DaveT

I just saw this post. 2 maybe / guesses: Gas in the float bowl sloshes to one side, starving the engine. (I am not familiar with the weber) Something similar to the SPFI Loyale problem wiht long hard right turns and smoke. Fixed by using 1/2" hoses from BOTH rocker covers to the intake boot.

Good start checking all the fuses. Try the fusible links. Try un hooking the main alternator output wire. My 92 has the annoying power belts. I also have a set of the non power belts from a GL. That will solve the #$%^% power belts problems.

The little hole is meant to drain water from the muffler. Probably only matters if you make short trips that don't get the muffler hot enough to boil it off.

Here is how to replace them with Toyota solenoids: http://users.adelphia.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html

Support the header pipe with a jaclk or blocks, etc. so it doesn't hang on the studs while removing & reinstalling. Buy new studs and nuts if the originals are rusty looking, or be ready to go buy them. Take it easy when removing the nuts (probably the studs will turn) Get the penetrating oil in there good. Sometimes backing out then in again helps free things up. But sometimes they strip. If it does, about $50.00 at NAPA or similar gets you a Helicoil kit to fix it. Anti seize on reassembly helps prevent future trouble. I am about ready to try a stainless steel solution for the stupid studs. It will probably involve helicoils though, because I have been unable to find metric stainless studs or threaded rod with the pitch used on the studs.

That and if it leaked out enough, you want to get the air an moisture out also. I posted a description of how to make your own vacuume pump for little cost a while back. It is also a good idea to find the leak. Look for oil around the fittings and AC components. Or put in the dye made for finding leaks.

I go with this one. Both my loyales have this right now. The noise is not clean and sharp like sticky lifters. (I have heard that ocasionally over the years) It does have some pop to it, but also some FFFt of gasses under pressure through a small hole. Not metallic. The noise is only there when the engine is under load. Cruising on the flat is not enough load to make it really loud. A quick test: For AT: Put the car in 2nd. Hold the brake pedal w/ left foot. Apply gas with right. If it is exhaust, you will hear it. For MT: put in a middle gear. Set parking brake. Slip clutch while apply gas. Don't do this long , but it won't take long to know. Be careful in case the car moves, have room.

I never had a bearing come out. Try to clean some of the dirt off first just in case. The last time I bought a "new" CVJ I got used ones from a Subaru specialist repair / sales shop. About $40.00. Bought the boot kits, relube etc. I like to have a spare one ready to go. Really shortens up the repair time when one fails or you get lucky and find the torn boot before the clicking starts.

Could be bearing, or CVJ. Look at the boots. If they are intact, it is more likely bearings. In over 15 years, I have never had a problem with either in the rear, except 1 boot broke (on '88, in '04). Gave up on the car due to rot before it made noise... Ticking during sharp turns from the front, CVJ. Been there, done that many times. The ticking noise is the warning that a boot broke some months prior...:-\

If you connect the big wire from the batt. to the stud on the back of the alt. and get sparks, the diodes are shorted out. Drawing more current than they are rated for will do that.

Don't know about that particular oil. I have run Amsoil in all my cars. For over 20 years. 100% synthetic motor oil, with their spin on filter, air filter and bypass filter. Install the bypass filter, etc. Never changed oil again, only add to make up the inevitable loss that occurs. I have converted cars with milage from 15K to 80K. The car that was switched at 15K ran to 150K when the aged seals / head gaskets began leaking too much. All clean, no gunk, still in factory spec. for bearing clearances. I also use the Amsoil synthetic ATF and gear lube.

Runners: 01 Forrester 92 Loyale 90 Loyale 87 GL project car - adding 4WD. No rust. To replace rotting out 90 above. Parts: 88 GL (A couple things left to remove) No body, just all the parts: 88 GL 86 GL All wagons (except the Forrester).

Here is something to help with A/C repair. Find an old window air conditioner. The important part is that the compressor housing be a round cylinder. This indicates that it is NOT a piton compressor. Make note of the wiring from on/off switch to the compressor and capacitor. Note the small copper tube that goes to a very small tube. This is the output side. Note the larger tube that comes from the outdoor heat exchanger (condenser). This is the input side. At the least, install a flare fitting & adapter on the input side to match the fitting on the car system or an A/C manifold gauge set. (find on ebay) Or as a minimum, a ball valve between the compressor and the system under repair. I did this with the compressor from an old GE 5000 BTU air conditioner. It pulls a good enough vacuum to boil water at room temperature. You do have to be careful about the run time, since the compressor motor is designed to be cooled by the circulating freon, which isn't there when pulling a vacuum. When it starts to get hot, close the valve and shut it down. The valve is needed - otherwise, air will leak backwards through the compressor.

Sounds like there is a leak. If the leak tracing dye is like the stuff I used, you look for the leak in the dark with a black light. If the system was not working for a long time or open to the air while repairing, the system should be connected to a vacuume pump to remove the air and moisture before charging the system. Not a bad idea to replace the filter / dryer in that case also.

I have had a couple of u joints go bad. Symptoms were humming vibration at highway speeds. 4WD on/off changed the tone / sound of the hum. Low speeds made little to no noise. Sometimes, when parking (tight corners, etc.) 4WD would cause creaking / weird metalic noises.

This helped me remove parts from the last car I disassembled: http://users.adelphia.net/~davidtief/dynahoe.html

check this out: http://users.adelphia.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html

My soon to be retired 90 loyale had the front cat burnout. (Long story as to why). In the front cat I found only a piece of the core just about the ID of the exit pipe. Evidence of it lodged in the exit pipe sideways. Lots of crumbs in the second cat, partially blocking the core. The last mile of the trip home before I found this, it ran horribly. No power. Probably something like 1/4 throttle would seem ok. Part of the trip was up a big hill, and I ended up in first gear (3AT) to keep moving. Temp guage higher than normal. Took the exhaust apart, used a big screwdriver and removed the obstructions. (read cores & pieces) Runs fine now. Seems slightly better power wise than my 92 with functioning cats.

Sounds like you are talkinmg about plastiguage. http://www.plastigauge.co.uk/

I found it possible to get the heads bolted on with one twisted - say up at the front, and the other twisted down at the front. Makes the intake just about impossible to seal up. I found snugging the intake - not super tight, just enough to keep things aligned - while snugging the heads helped to keep everything aligned. Once the heads are not loose enough to move, loosen the intake, tourque the heads.

Back in my younger crazier days. I had a 76 4WD 4spd wagon. On the rural roads back & forth to work, I would usually be at about 10 over the speed limit at like 40MPH. And surprisingly often, some @#$ would be glued to my bumper. A quick downshift from 4th to 3rd dropped about 10MPH really quick. Results: At least once, I got someone to lock u'm up. If the tailgater stayed there, it was 90% a young woman. If the tailgater zipped around me, 90% it was a guy. Once, miles later, down the road, I saw the guy apparently writing down my tag number. - never heard anything about it. NOTE - I do not recomend this practice! I just find a safe place to pull over & let them by.

I use the lower ball joint pinch bolt removal method. The first time I work on that part of any car, I clean out the rust and use never sieze on all the bolts, holes, socket & ball joint. No problem the next time. The only bolts I found never sieze to cause me trouble with were the 4 that hold the brake rotor onto the hub- when I tourqued them to spec., they stretched, never getting to the correct foot lbs.

I bought our 86 with a bad compressor. Someone had wired the controls so that hte compressor was *always* on with any setting on the HVAC controls. I got a used one, put it on, pulled a vacuume on the system, then charged. (back then you could buy R12 in any parts store). It worked for years. The car got totaled before its time. Replacing the dryer is a good idea if the system has been in disrepair for a long time.

I thought of doing that a few years ago!! I got the o-ring cord from: MSCdirect.com I just haven't had to re-assemble the engine yet.

I only manage about 21MPG. 65 on the highway, 5 over other speed limits. Heavy on the gas, but I do roll to stops. 4 different EA82 AT 4x4 wagons, 1 carbed, 3 SPFI.