DaveT

You need to use a 10 watt resistor for reliability. The power dissipated with a 33 ohm is about 6 watts. And the engine compartment is hardly at room temperature, so maybe even a 20 watt. My solution: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html I have not had one of my upgrades fail. Almost 20 years of maintaining EA82s.

The 3AT 4WD drive is activated by an electric solenoid. ATF flows through the valve to a clutch pack to transfer power to the rear driveshaft. If the engine isn't turning, there is no ATF pressure to activate the clutch pack. I haven't done much of anything with the standard transmission since I retired my 78. I'm not sure why the 4WD lever wouldn't disengage the rear wheels - unless they happened to be bound up from normal cornering, etc. To release that, all you need to do is jack one rear wheel off the ground, & move the lever.

This is my solution: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html

Synthetic engine oil definatly helps cranking in the cold. I also use the biggest battery that will fit in the battery space. My 76 & 78 4X4s (manual) shifted same as warm weather after I started using synthetic gear lube. The 3ATs I drive now all function better cold with synthetic ATF.

A lot of people hate them. Here's my experience with them: I have owned (4) 4WD 3AT wagons. An 86, 88, 90, 92. No, they aren't sports cars. No, they aren't high MPG. They have a 4WD on the fly button. I have had 1 transmission failure in almost 20 years. And that was really the differential, and it failed due to low diff oil. (sneaky slow leak & I wasn't checking often enough) All of them have made it to 150Kmiles or more, one to 205K. I ocasionally tow a 1000Lb trailer, and or heavy loads in the wagon. I don't baby them. I do run synthetic ATF, change at about 100K miles. I put the 3AT from my 86 (wrecked in an accident) into my "new" 87. It also spent a few years in my 88, before it rusted away. (the 88 had the diff failure) The 87 should be around for 10 years or more.

The blower motor case is not part of any electric circuit. The motor has 2 wires for electrical power connection.

My solution has been to put a box end wrench on one of the 4 bolts that holds the tourque converter to the sheet metal that connects to the crankshaft. The wrench stops the rotation when it touches the side of the timing view port. But that probably only works on an AT....

I had a friend push me in my 86 3AT 4WD wagon home (broken timing belt). About 10 miles. The 4WD can not activate if the engine isn't running. We only traveled on streets, no highways. Under 40MPH. The only part of the drivetrain that should be at risk is the automatic transmission output shafts / bearings, since the ATF pump isn't running. But the rear output tail shaft is below the oil level, and the FWD (internal to the case) drive is pretty low in the housing also. That 86 transmission is still working, now in it's 3rd car, my 87. Not sure if it made any difference - I use synthertic ATF. It does help them shift better in winter.

The white plastic devices in your picture labeled "Dashpots:" are actually vacuum servos.

If you look close, near the top of the windshield, you can see 2 cross pieces. The over the hood part of the rack un pins between the 2 cross pieces, and the 2 vertical supports from the bumper un pin, so most of the time I only have the rack roughly the size of the roof. I only put the front part on when I know I need it.

Here's a recent, relativly tame load:

Not resistor. Possibly the contact that feeds power to the switch. There are a few others in the wiring also. Possibly motor. I guess I'd start with a voltmeter check on the 2 leads of the motor. Lead to lead, lead 1 to ground, lead 2 to ground. That will tell a lot. While it is not working properly.

That would be me... Here's my web page: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html

I've had EA82 wagons from 86 to 92, all have the same plugs & connectors on the heater blower.

That (#58) was my post. The only non stock resistor is the 1 ohm for the slowest speed. It's close, but just a bit slower than stock for the lowest setting. I have not had one of my modified ones fail. I've been running EA82 wagons since about 1988. I'm not sure why the list / columns got all messed up. I don't remember them that way originally. Probably +- 10% on the values won't make the blower speeds way off. I would bolt those aluminum resistors to a plate (not just the plastic) also. The power ratings assume a heatsink.

This is correct. Also the reason they are air cooled by the blower. Dave

I have found that EA82s have the harness, if not the mirrors. My 1986 originally came with the manual mirrors. The upgrade only required me to add the 2 mirrors and the switch.

The vacuum cleaner test tests the flow capacity of the exhaust system isolated from the engine. The vacuum pressure drop is very low. It would be measured in inches of water, or possibly fractions of an inch of water. A manifold vacuum gauge measures in inches of mercury. You also need to move a huge volume of air through the exhaust system to simulate what the engine pushes through it. If the engine only pumped air through (like when cranking)--- 1800CC = .06 cubic feet. 4 cylinders takes 2 revolutions for each to fire once. 1000 RPM / 2 = 500 engine displacement volumes per minute. 500 x .06 = 30 CFM So 2000 RPM would be 60 CFM 4000 RPM would be 120 CFM The CFM exiting a running engine would be higher, I think, because the expanding gasses from combustion are not released from the cylinders at atmospheric pressure. From looking around a bit, something like 3-4 times higher. It varies with all kinds of things, especially how open the throttle is.

Here's my solution for Subaru vaccume solenoids: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html

Be careful using "mystery" bolts or body / trim bolts for engine parts. Most engine bolts are harder / higher strength than the body / trim bolts.

Well, I cheated. I saved a set or 2 from cars I dissasembled for future anticipated use. I've also thought about using RTV to rebuild a broken / bad spot, using saran wrap as a release layer and whatever else to hold the required shape while curing. I just have not had to do it yet....

The worst dead gas I have used needed about 2 gallons (dead) + 6 gallons (new) added to fill the tank. I'm not sure how old my dead gas was, it varies. The best I had ran ok straight, most was about 50/50. Best to add a gallon at a time to an almost full tank to figure out the ratio that works. Hard starting = too much dead gas. The ECU seems to adapt to it once the engine is up to temp. Be sure you don't transfer any water! Have not had any trouble other than 1 time I got some water in the gas filter. I ran it through a 3 micron filter before it went in the car.

I had bad luck with fuel line. If you use it, check it often. It will work for a while. NAPA has small diameter coolant hose that will work for that line. I think I used 1/4" for that one.

I have used this product for years. It works for hidden and hard to get at areas. Not super tough against abrasion. great for inside rocker panels & doors & where layers of metal meet and form all those places water can sit. http://www.edirectory.co.uk/pf/880/mia/d/hammerite+waxoyl+clear+starter+kit+25+litre/pid/1346828 I have not tried this: (how to make your own - but it sounds ok) http://www.realbig.com/miata/1995-02/772.html

I got a 2 row there a number of months ago. All copper & brass, and not made in china junk. I shouldn't need a new one for 5-10 years, but If they become unavailable, I will get an old one re cored.