kevinC

I opened mine up and found broken solder joints on my 1990 legacy. resoldered them and everything was fine.

I used some short lengths of chain and some all thread. I had the problem of the spring compression tools being to bulky to fit properly.

Looks like a couple of lines and a few bolts and the whole box will drop out. Any suggestions on how to check the valve.

Have been caught wondering were all that gas was coming from. The pressurized tank will push fuel through the fuel pump by the gallons.

I was thinking maybe the normal wear from the clinder walls of the compressor and possibly other wearing items inside the compressor have slowly plugged the filter over the last 200,000. Got to try something or I am going to lose the clutch or something else from exsessive cycling. I have a new 30 pound cylinder of 134a and am ready to try something.

sounds good. no sraining or sounds of over pressurizing. Really leaning towards a long vacuum and a new filter.

Only thought was to unscrew the gas cap. This will depressurize the tank.

I just used the sprayer from an empty windex bottle to suck my master cylinder resevoir dry. Worked very well and very quickly.

Every time I lost a cylinder it was an injector. And it felt like I was driving a Paint shacker. started happing around 230,000.

The bigger hose on the compressor(hot gas) is slightly cool and slightly sweating. The small line(High pressure liquid) is very hot. Seems to be worse after long idles. I think the evaporator is turning into a big block of ice. I think I will try replacing the filter at this point. Also checked and cleaned the coil through the blower motor resistor hole, everything seems to be clean now. I think there has to be a restriction somewhere, I have never seen a unit equalize so slowly after shutoff. Has to be the filter or the expansion valves. At least I know the check valves are working great inside the compressor.

I thought those things were only on deloreans.

When I Rev the engine up the high side wants to climb up in the neighborhood of 350+ while the low side sucks down until it cuts out around 30. At idle it will short cycle with the blower at low speed but seems to do alot better with the blower speed on max. With the blower at low settings it will short cycle about ever minute, sucking the low side down till the switch is made. With the blower at high speed it will run ok at idle. I just finished cleaning the evaporator coil and it was about 30% blocked. This may help but I think either the filter is clogged or the expansion valve is not functioning properly. Also once the ac is shut off how long should it take to equalize? Also it will stop cooling completely if I let it idle for a long while. I think it is icing up and triping the thermo switch. I also apologize for starting a new thread but I couldn't find the old one.

I think I might have a restriction somewhere in the system. It takes several minutes to slowly equalize pressure once the ac is shut off. Do these cars have a fixed orfice or are they variably controlled with a thermo bulb. Also wondering if filter dryer might be plugged?

Had same problem on my 96. Soldered in a new pigtail and that cured the problem. mine was pretty burnt looking. cost around 3 bucks.

Also short cycles at idle, but the cycle time is alot longer. Maybe around 30 seconds. pressures seem stable while at idle. (Not kicking out on high pressure). I have not shorted out the high pressure switch yet. I will try that tommorrow.

As I drive down the road the a/c cycles on and off about every three seconds. I shorted out the low pressure cut off switch on the filter dryer and the problem is still there. I suspect it might be the evaporation thermal switch but I hate to pull out the evaporator to check this. Has anybody had similar issues. 96 legacy 2.5. Also if I turn the blower on high and roll down the windows it seems to real help the problem. I have also checked 134a pressures and everything seems to be normal.

You can buy a boot kit from napa(I prefer the blue ones) and completely dissassemble it and clean it. If you shift it to one side the large ball bearings will come out and you can clean it very thoroughly.

The black connectors when hooked together will flash your codes. If no codes are logged there will be a steady flash. If the light goes dim it sounds like power is being limited to the ecm. The ecm has its own power supply inside. (think 12 to 5). the ecm pulls apart fairly easy. you might look for cracked or melted solder joints on the ecm. The ecm is under the dash by the connectors. gold box 4x6 . also ground to the ecm. Also do you have a good 14volts while the car is running. check all body grounds also. Good luck ((1990 legacy 228,000))

IT shakes like a paint mixer. I had to pull it with a set of pliers as hard as I could to get that sucker out. Also remove you fuel tank cap or it will pressurize the system and bleed gas forever. I had to remove the spark plug for that cylinder to remove all the gas that had made it into the cylinder. The car had set for two days and still sprayed me with gas. had old cloths and a good set of glasses. entire job took less than 10 min.

Done it in my 96 legacy, had to shave a little on the inside door skin and drill a few holes but was not that bad. couple of hours. the driver side door was it. it will unlock the rest. MCM electronics was where I bought my actuator.

WOW!!!! Here in indiana I just pay $28 dollars a year for plates and registration. Anyway how about the purge solenoid.

It is showing around 3,000 ohms. The good ones are around 12 ohms. Just can't decide on what to with it. For the most part it has been trouble free. Change the oil about ever 10k and add gas.(not very often on the gas). I guess I will hit the junk yard in the morning and pick up a used one.

Lost #2 injector about 2 months ago. This morning I lost #4. I have 228,000 miles on my 1990 2.2 legacy. I guess my question is, is this just normal wear? Also should I go with oem or after market. I saw that Venom sold them. Last time I went with a Junk yarder for $40 and it seems to be doing ok.

what is techron??? and my gas tank had two drain plugs on it. one on each side. If you think you have something in the tank.

The boots keep out contamination(dirt,water,brake dust). the pins should be cleaned very well and then a small amount of anti seize for lubrication. and if i remember correctly the boots have different ends. you need to put the correct end in the caliper first. Then slide the pin in. if all is working well the pin should easily slide back and forth through the caliper. if the pin binds or sticks your pads will wear uneven and worst case maybe warp a rotar.