kevinC

Transmission flush sounds like you best choice to me.

on my MAF the solder joints where cracked where the sensor and heater soldered into the board. I was able to pop the little 2/2 cover off and resolder the connections. Then I used black RTV to reseal the cover back on. May be total different on a 92 model.

My type of MAF was JECS(black) it is supposed to have a more problems than the hitichi. Also have you tried to monitor fuel pressure. I ran about ten feet of hose from a tee I put right after the fuel filter. Got the hood to close with out pinching it and ran it inside the drivers side window. Got a lot of strange looks but it worked well.

MAF SENSOR, had similar problem. ran great 99% of the time and about once or twice a week it would act up. usually just die or if i could keep it running it would act very chuggy(like on 2 cylinders). Soon as i would turn the key off and then back on it was fine for days. (90 legacy 227,000 miles) HAD a post recently and legacy 777 steered me in the right direction. also no codes would be thrown.

still running great with no problems!!!!!!

I have had the expansion valve leak on 1990 legacy, it would leak out overnight. it is located inside the dash. and also there is a small threaded plug on the bottom of the compressor (calsonic compressor)that was barely leaking. Use soappy water and also look for oily spots around the lines and check the compressor clutch to see if it is wet(oily).

Strangly enough mine died alot around long or sharp right hand corners and also alot at lights(highway lights are he worst. nothing like people zipping around you at 60 MPH) it would also die just going down the highway. I think it had to do with the vibration or maybe the way the body was flexing. I have only driven mine a couple of days and have not really tested it throughly. But the MAF sensor located right after the air filter (should have 4 or so wires going to it) seems to have been the problem. There was a broken solder joint on the small board that the sensor plugs into. Also does it start right back up.

For a temporary fix you could bypass the core(will have no heat). no comment on the stop leak.

If you don't mind the extra money I would go with stock.

To reset unhook battery cable overnight??? Also day 2 went Great.

Day one and it seems to be running great! I noticed when I started it this morning it was alot smoother than normal. Still to early to tell. but I will keep my fingers crossed.

Does a failing MAF usually throw any codes. I just got the MAF put back together and am now waiting for the silicone dry, will probably test tommorrow. Really hope this is it.

I have the black jecs

Disassembled the MAF and found a cold solder joint on main board(broken eyelet). I will resolder all questionable joints and try. This is the most promising thing so far. thanks for the direction

yes i had a couple of codes early on. one was knock and the other was puge solenoid. but i have fixed them both and have not had the check engine light come on since(month or so ago). and it dies 3 to 4 times a week. does the maf throw a code or is there a way of checking it.

Have been chasing problem for several months. Have changed fuel pump, knock sensor, purge solenoid, drained fuel tanks, monitored fuel pressure for weeks. I have 250,000 miles on this car and have never really had any problems to speak of. Then I got the bright idea of pulling of the intake and cleaning it. I do not know if I caused the problem or it was a coincedence. But now about ever 30 miles or so it just dies. if I catch it just right i can prolong it by thottling the excellerator but just for a few seconds. Then all i have to do is turn the key off and back on and it is fine for days. Fuel pressure stays at around 35psi during the events so i have eliminated fuel. The car runs great except for these episodes. With gas prices as they are i would really like to keep it. But this car really is a hazard. any help would be greatly appreciated.