DaveT

(no disrespect intended) - Where are you getting timing belts with steel in them? I've never seen one, OEM or aftermarket. The cords look like some kind of fibre / fibreglass "string"..

Maybe I missunderstood something in the previous postes. If the oil level goes down, it's either leaking out or burning. It takes a lot of oil to be burning to get visible smoke.

Oil over full + thinned by seafoam + burns oil already = Not surpirised it's smoking / burning even more oil.

How about a lenght of 4x4? Wear gloves, use it battering ram style, not baseball bat style. Best from under the end of the car, so you are pushing the wheel out / off. Turn wheel 1/3 turn each hit or 2. If it's that stuck, it might be usefull to sand the rust off the center part of the brake drum that sticks throught the rim, just so it will move easier when you finally get it to move.

I got a 2 row from radiatorbarn.com CSF brand. (I've had good luck with them) My cars are not turbo. I don't know if they have turbo radiators, or what the difference is.

It should be on the back of the speedometer, centered on the pivot of the needle.

There are no tricks with the pushbuttons. Something must be interefering - mounting screw? Stress on the assembly? The latching action is not electric or vacuume powered.

I don't know specifically for EA81. In general, you want the O2 sensor. So the ECU can adjust the mixture properly. Cat only effects emissions. White smoke could be burning coolant.

I should have included in my other post. I only have 3AT 4WD wagons. Max towing about 1000Lbs. Handles ok, yeah, it's slow, and you have to plan ahead for stopping, downshift (2), , no speeding, etc. Under 500, no big deal. I don't tow every day.

My trailer hitch: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/hitch.html Built almost 20 years ago.

I've read that Loyales have the valve already.

I go by the sensor. The cylindrical part with the wax pellet, surrounded by the spring. That part goes towords the engine / away from the radiator, opposite the direction of hot coolant. In other words, the sensor part has to be "facing" the flow of hot coolant where it exits the engine. On EA82s, the hot coolant exits via the intake manifold. The cooling system has a path that lets some hot coolant from the block pass by the sensor, even when the thermostat is closed. (the 1/4" hose on EA82s) If the thermostat was installed backwards, the sensor would open way too late. Probably dead engine too late.

I have used BPR7ES for years. They are a cooler version of the BPR6ES. Every EA82 I've had has had mild, occasional pre-ignition. The cooler plugs seem to help a bit.

Don't use bolts, use studs. The stud will get all the threads in the hole, a bolt can't - unless you custom cut it to legth, or get very lucky. I had a Y pipe that was a bit distorted - the flanges were not in the same plane. It would never stay sealed, one gasket would eventually fail. Put a Y pipe with good geometry on, with NAPA gaskets, no problems. The "extra" holes are there because the head can be used on either side of the engine. I have never seen any pipe OEM or aftermarket that used the "other" holes. You could customize one, but helicoils would be easier.

2WD vs 4WD are different.

Check that the radiator is all the way forward at the top. When installinmg CSF 2 row radiators, I have had to cut away a few places on the front sheet metal so the radiator tanks wouldn't hit. If you take the top bolts out, look in the hole - the flange of the radiator should be touching the back of the bumper. The fan *just* fits, sometimes I had to cut the 4 fan studs a bit shorter, but no other problems. The fan belts will just fit between the radiator and the fan when putting them into place. I have had to do this to all 4 of the 3AT 4WD wagons I have owned.

The SPFI engine, the wiring, and the ECU all need to swap. The next I defer to the ones who have done this for the final say- Some of the guages are different, so maybe the dash unit or some mods there. Some different exhaust pipes are involved I think the engine / transmission is a bolt on.

I'm not trying to be difficult. Without the troubleshooting data, I can only guess. Maybe some crud got loose and is bothering soomething. Maybe a coincidence. I am not familiar with seafoam 1st hand. I have never tried the alcohol trick. The only way I know to find the problem is by slogging through the troubleshooting. At this point, everything is suspect. I tried to list from most common / easy to check to least common / hard or expensive to check. In this, like electronics, many times you only find the answer by checking many things, ruling out the ones that aren't bad, then finding the one that's causing the problem. You don't know until you find it. There is more than one way to have the same symptom. It's not A => X, its more like A or B or C or D (...) => X. Another easy / cheap one: Check / clean the MAF also. The thing in your picture could be the anti-afterburning valve. I was hoping for someone with a carbed car to recognize it.

HC come from unburned fuel. Assuming the engine doesn't burn lots of oil- Good air cleaner- Running at normal temperature 190 degrees - must check with a thermometer. I've had bad wires that look ok, especially brands other than NGK. Plugs should be checked for fouling. The thermosensor that the emmissions control system uses to tell the engine temp. - if it fails the right way, the engine will be running rich. - I'm not 100% about this, I only have SPFI cars. I have not had this problem, only heard it can happen. Do the exhaust temp checks as mentioned in a previous post to check the cats. It's been a while, but I bought a thermocouple thermometer from Sears / craftsman for about $25.00. It works for both tests. If the HCs are high long enough, the catalytic converters will fail. O2 sensor should only effect the CO.

Based on these ^ (we don't have the others here) CO is pretty normal. HC (Hydro Carbons)comes from unburned fuel. My 92 had 51 HC @2502 RPM and 70 HC @ 790 RPM. Same limits you have. How are the plugs & wires & operating temp & burning oil? Don't panic, only to avoid burning out the catalytics... The O2 sensor can also fail in a way that the ECU doesn't notice, causing catalytic failure.

I am in the process of adding 4WD to a 2WD 3AT. It has been done. There should be holes for the differential hanger. I had to drill access holes through the floor to put nuts on the mouting bolts. You need the tubular suspension mount from the 4WD fot the front diff mount. (I made a braket and added it to the 2WD tube since it was in much better condition) I haven't gotten to the center bearing yet. Also, I have to swap the transmission for the 4WD unit. You have to add a wire or 2 for the 4WD switch / indicator.

Do NOT just press it (the caliper piston). The parking brake adjuster mechanisim will not allow it, and or be ruined. [edited for clarity]

Hmm, Well, they only let me order 1, so either they are out, or have silly quantity rules. I'll probaly have it next week.

I just figured, I might as well get the new rotors - no doubt the scrounged ones will be half used or worse. Thanks again, Dave

Are these the correct disks for converting a 4WD EA82 wagon to disk brakes? http://store.auctionfrontier.com/Items/9070_SINGLE%20RBL?sck=2588526 Thank you, Dave