DaveT

I have an oportunity to buy a 1987 wagon - looks like a Loyale. SPFI 2WD non-turbo automatic <90K miles, garaged all its life. Here is what makes it interesting: NO RUST! $1000.00. Has anyone ever converted / attemped to convert a 2WD to 4 WD? I have 2 complete drive trains for the 4WD wagons, so I have all the parts. My experience with 86-92 models is everything is pretty much there, all you do is bolt on the optional equipment that is missing. If this is the case, much less work than fixing the rust on my existing 4WD cars. Any thoughts? Dave PS I read about the 2.2 / 2.5 "engine upgrades" and could only think how it wouldn't be woth it on my existing rotted out cars....

Heating depends on the copper - soft copper, just bend it. Hard copper, heat it red, let it cool to room temp in air, don't quench it. It will be soft then, and need to be cleaned. I have not done the link thing here yet, but if it works like my web pages, you do this: "<IMG SRC="http://www.yourpictureurl/yourpicture.jpg">" ( remove the stuff outside of the <> characters) (inside the <> replace &quot with the double quote mark - shift single quote) The reason for NOT using a used starter from another car is that it is most likly in similar state of wear (or getting there) and you will need to do it also. Dave

Forget home depot. I can't think of anything they sell that would have a piece like that in it. Actually, I have a scrapped buss bar from a $4,000.00 Mark Levinson amplifier that I have been making them from. But here are some real ideas: Scrap yards that specialize in the more valuable metals, Copper, brass aluminium, etc. Metal suppliers - look in the yellow pages under metals or copper. This place might work: http://www.metalexpress.net/cgi-bin/index.pl?mod=catalog&ac=acDisProdList&material=Copper&form=Flat&cat=110%20%28etp%29&min=0&max=0&sid=0267e9af91bfcf535ba5e663e8c6f15d Anything 1/8" thick will work. Cut it to width, bend it, cut the ends to match length. Clamp the original "back to back" to locate holes and drill. Dave

It is the piece that holds the injector in a SPFI throttle body. Dave

I have had this problem at various times with my cars. One of the contacts in the solinoid burns away faster than the other. It is just a small thick piece of copper in the shape of an "L". I make my own and replace it. One time i found an intermittant in one of the connectors in the wiring harness - htere are a few of them. I have an LED (with a resistor) and wires that I use to find intermittants like that. One end to GND, the other end slips into the back of the connector to test. Tape the LED top the dash. Just watch it when you turn the key. Light & no starter, move it to the next connector. During the hunt for that one, I also made up a switch with a clip on one end and connector for the starter on the other. A few times I had to use it to get home. Dave

Do you still need this? Stuck on anything in particular? Dave

The AC in my 88, 90 and 92 all still work. When the 90 system started to loose cooling a bunch of years ago, I got the test dye from NAPA and put it into the system with a little added freon A longwave UV light lights up the dye so you can find the leak. It turned out that the seat for the o-ring on the sight glass on the acumulator / filter rusted and leaked. I put in a new accumulator/filter. I use a rotary compressor from an old window AC as a vacuume pump. You have to suck all of the air out of the system after repairing it. Also good to know if you got the leak sealed. More details on this if you want. Then take it somewhere and just have it charged. I buy a few sets at a time from a local bearing supply house. I get the ones rated for higher temperatures. BTW, I saw some kind of service update on the timing belts a long time ago - They changed the replace interval to 40,000 miles. It was 60,000 in the manual and I always wondered why they rarely made it! Dave

Not sure if you want to save the AC or remove it, but: I have swapped engines without discharging the AC system. Just un mount the compressor and bend / flip up and back, maybe tie in place with a wire. If you want to remove it permanently, you might need an idler for the belt. Years ago I turned spacers to allow me to use standard bearings with the idlers, so I only replace 3 +-$5.00 bearings to get new idlers. Dave

> I also just broke my Craftsman tee bar using the six foot pipe. I use a 3/4" drive breaker bar with whatever piece of pipe is handy *if* needed. A breaker bar is much stronger than a ratchet. Go to an industrial tool supply catalog like MSCdirect.com, coastal tool, Mcmaster Carr. Dave