Mac

Good info to know. No, I haven't checked the spring pin. I know nothing about transmissions and took the car to a supposedly reputable shop. They said the tranny was toast and to junk the car even though it's only reverse that is inoperative. But given this info, I need a second opinion from someone I can point in the spring pin direction. Few shops have Subafluent mechanics here because there aren't many 'Rus.

Thanks. I picked up a parts '84 awhile back with a funky body but a reasonably good engine and an okay 2WD tranny. I thought I got it primarily for the engine. Never thought about reverse going out on my 4WD D/R tranny! Actual worst case scenario is just fix the clutch and not worry about reverse until I find a real replacement. Just push it backwards when necessary. While I've got your ear, what 4-speed will fit my '84. I've heard just '83 and '84 because clutch plate was smaller in '82, '81. (200mm vs 225mm). Correct or bum gouge?

I thought the neutral safety switch was only on cars with automatics, not manual transmissions.

You should do a search or contact Edrach. He figured out what resistors were needed to replace each section and had a source for them. It was a total replacement for that nichrome wire.

This is a worst case scenario question. My transmission is toast on my '84 GL Wagon D/R 4-spd. I'm trying to locate a reasonably priced replacement but may not. All those dang transmissions are up in the the snow belt!!! So ... I need the car working for work. I can find a transmission for an '84 2WD. Has anyone taken one of these and put it in a 4WD? I'm thinking that I can put the 2WD transmission in and keep the car working until such time as I find a real replacement transmission.

Those might be aftermarket foglights on there already. I have an '84 GL 4x4 D/R and it doesn't have factory fogs. Agree you should be concerned if your headlamps are dim. They shouldn't be. Sounds like a problem that needs rectifying before proceeding. You can use any old volt meter to check voltages going to the headlamps. Might just be a ground wire problem but you want to be sure you don't have a mass of wires heating up and getting ready to case a problem in your wiring harness.. Harbor Freight has some decent fog lights with glass lenses. Pair on sale for $7.99 until end of the month if you have a Harbor Freight near you. If all else fails, part that '84 GL 4x4 out and sell me the tranny cheap.

Actually it's for an '85 but it may be the same thing. $13.03??!!! Holy cow! Shipping's $8. Thanks for the number. I'm think I'm going to try to get one of those "Help!" parts to fit, even if I have to shave it. I'll let you know if it works.

Find a console from an '81 in the junkyard, sedan or wagon. The angle is different so you'll have room for the length and facia can be cut for the new radio. The radio will be facing upwards. Once you see it, you'll know exactly what I'm talking about. There are a number of threads discussing this problem with '84s. Search using "84 radio console" as your search terms and you ought to find the threads.

There's a little plastic/nylon piece that holds a rod that opens a flap under the dash to let the heat in from the heater. It's under the dash and attached to temp control things. It's like one of those plastic moulding tacks but has a U-shape on one end that holds the rod that connect to the flap. Has anyone found a replacement for these other than a jy? I saw some various rod holder pieces in a "Help!" package at the local parts store but it said they were made for GM and Chrysler and they didn't look like they'd snap into the hole. I was trying to fit an electrical tie in there but can't seem to loop it around with my big mitts.

Thanks for the good news! It's new, I got it cheap and I wanted to put it in my EA81 which has a questionable distributor that I've been siliconing but still won't start after a heavy rain. Can I use the transistor ignition and coil on the EA81 too? Would I just plug the vac outlet for retard?

Hello Gang! It's Mr. Quizmaster time! Hitachi Distributor: D4H9-01910 Has vacuum outlets for both Advance and Retard Hitachi Transitor Ignition: E12-48 Where's it from? What years can I use it on?

$500 is about the going rate. In the meantime, you can rent them separately from U-Haul. Budget won't rent them without a truck rental.

Actually, that's not correct. I work in a job which requires me to tow my vehicles and I have tow bars on my '85 GL Wagon, '85 DL Sedan and '84 GL Wagon. I use Roadmaster brackets and tow bars. If you have manual steering you have to use a rubber tie down to anchor the steering wheel so it's doesn't turn. Not necessary if you have power steering. And the bumpers on the 'Rus aren't that sturdy. The brackets on the '85 mount to the tie downs and the bumper and I have snapped both bumpers on the '85s when making turns towing it that were just too tigh and on a downward slope. I just checked Roadmaster's site and they say they don't make a tow bar bracket for the XT6. http://www.roadmasterinc.com/ Best, Mac

Thanks folk. Guess I've got more than one problem then. Tried again to slip it into reverse with engine off and all I'm getting is fourth gear. Never rains but it pours ...

Yep, worn CV boots is another Sube fact of life. You'll get different answers on whether to swap boots or just change out the CV. Personal choice and different schools of thought. BTW, you mentioned a Hayne's manual coming. It's better than nothing (in most cases), but if you plan to do serious repairs, forget Haynes, forget Chilton. A set of factory service manuals will come up on the sales section from time to time, as well as the infamous "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive," which also can be found in most libraries.

Dealer part?? HAHAHAHAHAHAHA! You're on the wrong board. A function of this board is workarounds to dealer parts. Fix it (if you do, share the knowledge, another function of the board) or junkyard part ... but since it's a genetic defect, the one you get at the jy may be just as bad. Or you could go to the dealer and get another genetically defective one that works initially. If your A/C-heater fan switch works on speeds 1 and 2, I'll be surprised. Another genetic defect. Resistor block nichrome wire breaks easily.

If you want to keep the console intact, that's pretty much it. Another option is to use a saw to cut a hole in the console and slip in whatever radio you wish, which is what a number of folk have done, myself included. I snagged a console from an '81, cut a hole in it for a radio/cassette player and put it in my '84.

If any of the turn signals are flashing, the problem isn't the flash relay (located in the fuse box usually). What you're experiencing, I believe, is a standard genetic defect of Subarus. On both my '85s, my '84 and, IIRC, my '87, the same occurs. But my right signal works and it's the left that buzzes and doesn't flash until I kind of a massage it into working by moving the t/s lever up or down a smidgeon. Maybe someone else can offer a solution. Me, I've just to learn to live with the little quirks amid of the overall greatness of the 'ru.

Nope. Tried this with engine off. Do you mean the screeching could be something other than release/throwout bearing, e.g. bent shifter fork? Right before I couldn't get it back into reverse I was pumping the pedal. First few times it worked and I was able to get it into gear. Then ... not ... and screeching cats.

... I'm pretty sure it's clutch related rather than tranny related. Here's the timeline: Clutch was slipping so I adjusted the clutch cable. It started grabbing great. Shortly thereafter it started getting harder and harder to get it into reverse. No grinding, just tough getting it into gear. Also, I could hear a slight metal-on-metal noise with the vehicle in neutral and the clutch out. If I pushed the clutch in slightly, the noise would disappear. I assumed I overadjusted the clutch cable but was too busy to mess with it. A few days later I couldn't get the car in reverse, though clutch was fine, grabbing well and all four forward gears work great. The slight metal-on-metal noise became a bit louder but then suddenly I push in or let up on the clutch and it sounds like a cat fight under my hood. Clutch grabbing well still for forward gears. So ... I think it's the release bearing at the root of the problem. Anyone want to confirm based on info? I've never changed a clutch and am not going to start now but I've got a mechanic I trust who will use parts I order. So what am I going to need. It's a 4WD, D/R, 4-spd '84 GL Wagon. Tracking down parts for it, IPA says the kit contains 225mm clutch disc, pressure plate/clutch cover, release bearing (but no clips), clutch tool and no pilot bearing. Auto Parts World says no kits but other stuff plus release bearing with clips, and pilot bearing -- choice of sealed, unsealed. Any and all help appreciated!

I'm not familiar with that year but I'll pass along what I generally understand about the situation. One of the fans governed by thermo-sensors located in the radiator. It the coolant reaches a certain temp, the sensors activate the fan. When the temp drops below a certain point, it stops. If you activate the air conditioner, a fan usually comes on automatically. If your fans are working and the engine isn't overheating, it doesn't sound like you have a problem. If they didn't work or the engine kept overheating, you'd have a problem. Make sure you check your coolant regularly. The water will evaporate, the antifreeze won't.

Ditto on ShawnW's suggestion. That's exactly what I'm doing on my '84 wagon. Found one of those console's at the jy. Cut it and fit it midweek and was going to wire it up today but Matthew is pouring rain all over the place. I'm waiting until it's dry. Can't have a hurricane party ... will have to settle for a tropical storm get together.

HELP!!!! My local junkyard just towed in an '84 GL Wagon. It has cruise control and if I can find the magic box, I can swap it and perhaps solve my problem. Where is the CC brain on this vehicle? Only difference between it and mine is my CC button is green and to the lower right of the steering wheel. The CC button on the jy GL is on the column. Thanks!

Ditto on this. Same thing with my '85 GL. Check the alternator.

So ... does anyone have any recommendations pro/warnings con for a high flow after market OEM electric radiator fan? My EA81 main cooling fan (electric) is about go and I need to replace it. I have A/C and can't live without it here in Louisiana. One fan isn't enough to keep that EA81 cool, even on cool days (72). ------ Has anyone added a push fan setup in addition to standard fans. Does it help? Any drawbacks? Flex-a-lite has some 1250 cfm singles/2500 cfm duals fans ... seem a bit pricey though.