tall tires? Otherwise everything is stock?

And a picture would be nice. Alex

Shady, this legacy lift kit you are talking about - will it work for 1999 Legacy Wagon (not Outback), 5-spd? Alex

99 Legacy 5spd California emissions. When changing spark plugs, noticed quite a bit fresh oil in the spark plug wells and the long cylindrical rubber part of the wire that actually connects to the plug was quite covered with it. The firing tips of the plugs and the threads were OK. The engine was using oil, but I thought it was due to the external leak (probably crank or cam seals), jusdging by the drips under the car and the smell of buring oil on the exhaust pipe. As for drivability - a bit sluggish, but not markedly different from norm. CEL has been on for a wile (on/off) with codes 1507 and 420. Any recommendations? Very concerned about the oil in the spark plug wells. Thanks, Alex

Heikki, thanks, I will try your suggestion. I'm in East Brunswick, Middlesex Co.

SEA#3, first time CEL appeared a few months ago and perodically has been going on/off with a few days intervals. Recently it's been more on than off. No change in drivability. Finally I got the tool and checked the codes. (P0420 and P1507) My commute to work is at least 1 hr, but several times per week I do short trips (~2 miles each way) in the evenings. When starting on cold mornings the car engine does rev up to 2500-2800 rpm for 15-20 seconds, then drops down to 1500-1800. The normal (warmed up) idle is somewhere around 800-900 rpm. The car is 99 Legacy, MT, 168K mi. THe car was bought used. Judging by the air filter type - it is a California edition. I live in NJ. Alex

At the recent oil change found a light deposit of mayo-like looking substance on the shoulder of the oil-filling pipe. This is a 99 Legacy Wagon, 2.2L, manual trans., 166K miles. When I bought it in Oct, 2003 with 127K mi, I startet using synthetic oil and still use it. There is oil seepage from I think the rear part of the head gaskets, that I intend to take care of this summer. Any clues at what this substance means?

LosDiosDeVerde86, what FWD fuse are you talking about? This is an AWD car with manual transmission. Can you explain it so I understand what you mean, please?

I have 99 Legacy L wagon and want to change tires on factory 15" wheels from original 195/60-15 to 195/65-15. As far as the wheel clearance, I found out from the good people on this forum, I should not have any problems. My concern is the spare. I presume the standard spare will no longer be suitable (with slightly bigger tire diameter), so I think to buy another standard 15" wheel and mount the same 195/65-15 tire on it - to match the rest. The question is: will it fit into the spare tire well? I wonder of OBW has the same size spare wheel well as regular Legacy?

MtSmiths and all that replied - thanks. So if done as you say, with engine thoroughly warmed up prior to this procedure, the entire block (including the radiator of course) will be flushed? My only concern is that the 50% of the water in the system (I presume that the engine block will contina 1/2 of all the coolant mix) will be just plain tap water from the hose, not the recommended distilled water. I think the only way to drain the whole system completely would be to drain the radiator through the petcock and the engine block through the two drain openings covered with nuts requiring hex wrench. The size of the hex bit - is what I am trying to find out. AK

For 99 Legacy (2.2l MT) to drain the block - two plugs must be unscrewed using hex bit. Does anyone know hat size is it? 10mm or 12mm? Also is this the best way to drain the block? Thanks in advance. Alex

LosDiosDeVerde86, are you using any lift kit or spacers or any other mods to fit those wheels/tires to your car? I thought of replacing my 195/60/15 tires with 195/65/15 for softer rude and a smidgen more ground clearance. I know 95-99 Outbacks use 205/70/15 tires, but they have taller suspension.

Trace the hot (red or not solid black) wire to the starter (solid black is usually the ground return). Make sure trans in in P or N if auto. If manual you'll have to depress clutch. Use a thick wire to connect 12v on the batter to the terminal on starter to which that hot wire is attached. Disclaimer: I have not tried this, but it makes sense thinking about it.

Heikki, sorry I don't have it handy, but call www.1stsubaruparts.com and ask them if they have it for your car. I remember it was $13-$15 or so. I am happy with the prices and expertise I get from these guys.