DaveT

Sounds like it. Time to replace the rectifier assembly. I have yet to buy an alternator. I have replaced the rectifiers, regulators, brushes, cleaned slip rings with fine sandpaper, replaced bearings.

The buttons control air valves that rout vacuum or not to various diaphragms that move flaps that rout the air. There is 1 "main feeder" vacuume line to the selector - I think it should be on the passenger side under the hood near the firewall. check that it is connected / not leaking / etc. first.

Some time ago, I came across someone who made a "seperated" intake. Forget if it was an EA81 or 82, it was a number of years ago, for airplane use. Made custom flanges and ran the coolant seperated from the intake. Had a section with hose to allow for the cool intake not expanding as much as the whole block. They claimed about 10 HP or so. I don't remember if they used the coolant passage immediatly under th throttle body to prevent icing, but I suppose you could keep that. Maybe I should attach a couple of my thermocouples to the intake and see how warm it is. Or better yet, measure the temperature of the intake mixture itself.

Cam seals are easy. remove the cam pully, there are 2 bolts that hold a piece that holds the seal. There is an o-ring that seals the piece, and it goes bad about the same time as the seal. I have not replaced a front main, haven't had trouble with them. Maybe if youu're over 180K miles. Over 100K, probably good to do the oil pump orings.

Hmm, Every once in a while I've noticed the idle bouncing up & down at a rate close to that. Very rarely. Next time I'll have to time it. Think about what else could combine to cause the weird idle. Yes, the ECU computer is simple. The check for the solenoid is some kind of check for current when it's energized. If you disconnect it, it will trigger the CEL, but only when the ECU tries to turn it on. (Actually, I saw this while troubleshooting the EGR solenoid, (I put a monitor LED on it) but it should be the same.) I know from experience, that the O2 sensor can go bad in a way that the ECU does not see as an error, and the front catalytic converter ends up bad. This is a guess - maybe the dealer code is "figured" in software by some combo of signals. I have thought about reverse engineering an ECU. In a few years, I could do a megasquirt, since the cars will be old enough to skip emmissions.

Sorry, the cap will come off. Then you can get at the locking device, nut, etc... The cap should be a stamped sheetmetal cup wiht a ridge rolled into the edge. The ridge should be up against the brake drum if the cap was installed properly.

Studs. Bearing cap / cover. Tap lightly, sideways with a hammer while turning the drum, it will work it's way out.

Look here: http://ramengines.com/_wsn/page2.html Expensive, yes. Available, yes.

Wow, those bring back memories. I had a red 76, and later a blue 78 like those. First & second cars I bought. The 76 was 13 years old when it rusted in half.

Here is a *street legal* set of add on low beam HID lights: http://www.suvlights.com/product_info.php?products_id=46&osCsid=685950d0c15e445445a9ce0c2acbcb7b I am thinking of installing them where the front turn signals are. My preliminary check looks like they could fit there. Have to do a little more measuring. Relocate the turn signals into the side / front marker lenses by using yellow bulbs like the Forester. Reasons: The existing headlamps have improper lensing for HID - too much light goes into oncoming driver's eyes. Existing headlamps do not have the nice even wide beam pattern with *sharp* cutoff - the proper lensing. The above kit is street legal. The existing high beams aren't too bad, so either use the existing halogens, 2x wattage halogens, or one of the conversion HID kits for the high beams only. I have seen more than a few cars with the cheap add ons (blue tinted halogens @ 2x wattage or HID "conversions") vs the cars that have the real HID lighting. I find the real ones easier on my eyes when they are oncoming. The real ones have the nice wide beam when driving / riding. As our existing headlamps age, they are getting worse (the reflectors mostly) I'd like to figure out some combo that would provide an upgrade and get away from the sole source part. It would be cool if I could find a driving light of similar size - possibly could be mounted together with the low beams in place of the OEM headlights. Wire them so that both are on for high beam.

You remind me of a puddle 20 years ago... 76 4WD wagon 1400 4speed. On a stretch of highway I travelled frequently. It had rained & whatever, caused a dip in the 3 lanes of highway to be about 6" deep, by looking at the wheels of the cars ahead as they went through. probably 30-50 feet long. No one too close to me, so I poped into 4WD, droped to 3rd, floor the gas. I forget what that car would do wound up in 3rd gear, but probably 50 + or -. Went straight through the puddle pedal down. I remember glancing in the rearview mirror, seeing a wall of water on either side of the car shooting skyward. I was out of the puddle before the water came down. Shifted back to 4th gear, continued to my destination. Didn't bother the engine or anything.

Man, is that weird. WAG = wire or pin intermittant in the harness is a possibility. The engine wireing harness is in that area. I had a vexing ECU code in one car that turned out to be 1 wire in the engine harness that was broken. But the insulation had no sign of the break. Discovered it by accident, just the right bending caused make / break of the circuit. After un taping the harness, I found the break - ever so slight bump in the insulation, and it could be felt.

Not sure why I've never had this problem... Over 18 years of Subaru driving & maintaining. I do use the lug nuts from the older 76 & 78 wagons - they are the fancy chrome ones that cover the stud so the end doesn't get rusty. I put grease or anti seize on the threads - but not the part that hits the rim. Never let anyone put wheels on the car but me, or retourque after. I have an extra set of rims so the tire guys don't get to touch the car. Things are in the works, I should soon have a tire changing machine. I'll finally be able to get the right length tire valves installed!

Slower charge rate is better for the batteries, and efficiency. 220AH x 120V = 26400WH = 26.4KWH. 26.4KWH at $0.18/KWH = $4.752 per charge. The charge efficiency is something around 30-50%, so increas the per charge cost by 40%, it is arouund $6.65. Cycle life of these batteries is 300-500 cycles. 5 year life is under ideal conditions - no or few or very shallow discharge cycles. The suspension and brakes need to be upgraded to handle the extra weight. My main worry about driving a car full of batteries is where the acid might end up in an accident. All over the driver & passengers. From my looking around a while back, motor controllers & motors were in the low to mid $1000. for each. 120V was the minimum ok voltage. Higher gives better performance, etc. Don't get me wrong, I'm not anti-electric car, Just trying to be realistic. I might still convert one someday. There is such a large demand for batteries with more capacity, lighter weight, smaller volume for so many applications that I doubt anyone could "cover up" or stop a real development / improvement. These can help with surges that most batteries have trouble with: http://www.maxwell.com/ultracapacitors/products/large-cell/bcap0650.asp

The stock roof racks I have removed had Rivnuts on the outer rails. They used blind ones. Rivnuts are sort of like pop rivets, but leave a threaded hole for a machine screw to got into. The installation tool uses a tough threaded rod to pull the rivnut like the "nail" of a pop rivet. After the pull, you unscrew the rod, and you have a nice strong anchor point.

All of the CVJs I have rebuilt (over about 18 years) had plenty of grease on the working parts. Lots in the boot also. It must "circulate" around in there somehow. It's pretty thin at room temp, must get thiner heated up under load. I always buy used ones & rebuilt them, or get used ones off parts cars.

A few notes / thoughts: I used a zerk on my utility trailer to fill the space the bearings run in. The expansion of the grease pushed the seals out. You need the air in there to act as a cushion. I use synthetic in everything now. Drilling the spindles - if you mean the CVJ shaft - will take special equipment. They are hardened steel, like bearing races, at least on the outer "layer" (case hardened).

Here is some info on *real* alt. energy cars: http://www.nesea.org/transportation/tour/ The biggest problem with electric cars right now is cost of batteries & efficency of batteries. I went to one of the Tour de sol events a while back. "Regular guys" have converted cars to electric. You can buy motors, adapters, controllers and everything. For basic getting started decent performace they want 120VDC for the main motor. The most affordable battery for such a conversion is 220AH flooded cell lead acid batteies. Commonly used in lots of industrial equipmnet and golf carts. I use 6 in my electric lawn tractor. Basic quality ones are about $70.00 each. It takes 20 to get 120V, so that's $1400.00 for the battery. If you take the best care possible, lowest possible cycles, lowest possible cycle depth, ideal conditions - even better - never draw current from them - they are good for about 5 years. Sometimes they go longer, but the AH capacity is noticably reduced, so they really aren't the same as new ones. What this means is that the operating cost of an electric car should include the cost of the batteries as well as the electricity to charge them. If electrics do catch on, the government will find a way to collect the significant taxes that they would loose out on. I do like the electric tractor - low maintanance, always read to go, no warm up, no noise. But it costs more because I have to buy batteries periodically. A new set is $420.00 every 5-6 years. I have thought about converting a Loyale wagon. It'd loose the hauling capacity. Have to beef up the suspension just to haul the batteries!

The thermostat is the thing that controls the temperature of the engine. Only indirectly effects the heater. The engine is supposed to be about 190 degrees F. I have noticed that very cold (like under 20F) will keep the engine slightly cooler than on a 70-80 degree day. Like a needle width or so. I don't think that difference would be terrible noticable in the heater output - by feel. If the engine thermostat is stuck open, the engine will not get up to operating temperature. This causes higher fuel use because the ECU will be running rich to make the engine run smooth while still cold. If it is run rich enough, long enough, it could eventually kill the catalytic converter. There is no thermostat in the heater control system. All 4 EA82 4x4 wagons I have owned had good heat. Sure, it takes a little longer to warm up in very cold weather. In the morning here, I start the car, drive downhill top the highway. A little over 2 miles. By 1-1/2 I can get silghtly less cold *recirculated* air on blower speed 1 or 2. Once I am up the ramp, switch to speed 4. Once I get warm, switch to fresh air, slower blower speed. Not scientific - I never had reason to take readings, etc. BTW starting from a garage at 40 F makes a huge improvement in the warm up of the inside of the car time.

If the temperature gauge shows normal engine temperature, no. It would increase the risk of overheating. Very bad. If the engine temperature is below normal, get a new thermostat. This reminds me of a mod I do on my EA82s. There is a vacuum actuator that opens a flap door to draw outside air for the heating system. The only setting that does not use outside air is AC MAX. I added a switch and a vacuum solenoid to allow my choice of recirculated or outside air in all modes. It allows you to get more warmth while the engine is getting up to temperature. Also, if your'e leaking oil on the manifold, you don't have to smell it so much. It would improve heat output, since the reciculated air is not as cold as the out side air.

3rd item down on: http://www.randi.org/jr/2006-05/052606action.html Water is not fuel. It is already burned Hydrogen. Making Hydrogen & Oxygen from water takes significantly more energy than you get from burning the resulting Hydrogen & Oxygen. The welding torch thing is very old tech. They never caught on - F'n dangerous, and made bad welds. Hydrogen & Oxygen stored in the same container (implied by the idea of HHO gas, which is improper use of chemical syntax) is EXTREMLY unstable. Worse than Acetylene. No surprise the tip of the torch isn't hot - the burning is taking place outside of the tip. The gas moving through the tip would keep it cool. These things go in cycles. Crazy claims by scammer / dupe / nieve person. Clueless reporters fall for it. Eventually gets debunked. Never goes anywhere. Conspiracy theoreies abound. Fades away. Siome years later, resurfaces with similar claims, similar bad "science", cycle starts over.

[jumping into the middle]? You are saying that the blower runs, but no air moves out any vent (heater / floor center defroster)? The shutters that select where the heat goes can't block all flow, only choose where it goes. There are 2 shutters that direct air through or around the heater core. It seems possible [not sure how likely this is] that if the linkages were messed up they could block the air. What are the chances of mice / etc. making a nest in the ductwork? I had them build one in the blower years ago. Found the *whole* system filled with nests in one of my parts cars.

It looks like an Evaporative Emissions solenoid. Controls when the fumes collected by the charcoal canister are sucked into the engine. [really simple version] http://users.adelphia.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html The link covers the EGR solenoid, but the same info applies to either. Some guys disable them, I prefer to repair them as shown in the URL. In nearly 20 years, I never had to repair one a second time.

I can't wait until [in a few years] my cars will be old enough to not need testing!

Above the screws there is a round part. The inner piece is turned by the motor shaft. It has slots that the 5 little rollers can move around in. They fly out, touching the inner surface of the ring shaped piece. The rotating center piece is not in the center of the ring, so the volume between rollers changes as they rotate artound the ring. There are ports that let the fluid in & out in the apropreate places.