DaveT

I am not sure about the dealer AC. I have had to trim the 4 studs so the fan would go in. I have also found the radiator touching the front sheet metal and cut pieces out so the radiator doesn't rub through. This could depend on the brand of radiator or some other difference in the sheet metal.

My hitch: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/hitch.html built about 18 years ago. Overkill? Yes. Cost? <$40.00.

Correct. Normal weather range here is -10 to 100. Neither for very long. It doesn't take long to cause big problems on that 100 degrees day... I have no problem in winter, no overheating in summer. Including A/C on, 3AT, towing, heavy load in the car, drive almost like I stole it.

Back when I discovered this, the mechanic I talked to said most of them have them, don't worry, no problem. I have heard that Subaru issued something (TSB?) about them being normal. I don't know about buying them, I have a bunch of spares, doubt I have one without cracks.

Double check all the hose clamps. I have found them seeping after a replacement. I have also seen leaks - from hose clamps and gaskets - that drip onto the engine block or exhaust pipe or even the radiator so there is no evidence except the missing coolant.

Very normal for EA82s. All mine have them.

I only use 2 row (turbo) radiators. Compared to a MT radiator, the turbo radiator is rated to dissipate 26,000 BTU/Hr more. MT 136,499 BTU/Hr AT 156,339 BTU/Hr Turbo 162,688 BTU/Hr XT 170,227 BTU/Hr If an XT would fit I'd use them - but I think they are too wide. I have 1 decent condition 1 row as an emergency spare.

A few things: Check all 6 coolant hoses. It is better to replace them than have one fail. overheat due to low coolant = head gasket job. Sometimes not immediatly, but sooner or later, depending how bad. Check the fins on the radiator. IF the fine little fins are not attached to the tubes, replace the radiator, same reason as above. The fins support the flat tubes. If the fins are missing, the tubes flex more than they are supposed to and stress fracture. Timing belts & idlers. Not fatal, but they break without warning, and you're parked. The factory service manuals are pricey, but by far the best.

These are not my best work, but might help for a start: It's tricky to get it to focus on the little parts. I can try again tomorrow. There is a plastic finger that needs to be lifted away from the metal contact: The un modified end works for these: The little "finger" is what has to be pushed flat to release the pin from the plastic: The modified end: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/Subaru/temp/tool7.jpg

I do this all the time. I have a couple of the stainless steel strips from ano old windshield wiper refill with the ends ground to work as a tool for releasing the terminals. I also have the wiring harnesses from several retired Subarus as a parts source. I have never looked into buying just the contacts.

If you are replacing with the same type, it is less technically complicated than swapping the engine. Biggest problem I had was getting the car high enough, since the tranny has to come out from underneath it. I used SOLID concrete blocks 8" x 16" x 4" stacked like bricks under each tire. I think it took 3 layers. Top was 2 blocks, so the tire was on a 16 x 16 platform. I just jacked each wheel 4" at a time, adding to the pyramid each time around. Once done, I found I could back the car off by adding a block or 2 to make the slope of the steps shallower. I used a couple of jacks I have to lower the transmission onto a board. Under the board were 4 pieces of steel tubing (EMT) for rollers. The biggest trick is pulling the half shafts off the tranny - there is just enough room to move the engine & transmission far enough to get one off, then move the other way to pull the other. Unbolting the engine mounts from the engine is the not fun part. Be carefull of the speedometer cable. Removing it from the transmission can be troublesome. The aluminum corrosion can lock the plastic threads in pretty good.

I had a 3AT loose the seal between the diff and the transmission. The ATF ended up in the diff. Wife calls - my car making bad noises. I get there, no gear lube. It seems the diff had a slow leak. Ran dry of gear lube. I wasn't checking it often enough. All I had was a quart of motor oil. Threw that in, as it's clearly shot anyway. The 20+ mile drive back home was interesting, with the whole keeping the differential under load to prevent horrific noises. (mentioned above, gas applied while slowing and breaking). About 2/3 of the way home, I start makeing a smoke screen. Stop & check the level, hmm, "gear lube" over full:-\ probably overflowing onto the exhaust. As I pull into my garage, the transmission starts slipping. Th pinion was moving forward into the diff carrier. Applying engine power causes the gears to "screw apart" from each other, engine breaking causes the pinion to "screw into" the carrier:eek:

I have tested exhausts with a vacuume cleaner. Unbolt the Y pipe at the heads - enough to get an inch gap. Connect the vac to the tail pipe. There shouldn't be a big difference in air flow (speed of the vac's motor) with or without the exhaust. This is easier to determine if you have a spare / known good system to compare with, but if yours is really plugged as bad as it sounds, it should be quite noticeable. I had a cat burn out, and piece of the core got stuck (sideways to the tiny holes) in the outlet of the cat housing. The engine ran ok at idle, light load, low RPM, but was flat / no power when I put the pedal down, pinging, and ratty.

The outer race of the bearing is a tight fit in the gear. They usually make popping noises most of the way out. Use a big bolt or something to get even pressure - it has to be pushed straight. Yes, if it is all discolored from heat, it might not be a good one to fix.

That idler can be rebuilt. As long as the "gear" pully isn't ruined. The bearing is a 6203 with contact seals. I always have a few "in stock" - I buy them from a local industrial bearing supply house. Less than $10.00. You need a small press or bearing splitter & gear puller.

Grind a couple flats on the plug with an angle grinder, then put the vise grips (not the common, medium sized ones, the big ones) or pipe wrench on it.

It wouldn't be a bad idea. The seals in the water pump were run without coolant at an elevated temperature. Same with the thermostat. If you are going to spend the time to fix it, why take a chance with a $50.00 possible cooked water pump? how many miles on the pump? When I replace head gaskets for this type of problem, I replace all rubber parts in the oil & coolant systems - oil pump, rear & front main, cam, cam orings, all coolant hoses, cam cover seals and valve seals. They have all been cooked at higher than normal temps., and you have to pull it all apart anyways. One engine I had this happen to runs great after the repair, but burns oil like crazy, so (I'm only guessing) I think the oil rings are toast. 2 or 3 others (over ~20 years, several cars) all good as before with less leaking. Main thing I learned - replace all coolant hoses BEFORE they fail. Check coolant level at least once per week. Check radiator fins periodically.

The reisitors are part of the "box". Actually, the box part covers the terminals, but the whole thing comes off together, you are on the right track.

In my experiences, you will need new headgaskets. Even if they aren't blown or leaking now, they will be. Obviously, check everything first, but in my 20+ years with subies, a dry overheat leads to headgaskets instantly or shortly later. Anything that interferes with the flow of coolant will cause the initial trouble. I automatically replace a thermostat that has been overheated dry. Probably a good idea to replace them every 10 years anyways. Hoses - all 6 - should be replaced every 5 or after a dry overheat also. Take a look at the radiator - are the fine little fins between the horizontal tubes attached to the tubes, or just sitting there? Are there areas where they are missing - check the corners of the electric fan shroud. If they are loose or missing, get a new rad. Stand the radiator on one end. block all of the ports (except the top most) and fill it full of water. pop the bottom main port - the water should gush out very fast. If you aren't sure about the flow, have the radiator checked at a radiator shop. I like to use turbo (2 row) radiators in all my EA82s - they have slightly higher cooling capacity. Never run without the pressure cap. The higher pressure keeps the water from boiling at the hot spots. When you release the pressure, the superheated water boils instantly, causeing the gusher. Adding cold water to the hot block won't work, it boils right out again. It needs to cool down below 212 degrees first.

Most of the time this is a bad resistor. Near the blower motor there is a white 4 pin connector. It goes to the resistor which is screwed to the blower housing toward the firewall.

I used to get sniped all the time - I was bidding under the average going price, or right at it. If I go a little higher, more often than not, the snipers only raise the final price a bit. The difference was something like 10% to go from not winning to winning. Look at the completed listings to see what the recent going price is. Related thought re: ebay I also like to know the cost of a new item at a regular store or Amazon type place. Some items your'e better off buying new - if you can get a new one for 20% more from a store, with a warranty, return if defective, etc., why mess around? If you can get it for 50% or less of the "regular" price, it's worth it to go ebay.

Most likely the coil is open. All of my oem units have failed that way, except maybe one. My solution: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html The EGR and the purge are the same unit with different electrical connectors.

Here is my hitch: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/hitch.html (designed & built about 15 years ago)

FSM says a little under 8 quarts. Additionsal details on my 3 cars - 100K mile changes. I don't drive them easy. Sooner or later the vacuume modulator will fail (not related to oil), sucking ATF into the intake. Have a couple extra quarts on hand.

I have used Amsoil ATF for 19 years. Shifts better cold. Zero problems. 100-185K miles on each of 3 4WD 3AT wagons.