DaveT

I have only EA82, non T. They typically don't shake at all. The only time I've seen them shake is when a cylinder is missing. Bad plug / wire / etc. A couple times I drove around with no hood, the engine just sits there. Maybe leans al little with hard acceleration. Or maybe I should say with full throttle...

Since the pressure is regulated, it shouldn't be a variable. Since the manifold vacuum isn't what draws the fuel in, it should make a big difference. Theoretically, if you measuring the width of the pulse going to the injector should tell exactly how much fuel went in. You just need a computer - analog or digital - to convert to a usable reading. Longer the pulse = more fuel. Pretty simple analog circuit to average out the pulses for a flow rate meter. For MPG meter, it would be better to go digital = computer.

Safe is relative. Some people ride motorcycles. Far less safe than an 80's sube. There were a bunch of small cars back then that were worse. If you really want safe, look at how the NASCAR cars are built (or the other top racecars) . Very strong cage around the driver, seat, belts, helmet, etc. NO airbags. The rest of the car is made to crush on impact, absorbing the energy.

A few thoughts: The 2 things may not be related, just coincidence. Maybe a bad bearing alternator, water pump, idler? A 3' long 1/2 ID tube can help localize noises around the engine.

Just a warning to those in emmissions states - A bad O2 sensor can cause the catalytic converters to fail. Been there, done that.

The pump is back near the gas tank, right? The fuller the tank the better, but it should just go.

On my EA82s, I have noticed that the voltage will drop when the car goes to idle with lights and other loads on when the battery is near end of life.

A decent hardware store. It is a paint / finish solvent.

They were used on corollas, at the very least. I just walked around the junkyard and grabbed any that looked close to those in the pictures. It isn't super critical.

Here is my solution for the EGR solenoid: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html I never had an 11 before. They are probably not related. The 34 is most likely the EGR solenoid open circuited, or the wiring to it open circuited. I usually try to check the wiring and sensor before just replacing them. The EGR solenoid should be under 100 ohms.

They are meant to be unplugged. One set is used to initiate the dealer level diagnostics, the other clear the memory of codes. I'd have to look up the exact sequence for each. Leave them unplugged for normal use. Turn key on. Read the blinks of the LED. The codes are sort of like morse code. There will be a number of short blinks and long blinks. Each set of blinks is counted to come up with the digit. Multiple codes have a slightly longer pause between codes. The sequence repeats in a loop. I'm pretty sure there is a detailed procedure on this site.

The clicking is normal. You put the ECU into one of the diagnostics modes with those connectors. The ECU LED is under the steering column. Easier to see if you remove the plastic panel.

My 92 recently started running rough. Swapped new wires on, was good for a few trips, but the roughness came back. Decided to do the rest, cap & rotor, plugs. Well, I discovered that it had a set of Bosch platinums in it. They must have been in for quite a while. The engine was originally in our 86 that was totaled. Eventually it was moved to the brown 88, when it's engine overheated badly. That was a good number of years ago. Once the brown car died from rust, I had the good engine sitting in the garage, and a VERY leaky engine in the 92, so it got swapped into the 92. The Bosch plugs never ran good in my 90, pinged like crazy. I had to take them out. But they hadn't caused any trouble in the above engine. Weird. I have been using NGK plugs & wires only for quite a while. How it was running with these busted up ones is a surprise. 2 looked like the almost normal one. The electrode on the right one is burned down into the shadow, just a piece of ceramic left near the tip.

This won't save your car. If you get a good short circuit, you can have fire instantly all along the harness from the link box to the point of failure. Been there done that. Even if you don't set the car on fire, the harness will be trashed before you can get to the battery cable.

Small DC motor & control of some sort to turn the pump. I've seen the same done for A/C. The engine weighs about 300Lbs? About 4 batteries. The electric motor will be heavy, since it is mostly steel / iron & copper, not much light stuff, like air, water & aluminum... The conversions I've looked over had batteries distributed all around because you don't want the weight all at one end or the other. Maybe with planning to haul stuff frequently, you could load up the front a bit more than typical.

I took a quick look at it - it's too cold in the garage right now- but I have a GL = Loyale with the interior of the back removed for installing 4WD parts. To keep cargo space, cut holes through the bed, between the frame structures. Batteries could be sunk down at least where the gas tank was. You need to make boxes to contain them, keep road dirt / salt / water out. Have to dodge the rear driveline. Outside the frame, at the extreme back you could get 1) 220 AH "golf cart" battery on either side. Some would fit in the ceter pocket. Not the best placement weight distribution wise. Ideally, you want as much as possible near the center of the car, so those would be for the last few batteries to get to 120V or more.

I was testing a pair of DC motors one day. For no particular reason, I wired them in series. (Obviously, the input voltage for full output is now doubled) They acted very much like a differential. Put a little more load on one, the other speeds up. Lock one, the other goes twice as fast. Based on tourque curves, you can use electric motors with fixed gearing, but the takeoff acceleration is slow, giving electrics the bad rap. It also takes *huge* amounts of power to make the huge low speed tourque. The weight of the transmission is fairly trivial compared to weight of the batteries. Something like 20 x 60lbs - 1200Lbs.

Here's my thought on cost of cars: Buy new - You take a huge hit in value in 2 years. Buy 2 year old - Not bad, if you keep it for 10 years or more. Buy a $600 no rust EA82 spend a few G's on it. Still cheaper than 2nd choice. Even with spending some $ on repairing things the previous owner let go. Heck, you could replace the entire driveline and still be ahead. Resale value doesn't matter if you drive it into the ground. I have never sold a Subaru. And if you did screw something up while modifing, it's not like you killed a $15,000 car. read this: http://www.wired.com/wired/archive/7.03/drag.html Look here: http://www.nedra.com/

To get at the rod bearings remove the heads. Remove the pistons. You cant get at the nuts from the oil pan.

After checking the flow - you would benefit from adding a switch & solenoid to disable the fresh air intake - it is open except when OFF or A/C Max is selected.

Cool. I have thought about this also. From reading about electric conversions in general, you want 120V and up for good performance. Don't put panels on the car. There isn't enough area to be significant. If you go with 120V, common easy to get batteries: 20) 220AH "golf cart" batteries = 120V @ 200A = 24,000Watt Hours of stored power. (24KWH) Common solar panel about 3x4' = 120Watts. Say you put 2 on the roof. That's 240Watts. For as long as there is direct, straight on sun. So maybe 6 hours. 6x240=1440WH or a little over 1/16th of capacity. And they are big bucks and fragile. Figure on a new set of batteries every 5 years. The batteries need to be secured very well. You don't want the flying around in a crash. You need a circuit interupter (fuse) at each pack. 120V DC is much more dangerous than 120VAC. The arc doesn't go out 120 times per second like AC, so it is much harder to interrupt the current. Those batteries will oblige a 1000Amp discharge current for many seconds. 120KW!! The electric conversion info also talked about upgrading the suspension and brakes to handle the extra weight. So the Honda springs go in:) And at least the rear disc brakes. It would be a fun project.

One winter, I didn't bother plowing the driveway, just run over the snow a bunch of times to pack it down. Well, we got 3-4, good storms, a week apart, no melt between, and built up a good base. The next storm was deep enough to hang up the bottom of the car and the wheels started to slip. Car body now sitting on the hardpack with no weight on the tires. 90 3AT 4WD wagon. Pulled a few feet with friend's small pickup to get free. The only other time was fooling around in a parking lot, got into a plow ridge. The snow was strong enough to support the car with no weight on the tires. A little digging with a scraper and a push from a guy that happened by was all it took to get unstuck. 76 4WD 4 speed wagon. I have only used various all season tires.

Normal operation, steady blink. Trouble code looks like morse code, sort of.

So you want to fix it once. I *might* be able to get at one of my spare heater systems in a few days... Haven't studied the internals, just never had a reason. The liner is probably insulation to prevent the outside of the box from getting wet with condensation. Maybe cork gasket sheet. http://www.mscdirect.com Weather strip sounds fine for the joints and gaps around the cores. The aluminum tape for ductwork should be good for cold and hot. Look at all the types of weather strip at HD or GOOD hardware store. Look for Frost King X-treme rubber weatherseal. http://www.frostking.com/windoorweather.php EDPM seems to last a LONG time. I have some outside, exposed to sun part of the day for about 10 years. It only comes in the smaller sizes. For the doors, I would worry about the adhesive un sticking. Mostly hot summer days when parked. RTV might help. Be sure that the surfaces are *clean*. Use something to prevent sticking to the plastic?

Not enough to worry about. I have always tried to catch the freon, because it is so expensive. So far, no system had a decent charge. Weatherstripping would probably work. The A/C guy might have some better stuff. How long do you want / need it to last? For freon 12, Buna-N. Not sure about the other stuff, as I don't use it. Each fitting has an o-ring. The high pressure side uses smaller ones than the low pressure side. A while back, I bought one of the assortments like they have in the store, so I can just match them up. http://www.mscdirect.com. $20- 30.00 Be careful when loostening the lines. Use penatrating oil, take time. You don't want to break them.