DaveT

Yeah, I wouldn't do the duster tow now. That was when I was young and crazey and didn't have anything.

Never heard of that. Try with & without a good few times, check MPG. The other stuff is probably hard to be objective about. It might cause trouble for the cats. I have been running stale gas in my oil burning (burning so bad it killed the cats) 90 SPFI for a while now. The really bad stuff I had to mix 50 / 50 with new gas. It seems the ECU can adjust for whatever different burn characteristics the fuel has.

I re greased the gearboxes and all pivot points with synthetic wheel bearing / general purpose grease. They run better now.

There will be a whole generation of people going deaf much earlier than in the past. Hearing damage from those kind of SPLs is gradual, cumulative and permanent.

There is no switch in the compressor. My 86 FSM shows a pressure switch, states that it is main fan control. Also shows a low & high pressure switch. Those for the Hitachi A/C. The Matsu************a A/C has a trinary switch. (I think it combines the functions) Hitachi compressor is cylindrical, Matsu************a is more box / cube like.

I have no trouble towing 1000Lbs with my EA82 3AT 4WD wagon. 2" reciever hitch: http://users.adelphia.net/~davidtief/hitch.html Years ago I towed a V8 Plymoth Duster with my 76 1400CC 4WD wagon. Above 40MPH it got scary almost lost it. Obviouse warning about leaving long distances, no sudden manuvers, etc. Be very wary of long steep downhills.

I just drove the car again tonight. Not as bad as I thought. But my wife needs a little more light. We aren't as young as we were...One light seems a little dimmer / yellower than the other. I have to check the aiming. They might be just a touch low. I had the H4 systems on all my older Subarus, until the loyales went to the non standard lights. Never got in trouble with the H4 systems. My favorite was my 78 with 4 round headlights. I put 4 hi / low H4 lenses & 55/60W bulbs in them. Also had fog lights. A switch panel & relays selected different combinations for the stock Hi & lo beam switch. Nothing looked unusual - unless I put on all 8 filaments:grin: 460W.

Here are a couple pics of my roof rack. I have had 300-400 lbs on it. For long items I put an X with ratchet straps on the front, down to the tow hooks. The front part detaches with 6 pins.

What model / year is your car?

I'm looking to improve the lighting on our 01 Forrester. I don't want to use the higher wattage bulbs in the existing lenses, since the lenses are part of the poor light distribution. Has anyone seen good add on lights - fog or "low beam" like? I also looked at HID adapter kits, but don't like the idea of putting more light through so so lenses.

I made a spacer for them years ago. It was either 1/8" or 1/4" thick.

Actually, all the ECU can check is that the solenoid draws current when it is supposed to be energized. Maybe run a seperate ground wire from the solenoid if the existing one is suspect?

A few things: The stock factory AC is about 15,000 BTU. The 39A camper one is only 9000BTU. If you want it to run while stuck in traffic, you will need a huge battery, since the alternator will not put out that kind of power at idle. Converting rotational energy into electrical energy to then turn electrical energy into rotational energy will use more power than keeping it rotational all the way through. When the factory system gets ahead of the cooling load, it releases the clutch on the compressor, drawing no power.

How about this?:

13 connects to Drive on the Inhibitor SW & dash light. 14 is Neutral SW MT or Inhibitor SW for AT 15 is Clutch SW or Inhibitor SW. I could scan Wednesday. I have FSMs for 90 and 86. I wouldn't mind "trading" schematic scans for 88 and 92.

If you can't see where the oil is leaking from (I assume the case is cleaned, etc.) You could try flourescent dye and a black light. I'm not sure if there is a specific dye for oil, but with that leak rate, I don't think the A/C dye would hurt.

I am thinking of having a custom exhaust system made for my 92 Loyale: http://www.pipesmith.us/ Or maybe doing it myself. Welding isn't a problem. My main uncertatnies involve the cats. I want to make a Y pipe that goes to a flange, then a "standard" performance cat, to replace the stock Y with the built in one. From there, another flange to a second cat (assuming I need 2 because the original has 2). Then stainless to the stock muffler flange. All with flanges. All real stainless, not the crap that only lasts 6 years, or the flanges rot off because they are not stainless. SPFI So the quesations: What diameter pipe would be best? 1 or 2 cats? (I need to pass emissions) Any muffler sugestions? Not looking for loud. Cat brands worth looking at? Thank you.

Here is where I got some: http://www.por15.com/

I have had good luck buying used ones from a local Subaru specialist repair / used car shop. Buy boot kits, clean & regrease, etc.. My other source has been parts cars. As far as replacing the other one, only of the boots look like they are as bad as the one that failed. You don't get to save much work doing both together.

This made me think of the temperature sensor. It would screw up the ECU mixture / etc. If it were reading "normal operating temp" constantly. I don't get the smoke without finding melted insulation somewhere. Kind of hard to get smoke w/o burning something.

Moving the harness causing a change. I had a problem with one of my EA-82s a while back. After traceing & testing, etc. I found that one wire in the harness was intermittant. Bend it one way, Ok, bend the other way, open! I un taped, looked over the wire in question. Nothing obvious. But I felt a funny spot - where the wire, inside the insulation, was broken off! All the strands, at the same place. I spliced the bad spot, and all's well.

If you mean 40 Meg ohms, it will be an error - open circuit. Find the pin in the connector for the ECU that fires the solenoid in question. check with an ohm meter that you read the resistance of the solenoid or "test" resistor. Risky if you make a mistake: apply 12V to the wire, listen for the solenoid to click.

I have to say, I never thought of cleaning the MAF until I happened to see this thread. I gave the MAF in my 90 a shot of brake cleaner. The engine seems to run better cold - it was almost stalling out when put in gear (3AT), and stumbling until warmed up. After the cleaning, the engine seems much smoother. Almost seems like I have to use a little less throttle while crusing down the highway. It seems to have smoothed out my 92 also.

At about the center of the side facing the driver's seat, there is a hole in the sheet metal sheild of the ECU. The LED is visible through the hole, but it does not stick out or point out the hole.

Take a look at the lower arms, etc. for damage, bent, etc. The only adjustment is the tie rod ends. There is a jam nut against the tie rod end, and a flat on the tie rod. Loosten the nut by wrenching the end & nut. Adjust the toe in / out by turning the tie rod. Once you do a turn or 2, check the tape measures again to get an idea of which way / how far to go. If you adjust both sides, you can get the steering wheel to be straight when the car is going straight. It will probably take a test drive or 2 to get that right. Tighten the jam nuts before driving.