DaveT

On a slightly different angle... For on street only. (or at least no "real" 4 wheelin) With AWD you have to have all 4 tires the same. And rotate them more often to avoid strain on the driveline on dry pavement. With switchable 4WD you can cheat and use slightly less than identical pairs, since you have the choice to switch on the 4WD if the road is slippery. I've saved lots of $ over the years, using up the odd pairs of tires that came on the various used subies I have owned.

I had good luck here: http://www.performanceradiator.com/ They have all metal 2 row radiators. I wouldn't run with the fine fins missing. The flat tubes have no support and eventually split from stress fractures. Been there, done that.

Here's another idea. Get a Waxoyl kit: http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/WAXOYL/AddedFrom/CatBrowse-%20TOOLS/InvDetail.cfm (Google for more dealers) I have used this stuff for almost 20 years. It doesn't get hard and scrape off like the "converter" stuff. (I've had lousy luck with that stuff - it doesn't last, and it's fragile) You can't paint over Waxoyl. BUT If you have some surface rust, it will STOP it for years. With most rust, it is also coming from the inside, so use it on both sides. You don't have to get into fancy prep, just brush off the loose crud. Get it into the seams where rust starts. If you check & keep it coated, you can wait until you have money / time / etc. and it won't be worse. I've put Waxoyl on little dings that I noticed a rust bubble starting from, (chip off the bubbled paint) and it was many years (like 5) before they began to grow again. Places that get "sandblasted" by road dirt will need more frequent recoats.

Ok, not a stock EA82. Are you sure it isn't a bad connection outside of the alternator? Due to low hours over 3 years, it may be dirty slip rings. Can you get it tested somewhere? Any details as to the failure mode? You want to try to narrow down what part is bad.

I've replaced bearings, brushes, regulators, rectifier assemblies. I bought 1 used alternator in 20 years of running EA82s. Dissasembled 3 whole cars. Never bought any other alternator parts, just used what I need from the above list. I did buy the new bearings. One brush wears much faster than the other, and has been the most common fault I have experienced. I take the less worn brush from a doner alt., and put the longer one where the shorter one was. Of course, that doner alt. became the source for the other misc. items over time. Alternator & starter rebuild shops might have brushes that fit. 2 ways to get the big nut off the pully. Impact wrench - or remove the long thin screws, split the case. Clamp the rotor in a vise. Be a little careful about bending the poles, clamp with wood. You need abearing / gear puller and bearing splitter to get the bearings off. When assembling / pressing bearings back on, never put force on the opposite race. (inner vs outer) There is a small hole in the back cover near the brushes. You put a piece of stiff wire in from the outside, press each brush in, slide the wire past. This allows the cover to go back on without catching the brushes on the bearing or slip rings. Pull the wire out after the case screws are back in. If the slip rings need smoothing, clamp one of the front case ears in a vise, spin the rotor (use a drill w/a socket) and use wet/dry sand paper or fine files to clean up the slip rings.

I found the main power wire that goes to the master switch in the driver's door was open / intermittant in my 90 Loyale. Temperature: One of mine runs at about 1/4-1/3, the others about 1/3-1/2. I ran an accurate thermometer on one head for a time years ago, and was reading around 190 degrees. Heater blower, just have to trace the circuit, check voltages, etc. The factory service manuals have detailed schematics and connector location drawings. VERY helpful. Some of that stuff my be online here.

No. Pull the wires off the alternator, see if it goes out. A $20.00 digital meter will tell you more and be more accurate. I can tell somewhat what's up by reading my in dash meter, but I have watched it for years, and have the reference of an accurate meter. Normal battery voltage off, no key, doors closed. 12.6 with a fully charged good battery sitting overnight. Maybe shorter, never timed it to see how much sooner would still be accurate. Engine running, no other loads on, battery should be around 13.8V. Sometimes when idleing on the lower end it might be less. Rev it to 1000 or so. Typically, the meter reads above the 12V mark when running. May drop to it at idle with lights & blower on. Weaker (old or discharged) battery, drops faster. Old => 5 years. There are a lot of drops in hte harness, so loads etc. will throw off the readings.

You had the heads off. You had the timing belts off. Are you 100% sure you got them back on right? There are a few tricks that many new to subaru people miss... The 3 tick marks OPPOSITE the timing marks on the flywheel. One belt on, rotate engine 1 turn, second belt on.

I have thought of this. I have the parts to do it. I have the cutter bits needed to adjust the groove slightly. I haven't had the time to do it yet... It is coming back near the top of the list, however. O-ring stock is surprisingly cheap. MSCdirect.com is where I got mine.

I try to avoid made in china whenever I can. Been learning to ask before ordering lately.. I am always looking for discounted Name Brand parts & equipment. Lately I have been coming across more "discount" suppliers that really are only selling cheap MIC crap. It's cheaper because of no OSHA regulations, no environmental regulations, cheap labor, etc. Not discounted / surplus / low overhead good stuff.

Well, I went to the radiators.com warehouse today. The guy there stars looking up other versions. Only has 1 row radiators with the up angle outlet, and plastic tanks. That's not what I wanted to order. Gives me a load of BS about we don't do refunds, only exchange for the correct part, accusing me of ordering the wrong part. :mad: "see, it's right here on the invoice". I tell him how the --- do I know that when I am ordering on the internet, and then they call me to be sure about the fit - and they get it wrong??? :mad: 45 minute drive to warehouse. Took 1/2 hour more to get the refund. Supposedly a couple business days to get the credit on my card.

Side note: I have mostly used NAPA hoses on my fleet. The inlet & outlet hoses are the same part with the angled outlet radiator. Less different parts = good. Maybe I'll be lucky and they'll have an all metal 2 row.

The heat makes the engine & manifold expand. The engine & manifold are likely at slightly different temperatures. Changes the stress & pressure on the gaskets. The temperature has to get up high enough to raise the pressure of the cooling system before it leaks enough to notice. Old crummy gaskets might not flex enough to keep sealed.

I just looked at usaradiator. Wish I went there first. They have pictures, and you can pick the part numbers, see all the details before ordering. They have all metal radiators, including the 2 row I want. Much better if you are trying to customize. "Dwight" at radiators.com is a bot of some sort, not a live person. I tried to get him off script, to inquire about returning the wrong one. "He" ignored my entries, went on with make / model etc. "Oh this one's tricky, we'll call." I thought he could type awfully fast.... Their return policies suck:mad: I have to go to the warehouse. I can swap for a different one, or pay $35.00 restocking fee. Not sure which way I'll go, but all the info is here.

OK, I'll look into that. I've owned 3 GL's and 2 Loyales. All wagons. All w/AC. All 3ATs. All have the radiator with the angled outlet. I never saw a straight back one before. That hose must be a very "S" shaped thing, looking at how things "line up".

I'm not sure at this point. I got the radiator this morning. With the wrong outlet pipe. I need the angled upward one, not the straight back one. And I did specifically ask about that when on the phone. I don't know if there is a hose that would work - the normal ones I have always used won't for sure. Here is what I got: Radiators.com Part number 1269PL. 2 Row core (good) Heat exchanger for AT (I need) Plastic end tanks (yuck) Made in china (yuck) Outlet pipe straight back (can't use) Now I have to go 31 miles to their warehouse - best bet to check for all the variables. The top 2 I need, the next 2 I'll live with if I have to, the bottom one won't work. It would be good to find out if there is an all metal 2 row w/angled output available elsewhere before friday, when I can make the trip.

TIG is sweet. I have a miller stick welder. I borrowed a cheap MIG once. (not going to do that (cheap MIG) again) I would try a good one. A freind has a Miller MIG, 2 have TIG and big industrial all mode welders - 1000+Lbs P&H machines. (Need to weld 400Amps all day?) I had to rebuild the muffler on my tractor - http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/muffler.html - ended up TIGing 304 stainless. It was very nice. Need more heat? ramp up the power with the foot pedal. Too hot, ease off. Only add filler as needed. 304 TIGs really nice. No slag. No sparks flying all over the place. You could TIG 304 on the dining room table and get away with it if you got everything put away in time.

This afternoon I got a call from radiator barn.com. They can't get the 2 row any more. I looked up this thread, and went to radiators.com to check price / etc. It put me in chat. Went through the whole thing, 2 row, outlet angle, etc. Ok, this is trickey, we'll call you. Phone rings, radiator ordered. I'll have it tomorrow. Less than 24 Hrs., normal shipping fee, not preimium overnight or anything. Damn, that was fast!

5th picture down: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/power.html Full length aluminum roof rack. Unfortunately, I never thought to take a picture with it loaded. I have hauled: 3 boxes of vinyl siding. 6 sheets 4x12 sheetrock. 8 14' 2x10s 2' tall stack of 4x8 foam sheets (sandwiched with 1/2 ply to keep it together) steel reinforcment grids for concrete floors. 5'x10' sheets. 4x8 plywood, other long things. 24' extension ladder The load is supported by 4) 6" wide plates that go into the rain gutter, and the 2 vertical posts in the front. Multiple roof rack nuts anchor to the existing rails for + or - acceleration loads. When loaded, I put an X with 2 straps down to the tow hooks on the front. I don't put more than 300-400 Lbs up there, it makes the car handle funny. Modified about 5 years ago to make the front 1/3rd removable, so I only put the front part on when needed.

There is a plastic trim / cover under the steering wheel that goes about to where your toes are when working the pedals. Remove it. (I toss them) There is a roughly 7" roughly square metal box attached to the steering column. Along the edge facing the driver's seat there will be a hole. Look through the hole to see the LED that blinks the trouble code. Count the long blinks as 10s, short blinks as 1s. Ex: 3 long, 4 short = 34. When it repeats, it has read out all the different codes. Yes, heat (even just normal operating temperature) helps removing stuck bolts very much. A couple driving cycles w/ penatrant added before & after each run should work it into the threads well.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that! I had one years ago, that came with one of the Subies I bought - the only thing it was good for was that it helped me figure out what years were interchangable.

I've always done it by pulling the engine. Much less crawling around on the floor / ground that way. Easier to get at the flywheel, etc. I never tried it the other way, someone else probably has, if it's possible.

The post you linked looks correct. You must rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees before installing the second belt. That is the key bit that those who are new to subarus often miss. Also, use the center line of the 3 lines on the flywheel, not the timing marks with degrees marked on them. If one timing mark is up the other must be down. Anything else, and the timing is wrong. And that would make it run crummy.

(leaivng out all the little details, to keep it short - You have to check that the belts were timed correctly. Use the 3 marks on the flywheel, line up the marks on the cam near the battery. Install that belt. Use a wrench to turn the crankshaft 360 degrees - EXACTLY 1 revolution. Then line up the marks on the other cam, install that belt. The detailed procedure should be on the site somewhere. (USRM?)

Wow. I never thought of that... I do keep boots, spare axles, Etc. I like to have one ready to swap out.