DaveT

I'm not trying to be difficult. Without the troubleshooting data, I can only guess. Maybe some crud got loose and is bothering soomething. Maybe a coincidence. I am not familiar with seafoam 1st hand. I have never tried the alcohol trick. The only way I know to find the problem is by slogging through the troubleshooting. At this point, everything is suspect. I tried to list from most common / easy to check to least common / hard or expensive to check. In this, like electronics, many times you only find the answer by checking many things, ruling out the ones that aren't bad, then finding the one that's causing the problem. You don't know until you find it. There is more than one way to have the same symptom. It's not A => X, its more like A or B or C or D (...) => X. Another easy / cheap one: Check / clean the MAF also. The thing in your picture could be the anti-afterburning valve. I was hoping for someone with a carbed car to recognize it.

HC come from unburned fuel. Assuming the engine doesn't burn lots of oil- Good air cleaner- Running at normal temperature 190 degrees - must check with a thermometer. I've had bad wires that look ok, especially brands other than NGK. Plugs should be checked for fouling. The thermosensor that the emmissions control system uses to tell the engine temp. - if it fails the right way, the engine will be running rich. - I'm not 100% about this, I only have SPFI cars. I have not had this problem, only heard it can happen. Do the exhaust temp checks as mentioned in a previous post to check the cats. It's been a while, but I bought a thermocouple thermometer from Sears / craftsman for about $25.00. It works for both tests. If the HCs are high long enough, the catalytic converters will fail. O2 sensor should only effect the CO.

Based on these ^ (we don't have the others here) CO is pretty normal. HC (Hydro Carbons)comes from unburned fuel. My 92 had 51 HC @2502 RPM and 70 HC @ 790 RPM. Same limits you have. How are the plugs & wires & operating temp & burning oil? Don't panic, only to avoid burning out the catalytics... The O2 sensor can also fail in a way that the ECU doesn't notice, causing catalytic failure.

I am in the process of adding 4WD to a 2WD 3AT. It has been done. There should be holes for the differential hanger. I had to drill access holes through the floor to put nuts on the mouting bolts. You need the tubular suspension mount from the 4WD fot the front diff mount. (I made a braket and added it to the 2WD tube since it was in much better condition) I haven't gotten to the center bearing yet. Also, I have to swap the transmission for the 4WD unit. You have to add a wire or 2 for the 4WD switch / indicator.

Do NOT just press it (the caliper piston). The parking brake adjuster mechanisim will not allow it, and or be ruined. [edited for clarity]

Hmm, Well, they only let me order 1, so either they are out, or have silly quantity rules. I'll probaly have it next week.

I just figured, I might as well get the new rotors - no doubt the scrounged ones will be half used or worse. Thanks again, Dave

Are these the correct disks for converting a 4WD EA82 wagon to disk brakes? http://store.auctionfrontier.com/Items/9070_SINGLE%20RBL?sck=2588526 Thank you, Dave

All of the OE ones I have looked at had that. It is to support the wire - it can get very hot. Vibration and temperature cycles break it up over the years.

Don't worry about coating them. If you have nichrome close in diameter to what was there, it will take years to break again. I usually found some nichrome a bit larger, so low is a little faster than stock, but none have failed after repair.

On an EA82 it is mounted on the blower housing. The resistors are in the air flow path, so you can't see them. Just a rectangular cover. They have a 4 pin connector.

Ok, I missed that. Almost 20 years ago. :eek: I've never had a problem with my 3ATs. Anyways, if it has been burning lots of ATF, you can at least fill it until you get oil on the dipstick / low mark.

If the body is good, swap in an engine & tranny. Depending on weather & time, the water could be from condensation. Try to fill the cooling system. If the water doesn't stay, it's probably going through a freeze plug. (into the crank case)

...not sure what that has to do with it.:-\ You don't need the engine running to check the ATF.

I recently got faked out by that. Do the plug test. Somehow, the oil was not staying there, I couldn't see anything unusual. But it eventually burned up 2 quarts of ATF. I had the smoke intermittantly but when the tranny started slipping, I checked the level, sure enough it was low. New modulator + 2 quarts fixed both problems.

Hmmm, on the spare head I just looked at, the 2 inner ones intersect 2 of the head bolts. If they are connected to the coolant, I can't see where. There is evidence of water / coolant crud in the head bolt holes also. Maybe it was getting past the headgasket?

Probably not. The bolts are not supposed to be in contact with water. The gasket should keep them away from the coolant. But nothing's perfect, and humidity from the air could work it's way in also. Some are pretty rusted, some not so bad. The best luck I've had is soaking with Aero-kroil / WD-40 / PB blaster / etc. (insert your favorite here). Then gently turning the bolt. Alternating CCW and CW. Add more penitrant. More alternating CCW / CW. After you break a few bolts, you have a good feel for how hard to push it. Oh yeah, they don't put anti siese on them because that would cost more, and typical owners wouldn't ever deal with the problem.

I have run Amsoil gear lube in all of mine (EA82 3ATs), never had a problem in almost 20 years.

Look for a label on the bell housing near the heater hoses. If the number is EA82xxxxxx it is a 2 timing belt engine. I don't know about the Chiltons manual, there is no substitute for a factory service manual.

I'd be careful with stainless. The corrosion reaction between stainless and aluminum is worse than rust. It is very hard white stuff. I discovered it when modifying my aluminum & stainless roof rack. Grade 8 with anti-siese solves the problem. +1 for hot engine loosening stubborn & sensitive bolts. The problem with impact wrenches is you can't set / control the force fine enough. If there was a way to reliablely limit the tourque below the breaking strength of the bolt, it would probably work well. I freed up some very stuck brake adjusters with one of those little air powered hammers once, set very low.

Remove the front bumper. Then you can see them, one near each end. I believe there is a relay involved also. This is pre OBDII. Under the steering wheel there is a plastic panel that goes almost to the firewall. Remove it. There is a about 6" x 8" box that is the ECU. On the front edge is a hole. Get the angle right, and you can see a red LED. It blinks the trouble code (if any). There is no substitue for a factory service manual. I have an 86 & a 90. Best bet to get one is probably ebay. There are some minor differences between different years.

Put on NGK wires. Are the plugs clean? If it was burning oil , they could be fouled. How old is the O2 sensor? Take a drive. Long enough to heat up fully. Measure the temp of the exhaust pipe before and after each catalytic converter. Best if done at something like 1500RPM. The temperature should be higher AFTER each cat.

Could you post a picture of them?

I agree. Don't let them touch it. Sounds like it's ok now. The legal rout wouldn't be worth the cost, too small amount of $. Keep a close eye on the coolant. Maybe the intake manifold gasket/s are intermittantly leaking. I found it helps a lot to put the manifold on (no super tight) while bolting down the heads. The head sfloat around a bit, and this keeps them aligned with the manifold. As you tighten the head bolts, loosen the manifold bolts & retighten to relive any stress.

Nope. I have had many miles with no shield. When they get loose, I remove them. I've been running EA82 4WD 3AT wagons for over 15 years.