DaveT

These are not my best work, but might help for a start: It's tricky to get it to focus on the little parts. I can try again tomorrow. There is a plastic finger that needs to be lifted away from the metal contact: The un modified end works for these: The little "finger" is what has to be pushed flat to release the pin from the plastic: The modified end: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/Subaru/temp/tool7.jpg

I do this all the time. I have a couple of the stainless steel strips from ano old windshield wiper refill with the ends ground to work as a tool for releasing the terminals. I also have the wiring harnesses from several retired Subarus as a parts source. I have never looked into buying just the contacts.

If you are replacing with the same type, it is less technically complicated than swapping the engine. Biggest problem I had was getting the car high enough, since the tranny has to come out from underneath it. I used SOLID concrete blocks 8" x 16" x 4" stacked like bricks under each tire. I think it took 3 layers. Top was 2 blocks, so the tire was on a 16 x 16 platform. I just jacked each wheel 4" at a time, adding to the pyramid each time around. Once done, I found I could back the car off by adding a block or 2 to make the slope of the steps shallower. I used a couple of jacks I have to lower the transmission onto a board. Under the board were 4 pieces of steel tubing (EMT) for rollers. The biggest trick is pulling the half shafts off the tranny - there is just enough room to move the engine & transmission far enough to get one off, then move the other way to pull the other. Unbolting the engine mounts from the engine is the not fun part. Be carefull of the speedometer cable. Removing it from the transmission can be troublesome. The aluminum corrosion can lock the plastic threads in pretty good.

I had a 3AT loose the seal between the diff and the transmission. The ATF ended up in the diff. Wife calls - my car making bad noises. I get there, no gear lube. It seems the diff had a slow leak. Ran dry of gear lube. I wasn't checking it often enough. All I had was a quart of motor oil. Threw that in, as it's clearly shot anyway. The 20+ mile drive back home was interesting, with the whole keeping the differential under load to prevent horrific noises. (mentioned above, gas applied while slowing and breaking). About 2/3 of the way home, I start makeing a smoke screen. Stop & check the level, hmm, "gear lube" over full:-\ probably overflowing onto the exhaust. As I pull into my garage, the transmission starts slipping. Th pinion was moving forward into the diff carrier. Applying engine power causes the gears to "screw apart" from each other, engine breaking causes the pinion to "screw into" the carrier:eek:

I have tested exhausts with a vacuume cleaner. Unbolt the Y pipe at the heads - enough to get an inch gap. Connect the vac to the tail pipe. There shouldn't be a big difference in air flow (speed of the vac's motor) with or without the exhaust. This is easier to determine if you have a spare / known good system to compare with, but if yours is really plugged as bad as it sounds, it should be quite noticeable. I had a cat burn out, and piece of the core got stuck (sideways to the tiny holes) in the outlet of the cat housing. The engine ran ok at idle, light load, low RPM, but was flat / no power when I put the pedal down, pinging, and ratty.

The outer race of the bearing is a tight fit in the gear. They usually make popping noises most of the way out. Use a big bolt or something to get even pressure - it has to be pushed straight. Yes, if it is all discolored from heat, it might not be a good one to fix.

That idler can be rebuilt. As long as the "gear" pully isn't ruined. The bearing is a 6203 with contact seals. I always have a few "in stock" - I buy them from a local industrial bearing supply house. Less than $10.00. You need a small press or bearing splitter & gear puller.

Grind a couple flats on the plug with an angle grinder, then put the vise grips (not the common, medium sized ones, the big ones) or pipe wrench on it.

It wouldn't be a bad idea. The seals in the water pump were run without coolant at an elevated temperature. Same with the thermostat. If you are going to spend the time to fix it, why take a chance with a $50.00 possible cooked water pump? how many miles on the pump? When I replace head gaskets for this type of problem, I replace all rubber parts in the oil & coolant systems - oil pump, rear & front main, cam, cam orings, all coolant hoses, cam cover seals and valve seals. They have all been cooked at higher than normal temps., and you have to pull it all apart anyways. One engine I had this happen to runs great after the repair, but burns oil like crazy, so (I'm only guessing) I think the oil rings are toast. 2 or 3 others (over ~20 years, several cars) all good as before with less leaking. Main thing I learned - replace all coolant hoses BEFORE they fail. Check coolant level at least once per week. Check radiator fins periodically.

The reisitors are part of the "box". Actually, the box part covers the terminals, but the whole thing comes off together, you are on the right track.

In my experiences, you will need new headgaskets. Even if they aren't blown or leaking now, they will be. Obviously, check everything first, but in my 20+ years with subies, a dry overheat leads to headgaskets instantly or shortly later. Anything that interferes with the flow of coolant will cause the initial trouble. I automatically replace a thermostat that has been overheated dry. Probably a good idea to replace them every 10 years anyways. Hoses - all 6 - should be replaced every 5 or after a dry overheat also. Take a look at the radiator - are the fine little fins between the horizontal tubes attached to the tubes, or just sitting there? Are there areas where they are missing - check the corners of the electric fan shroud. If they are loose or missing, get a new rad. Stand the radiator on one end. block all of the ports (except the top most) and fill it full of water. pop the bottom main port - the water should gush out very fast. If you aren't sure about the flow, have the radiator checked at a radiator shop. I like to use turbo (2 row) radiators in all my EA82s - they have slightly higher cooling capacity. Never run without the pressure cap. The higher pressure keeps the water from boiling at the hot spots. When you release the pressure, the superheated water boils instantly, causeing the gusher. Adding cold water to the hot block won't work, it boils right out again. It needs to cool down below 212 degrees first.

Most of the time this is a bad resistor. Near the blower motor there is a white 4 pin connector. It goes to the resistor which is screwed to the blower housing toward the firewall.

I used to get sniped all the time - I was bidding under the average going price, or right at it. If I go a little higher, more often than not, the snipers only raise the final price a bit. The difference was something like 10% to go from not winning to winning. Look at the completed listings to see what the recent going price is. Related thought re: ebay I also like to know the cost of a new item at a regular store or Amazon type place. Some items your'e better off buying new - if you can get a new one for 20% more from a store, with a warranty, return if defective, etc., why mess around? If you can get it for 50% or less of the "regular" price, it's worth it to go ebay.

Most likely the coil is open. All of my oem units have failed that way, except maybe one. My solution: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html The EGR and the purge are the same unit with different electrical connectors.

Here is my hitch: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/hitch.html (designed & built about 15 years ago)

FSM says a little under 8 quarts. Additionsal details on my 3 cars - 100K mile changes. I don't drive them easy. Sooner or later the vacuume modulator will fail (not related to oil), sucking ATF into the intake. Have a couple extra quarts on hand.

I have used Amsoil ATF for 19 years. Shifts better cold. Zero problems. 100-185K miles on each of 3 4WD 3AT wagons.

Probably as difficult as removing a windshield without breaking it. Not easy. You need a thin wire saw - I have picked up on the board in another thread somewhere. If I found a hatch in as good or better shape, same color, I probably would swap hatches. Glueing the "new" window in isn't too big a deal - I watched about 3 windshield installs over the years. I never did one myself due to not having a spare windshield. Broke a good one (maybe a year old) trying to save it from a doner.

12' full length roof rack. All aluminum. I can haul 3-400 Lbs up there. Full view, but small: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/House/Outside/house3.jpg I thought of the gauge in the hydraulic system after posting the previous message. I have to look at where to mount, etc. and order one up.

Well, I do have a box or 2 of old belts... A video cam & digital cam. and: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/toys/dynahoe4.jpg All I need is a way to gauge the force and decent weather..

And then some... Looks like the webbing breaking strength is about 4500 LBs. That is within the range of force I can apply... I just need a clever way to gauge the tension...

Out of curiosity, what is the breaking strength of the belts when new? Or what should it be to be "good"

I don't remember having trouble finding generic metric brake lines in typical parts stores... But I also have a bunch of lines removed from dissasembled EA82s.. I save the long ones that are run inside the car as they are usually good as new. -- So I may not have had to buy any for quite a while... Just bring an old one with you to match the thread pitch & diameter.

Here's a partial answer: I saw some 2" 3 way cats on ebay for about $60.00. Not sure if I'd use them or not, it was just a quick scan to see what's around. Performance shouldn't be affected much. Poked out ones are better than plugged / dead ones. On my EA82, I did notice a small improvement in the extreem high RPM going from my 1 good stock "reference" set of cats to a poked out set.

I have fixed a few. Drilled a small hole through the plastic and the insert - where it won't interfere with the bolt - put a piece of wire through the hole & around. Use anti seize when re assembling. Don't over tighten them.