DaveT

This afternoon I got a call from radiator barn.com. They can't get the 2 row any more. I looked up this thread, and went to radiators.com to check price / etc. It put me in chat. Went through the whole thing, 2 row, outlet angle, etc. Ok, this is trickey, we'll call you. Phone rings, radiator ordered. I'll have it tomorrow. Less than 24 Hrs., normal shipping fee, not preimium overnight or anything. Damn, that was fast!

5th picture down: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/power.html Full length aluminum roof rack. Unfortunately, I never thought to take a picture with it loaded. I have hauled: 3 boxes of vinyl siding. 6 sheets 4x12 sheetrock. 8 14' 2x10s 2' tall stack of 4x8 foam sheets (sandwiched with 1/2 ply to keep it together) steel reinforcment grids for concrete floors. 5'x10' sheets. 4x8 plywood, other long things. 24' extension ladder The load is supported by 4) 6" wide plates that go into the rain gutter, and the 2 vertical posts in the front. Multiple roof rack nuts anchor to the existing rails for + or - acceleration loads. When loaded, I put an X with 2 straps down to the tow hooks on the front. I don't put more than 300-400 Lbs up there, it makes the car handle funny. Modified about 5 years ago to make the front 1/3rd removable, so I only put the front part on when needed.

There is a plastic trim / cover under the steering wheel that goes about to where your toes are when working the pedals. Remove it. (I toss them) There is a roughly 7" roughly square metal box attached to the steering column. Along the edge facing the driver's seat there will be a hole. Look through the hole to see the LED that blinks the trouble code. Count the long blinks as 10s, short blinks as 1s. Ex: 3 long, 4 short = 34. When it repeats, it has read out all the different codes. Yes, heat (even just normal operating temperature) helps removing stuck bolts very much. A couple driving cycles w/ penatrant added before & after each run should work it into the threads well.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that! I had one years ago, that came with one of the Subies I bought - the only thing it was good for was that it helped me figure out what years were interchangable.

I've always done it by pulling the engine. Much less crawling around on the floor / ground that way. Easier to get at the flywheel, etc. I never tried it the other way, someone else probably has, if it's possible.

The post you linked looks correct. You must rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees before installing the second belt. That is the key bit that those who are new to subarus often miss. Also, use the center line of the 3 lines on the flywheel, not the timing marks with degrees marked on them. If one timing mark is up the other must be down. Anything else, and the timing is wrong. And that would make it run crummy.

(leaivng out all the little details, to keep it short - You have to check that the belts were timed correctly. Use the 3 marks on the flywheel, line up the marks on the cam near the battery. Install that belt. Use a wrench to turn the crankshaft 360 degrees - EXACTLY 1 revolution. Then line up the marks on the other cam, install that belt. The detailed procedure should be on the site somewhere. (USRM?)

Wow. I never thought of that... I do keep boots, spare axles, Etc. I like to have one ready to swap out.

(no disrespect intended) - Where are you getting timing belts with steel in them? I've never seen one, OEM or aftermarket. The cords look like some kind of fibre / fibreglass "string"..

Maybe I missunderstood something in the previous postes. If the oil level goes down, it's either leaking out or burning. It takes a lot of oil to be burning to get visible smoke.

Oil over full + thinned by seafoam + burns oil already = Not surpirised it's smoking / burning even more oil.

How about a lenght of 4x4? Wear gloves, use it battering ram style, not baseball bat style. Best from under the end of the car, so you are pushing the wheel out / off. Turn wheel 1/3 turn each hit or 2. If it's that stuck, it might be usefull to sand the rust off the center part of the brake drum that sticks throught the rim, just so it will move easier when you finally get it to move.

I got a 2 row from radiatorbarn.com CSF brand. (I've had good luck with them) My cars are not turbo. I don't know if they have turbo radiators, or what the difference is.

It should be on the back of the speedometer, centered on the pivot of the needle.

There are no tricks with the pushbuttons. Something must be interefering - mounting screw? Stress on the assembly? The latching action is not electric or vacuume powered.

I don't know specifically for EA81. In general, you want the O2 sensor. So the ECU can adjust the mixture properly. Cat only effects emissions. White smoke could be burning coolant.

I should have included in my other post. I only have 3AT 4WD wagons. Max towing about 1000Lbs. Handles ok, yeah, it's slow, and you have to plan ahead for stopping, downshift (2), , no speeding, etc. Under 500, no big deal. I don't tow every day.

My trailer hitch: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/hitch.html Built almost 20 years ago.

I've read that Loyales have the valve already.

I go by the sensor. The cylindrical part with the wax pellet, surrounded by the spring. That part goes towords the engine / away from the radiator, opposite the direction of hot coolant. In other words, the sensor part has to be "facing" the flow of hot coolant where it exits the engine. On EA82s, the hot coolant exits via the intake manifold. The cooling system has a path that lets some hot coolant from the block pass by the sensor, even when the thermostat is closed. (the 1/4" hose on EA82s) If the thermostat was installed backwards, the sensor would open way too late. Probably dead engine too late.

I have used BPR7ES for years. They are a cooler version of the BPR6ES. Every EA82 I've had has had mild, occasional pre-ignition. The cooler plugs seem to help a bit.

Don't use bolts, use studs. The stud will get all the threads in the hole, a bolt can't - unless you custom cut it to legth, or get very lucky. I had a Y pipe that was a bit distorted - the flanges were not in the same plane. It would never stay sealed, one gasket would eventually fail. Put a Y pipe with good geometry on, with NAPA gaskets, no problems. The "extra" holes are there because the head can be used on either side of the engine. I have never seen any pipe OEM or aftermarket that used the "other" holes. You could customize one, but helicoils would be easier.

2WD vs 4WD are different.

Check that the radiator is all the way forward at the top. When installinmg CSF 2 row radiators, I have had to cut away a few places on the front sheet metal so the radiator tanks wouldn't hit. If you take the top bolts out, look in the hole - the flange of the radiator should be touching the back of the bumper. The fan *just* fits, sometimes I had to cut the 4 fan studs a bit shorter, but no other problems. The fan belts will just fit between the radiator and the fan when putting them into place. I have had to do this to all 4 of the 3AT 4WD wagons I have owned.

The SPFI engine, the wiring, and the ECU all need to swap. The next I defer to the ones who have done this for the final say- Some of the guages are different, so maybe the dash unit or some mods there. Some different exhaust pipes are involved I think the engine / transmission is a bolt on.