DaveT

[top quote] - That is not how digital ohmeters work / read. The 200 ohm range means the highest value of resistance that can be displayed is 200 ohms (actually 199 if you want to be picky) [bottom quote] - My readings are corrected for the meter leads. Fractional ohm resistors in series with a motor that draws around 10 Amps on full power are quite reasonable. The 4-1/2 digit meter I used can read hundreths of ohms on the 200 ohm scale. In other words it can display the diference between a 1.01 ohm and 1.02 ohm resitor. You do have to be careful about correcting for the leads and make very good connections.

I miss the reliablitiy of the push rod engines. I wouldn't mind 10 or 20 more HP over the SPFI EA82, but not at the cost of reliability. What makes the higher compression? Bore & stroke or head or both?

The post with the resistor values below 1 ohm is correct. The resistors are in series with the blower motor, and do not see 12V under normal operating conditions. (only if the motor was shorted out, or jammed so it could not turn) On the block I checked, they were .46, .6, and the small one is broken.:-\

What HP do you end up with?

That (ebay scam) is not a turbo or supercharger, its just a squirrel cage blower. They are normally rated for under 2 inches H2O air pressure, not PSI!. 1 inch H2O = 0.036127 PSI. I came across spec's on one that looks an awful lot like the ebay item, it is rated at 0.0" static air pressure for the given CFM. (No boost) Now if you electrically powered a real turbo charger compressor or a roots (supercharger) you could theoretically get rid of the lag.

Just looking for "reviews" of a few parts suppliers. OEM discount & aftermarket. Presently looking for a RT fender for an 01 Forester. Will need to do timing belts soon.

Ha! Do you have any cats? No, not anymore... Actullay, the ones that passed hung around under the car. Adding kero to diesel is done to prevent gelling. Been there, done that. (I have a diesel tractor) About 10:1 mix, not critical. Mythbusters recently did a bunch of test of various "milage improvers", including acetone. They used gauges & meters to remove the subjective stuff. The addatives made no difference, some actually worstened milage.

That is what I found the X nescisary for. The weight is supported by the 6" wide aluminum plates setting in the gutters and the 2 front verticals. The front - back inertia is handled by 8 bolts into the special stock roof rack nuts. With the X, I can grab the rack at the front and shake the entire car side to side without moving the rack relative to the car.

Yeah, I wouldn't do the duster tow now. That was when I was young and crazey and didn't have anything.

Never heard of that. Try with & without a good few times, check MPG. The other stuff is probably hard to be objective about. It might cause trouble for the cats. I have been running stale gas in my oil burning (burning so bad it killed the cats) 90 SPFI for a while now. The really bad stuff I had to mix 50 / 50 with new gas. It seems the ECU can adjust for whatever different burn characteristics the fuel has.

I re greased the gearboxes and all pivot points with synthetic wheel bearing / general purpose grease. They run better now.

There will be a whole generation of people going deaf much earlier than in the past. Hearing damage from those kind of SPLs is gradual, cumulative and permanent.

There is no switch in the compressor. My 86 FSM shows a pressure switch, states that it is main fan control. Also shows a low & high pressure switch. Those for the Hitachi A/C. The Matsu************a A/C has a trinary switch. (I think it combines the functions) Hitachi compressor is cylindrical, Matsu************a is more box / cube like.

I have no trouble towing 1000Lbs with my EA82 3AT 4WD wagon. 2" reciever hitch: http://users.adelphia.net/~davidtief/hitch.html Years ago I towed a V8 Plymoth Duster with my 76 1400CC 4WD wagon. Above 40MPH it got scary almost lost it. Obviouse warning about leaving long distances, no sudden manuvers, etc. Be very wary of long steep downhills.

I just drove the car again tonight. Not as bad as I thought. But my wife needs a little more light. We aren't as young as we were...One light seems a little dimmer / yellower than the other. I have to check the aiming. They might be just a touch low. I had the H4 systems on all my older Subarus, until the loyales went to the non standard lights. Never got in trouble with the H4 systems. My favorite was my 78 with 4 round headlights. I put 4 hi / low H4 lenses & 55/60W bulbs in them. Also had fog lights. A switch panel & relays selected different combinations for the stock Hi & lo beam switch. Nothing looked unusual - unless I put on all 8 filaments:grin: 460W.

Here are a couple pics of my roof rack. I have had 300-400 lbs on it. For long items I put an X with ratchet straps on the front, down to the tow hooks. The front part detaches with 6 pins.

What model / year is your car?

I'm looking to improve the lighting on our 01 Forrester. I don't want to use the higher wattage bulbs in the existing lenses, since the lenses are part of the poor light distribution. Has anyone seen good add on lights - fog or "low beam" like? I also looked at HID adapter kits, but don't like the idea of putting more light through so so lenses.

I made a spacer for them years ago. It was either 1/8" or 1/4" thick.

Actually, all the ECU can check is that the solenoid draws current when it is supposed to be energized. Maybe run a seperate ground wire from the solenoid if the existing one is suspect?

A few things: The stock factory AC is about 15,000 BTU. The 39A camper one is only 9000BTU. If you want it to run while stuck in traffic, you will need a huge battery, since the alternator will not put out that kind of power at idle. Converting rotational energy into electrical energy to then turn electrical energy into rotational energy will use more power than keeping it rotational all the way through. When the factory system gets ahead of the cooling load, it releases the clutch on the compressor, drawing no power.

How about this?:

13 connects to Drive on the Inhibitor SW & dash light. 14 is Neutral SW MT or Inhibitor SW for AT 15 is Clutch SW or Inhibitor SW. I could scan Wednesday. I have FSMs for 90 and 86. I wouldn't mind "trading" schematic scans for 88 and 92.

If you can't see where the oil is leaking from (I assume the case is cleaned, etc.) You could try flourescent dye and a black light. I'm not sure if there is a specific dye for oil, but with that leak rate, I don't think the A/C dye would hurt.

I am thinking of having a custom exhaust system made for my 92 Loyale: http://www.pipesmith.us/ Or maybe doing it myself. Welding isn't a problem. My main uncertatnies involve the cats. I want to make a Y pipe that goes to a flange, then a "standard" performance cat, to replace the stock Y with the built in one. From there, another flange to a second cat (assuming I need 2 because the original has 2). Then stainless to the stock muffler flange. All with flanges. All real stainless, not the crap that only lasts 6 years, or the flanges rot off because they are not stainless. SPFI So the quesations: What diameter pipe would be best? 1 or 2 cats? (I need to pass emissions) Any muffler sugestions? Not looking for loud. Cat brands worth looking at? Thank you.