DaveT

Probably as difficult as removing a windshield without breaking it. Not easy. You need a thin wire saw - I have picked up on the board in another thread somewhere. If I found a hatch in as good or better shape, same color, I probably would swap hatches. Glueing the "new" window in isn't too big a deal - I watched about 3 windshield installs over the years. I never did one myself due to not having a spare windshield. Broke a good one (maybe a year old) trying to save it from a doner.

12' full length roof rack. All aluminum. I can haul 3-400 Lbs up there. Full view, but small: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/House/Outside/house3.jpg I thought of the gauge in the hydraulic system after posting the previous message. I have to look at where to mount, etc. and order one up.

Well, I do have a box or 2 of old belts... A video cam & digital cam. and: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/toys/dynahoe4.jpg All I need is a way to gauge the force and decent weather..

And then some... Looks like the webbing breaking strength is about 4500 LBs. That is within the range of force I can apply... I just need a clever way to gauge the tension...

Out of curiosity, what is the breaking strength of the belts when new? Or what should it be to be "good"

I don't remember having trouble finding generic metric brake lines in typical parts stores... But I also have a bunch of lines removed from dissasembled EA82s.. I save the long ones that are run inside the car as they are usually good as new. -- So I may not have had to buy any for quite a while... Just bring an old one with you to match the thread pitch & diameter.

Here's a partial answer: I saw some 2" 3 way cats on ebay for about $60.00. Not sure if I'd use them or not, it was just a quick scan to see what's around. Performance shouldn't be affected much. Poked out ones are better than plugged / dead ones. On my EA82, I did notice a small improvement in the extreem high RPM going from my 1 good stock "reference" set of cats to a poked out set.

I have fixed a few. Drilled a small hole through the plastic and the insert - where it won't interfere with the bolt - put a piece of wire through the hole & around. Use anti seize when re assembling. Don't over tighten them.

I have only EA82, non T. They typically don't shake at all. The only time I've seen them shake is when a cylinder is missing. Bad plug / wire / etc. A couple times I drove around with no hood, the engine just sits there. Maybe leans al little with hard acceleration. Or maybe I should say with full throttle...

Since the pressure is regulated, it shouldn't be a variable. Since the manifold vacuum isn't what draws the fuel in, it should make a big difference. Theoretically, if you measuring the width of the pulse going to the injector should tell exactly how much fuel went in. You just need a computer - analog or digital - to convert to a usable reading. Longer the pulse = more fuel. Pretty simple analog circuit to average out the pulses for a flow rate meter. For MPG meter, it would be better to go digital = computer.

Safe is relative. Some people ride motorcycles. Far less safe than an 80's sube. There were a bunch of small cars back then that were worse. If you really want safe, look at how the NASCAR cars are built (or the other top racecars) . Very strong cage around the driver, seat, belts, helmet, etc. NO airbags. The rest of the car is made to crush on impact, absorbing the energy.

A few thoughts: The 2 things may not be related, just coincidence. Maybe a bad bearing alternator, water pump, idler? A 3' long 1/2 ID tube can help localize noises around the engine.

Just a warning to those in emmissions states - A bad O2 sensor can cause the catalytic converters to fail. Been there, done that.

The pump is back near the gas tank, right? The fuller the tank the better, but it should just go.

On my EA82s, I have noticed that the voltage will drop when the car goes to idle with lights and other loads on when the battery is near end of life.

A decent hardware store. It is a paint / finish solvent.

They were used on corollas, at the very least. I just walked around the junkyard and grabbed any that looked close to those in the pictures. It isn't super critical.

Here is my solution for the EGR solenoid: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html I never had an 11 before. They are probably not related. The 34 is most likely the EGR solenoid open circuited, or the wiring to it open circuited. I usually try to check the wiring and sensor before just replacing them. The EGR solenoid should be under 100 ohms.

They are meant to be unplugged. One set is used to initiate the dealer level diagnostics, the other clear the memory of codes. I'd have to look up the exact sequence for each. Leave them unplugged for normal use. Turn key on. Read the blinks of the LED. The codes are sort of like morse code. There will be a number of short blinks and long blinks. Each set of blinks is counted to come up with the digit. Multiple codes have a slightly longer pause between codes. The sequence repeats in a loop. I'm pretty sure there is a detailed procedure on this site.

The clicking is normal. You put the ECU into one of the diagnostics modes with those connectors. The ECU LED is under the steering column. Easier to see if you remove the plastic panel.

My 92 recently started running rough. Swapped new wires on, was good for a few trips, but the roughness came back. Decided to do the rest, cap & rotor, plugs. Well, I discovered that it had a set of Bosch platinums in it. They must have been in for quite a while. The engine was originally in our 86 that was totaled. Eventually it was moved to the brown 88, when it's engine overheated badly. That was a good number of years ago. Once the brown car died from rust, I had the good engine sitting in the garage, and a VERY leaky engine in the 92, so it got swapped into the 92. The Bosch plugs never ran good in my 90, pinged like crazy. I had to take them out. But they hadn't caused any trouble in the above engine. Weird. I have been using NGK plugs & wires only for quite a while. How it was running with these busted up ones is a surprise. 2 looked like the almost normal one. The electrode on the right one is burned down into the shadow, just a piece of ceramic left near the tip.

This won't save your car. If you get a good short circuit, you can have fire instantly all along the harness from the link box to the point of failure. Been there done that. Even if you don't set the car on fire, the harness will be trashed before you can get to the battery cable.

Small DC motor & control of some sort to turn the pump. I've seen the same done for A/C. The engine weighs about 300Lbs? About 4 batteries. The electric motor will be heavy, since it is mostly steel / iron & copper, not much light stuff, like air, water & aluminum... The conversions I've looked over had batteries distributed all around because you don't want the weight all at one end or the other. Maybe with planning to haul stuff frequently, you could load up the front a bit more than typical.

I took a quick look at it - it's too cold in the garage right now- but I have a GL = Loyale with the interior of the back removed for installing 4WD parts. To keep cargo space, cut holes through the bed, between the frame structures. Batteries could be sunk down at least where the gas tank was. You need to make boxes to contain them, keep road dirt / salt / water out. Have to dodge the rear driveline. Outside the frame, at the extreme back you could get 1) 220 AH "golf cart" battery on either side. Some would fit in the ceter pocket. Not the best placement weight distribution wise. Ideally, you want as much as possible near the center of the car, so those would be for the last few batteries to get to 120V or more.

I was testing a pair of DC motors one day. For no particular reason, I wired them in series. (Obviously, the input voltage for full output is now doubled) They acted very much like a differential. Put a little more load on one, the other speeds up. Lock one, the other goes twice as fast. Based on tourque curves, you can use electric motors with fixed gearing, but the takeoff acceleration is slow, giving electrics the bad rap. It also takes *huge* amounts of power to make the huge low speed tourque. The weight of the transmission is fairly trivial compared to weight of the batteries. Something like 20 x 60lbs - 1200Lbs.