DaveT

The picture helps (BTW, how do you get the full sized pic in the post?) The only reason the air flows as the arrows show is that the engine manifold vacuum is lower pressure than the air at the air cleaner. It will only flow that direction when the manifold vacuum is stronger than at the air cleaner. If you remove the hose from the PCV valve side, air will come out normally. It will also come out the other side, wether it is connected to the air cleaner or not. If you remove the side opposite the PCV, air may come out, depending on the pressure differential. I never tested to see if the suction to the PCV was strong enough to remove all the blow by and make noticeable suction on the opposite port. The pressure differential varies with engine RPM and throttle position. The relation of throttle position and engine RPM depends on the engine load. I can't think of any way the pistons / valvetrain could effect air flow - the clearances are far to large for any of them to pump air from one side to the other. My experiences with test running engines in car & on stand have always been air exits both sides when the PCV hoses are disconnected. The PCV valve has springs in it that allow it to be open or closed at particular pressure differentials & flow rates. I'm not sure if I have an old EA71 PCV valve to look at. I remember a thread or 2 about adding an oil seperator to the PCV lines a while back.

There is an official Subaru modification kit to fix this problem. I do not know if it is still available. Refering to this picture: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6112&d=1233549601 The kit includes the "T" at A, and the "T" at B, the plug at C, and the hose between them. This picture is after the kit is installed. The original system had a small ellbow at C, a smaller hose from C to the "T" at B, and the original "T" had a smaller port. Also, an ellbow at A. After installing this kit, I have never had the problem again.

I haven't touched one of those in about 20 years. But I did rebuild one back then. I don't remeber the PCV hose configuration.

I'm not sure about the weird reving. 16V is too high. Check with a multimeter. back of alternator and battery. They normally should be close. If there is more than some tenths of a volt, check the electrical connections from the alternator to the battery. Should be the big wire on the back with a nut, not the little plug on ones. Looking for high resistance / burned contacts. Possibly one of the fusable links? (check the schematic)

I can take some tomorrow. There might be a thread on here somewhere, I mentioned it once quite a while ago. What it does is make both rocker cover vents the same size all the way back to the air intake. Original on non turbo SPFI had the passenger side 1/2" all the way, driver's side dropped down to maybe 1/4" part of the run up by the intake boot. The kit had a T and a cap and a hose or 2 to make all 1/2".

That's just wierd. Not trying to argue. The oil return passages from the rocker cover areas are large & irregular shaped. They go through the cam carriers, through the heads, through the block, into the oil pan. I have dissasembled these engines. There is nothing in them to direct airflow in any direction. With both hoses open, I can't imagine any reason the "air" wouldn't exit both aproximately even. Could the description in the FSM be describing the flow under normal, original system (that is, before the mod that fixes the smoke show while turning) which had different size fittings & flow paths from the 2 sides in place?

I didn't mean to imply disableing or neglecting the PCV system. I was only addressing the idea of blow by with the hoses off being normal. The smoke show during hard turns can be fixed by a Subaru modification kit. No more smoke shows for me.

There is no seperation between the heads / rocker covers in the block. Any pressure under the pistons will freely vent from both covers. If it's running good, not burning oil, getting the usual MPG, probably nothing wrong.

Here's what I have done for the last 20 years. Replace belts between 40-50K miles. I never had one make it to 60K. Even the originals. New bearings on the idlers w/ new belts. Put belts on. Roughly tension them. Run the engine for 10 - 20 seconds. This lets the belts walk to where they want to run. Adjust the tension, using the new belt tension numbers from the FSM. The FSM lists lower tension for used belts. I have re checked them ocasionally, the extra tension seems to take care of the new belt stretch. Another advantage too the short run is you get to see how the belts track. I actually had one that wanted to run hard up against the flange on the crank pully. I flipped the belt, and it ran true.

I've been running EA82s for about 20 years. Also have an 01 Forester. I used to curse the timing belt system on the EA82s for the short life. Until I had to replace the belt on the Forester. You have to replace the timing belts about twice as often on the EA82 / Loyale, but the parts are *far* cheaper.

While that sounds like a good idea, the space between the bearings would have to be full of grease for the new to get into the bearings. The old dirty stuff would have to ooz out past the seals. Possibly even push them out. Brakes wouldn't work very well soon after that. I put zerks on my trailer dust caps years ago, and after a few runs, found the inner bearing seals poped out due to the expansion from normal warming during use! Grease doen't compress like the air that would normally have been in there. I think the bearing buddies for trailers have springs to allow for the expansion.

I use Waxoyl on the inside of any rusted area. Next exterior rust repair I do will be POR 15 on the outside.

The holes in the block are about 1/2" deep. The bolts are different lengths, as stated previously.

If by very hot you mean very close to engine temperature, coolant must be flowing. That would make me think somehow the air isn't getting through the core. Or the core has none of the fine fins left.

Ok, something isn't correct here. The stock Subaru solenoid is the rusty part in the picture on my web site. http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html The EGR valve is bigger, round, mounts on the rear of the intake manifold. It can get carbon built up on the internal valve bits. 2 bolts hold it on. It has 1 vacuume hose, that goes to the Solenoid. Can you post a picture of the item you want to test?

Are the blinks all the same length? Normally, there are some long, then some short. 6 or 66 is not a trouble code. There is a "no trouble" code, I don't remeber if it was 6 or 7 blinks. I didn't find mention of that in the service manual when I was looking for your 6 / 66. But I know it is mentioned in there somewhere.

Do you get any codes just reading the LED? Just turn on the key to run, look at the ECU under the steering wheel.

Here's how I fix it: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html To test the solenoid, unplug it from the harness. Apply 12VDC across the 2 pins. If it clicks, it is ok. It most likely won't. The ECU only can tell if the solenoid has failed open circuit.

Did water flow easily through the core?? Does air flow well through the HVAC system? Assuming the above are true and the car runs at normal temperature while driving: With the engine up to operating temp, operate the heater as you described to get the warm air for a short time. Monitor the supply and return lines to the heater core. Before the blower is on, they should be the same temperature. After the blower is on, the return line should be a little cooler - but still pretty hot. If there is some obstruction reducing the coolant flow, the return line should cool way down. Also, check the lines near the firewall, and near the engine. If coolant is flowing normally, they should be close to the same temperature. If the coolant isn't flowing, I would expect to find the highest temps near the engine, coolest near the firewall. If you're not sure what the temps should be, compare to your other car. Also look at the air dam controlled by the temperature setting on the heater control panel. It directs air through the core or around it. About not seeing circulation in the radiator cap: With the engine not under load, the thermostat will only open ocasionally, so you would have to watch for a while.

Also, check that all 4 tires are the same make / model and treadwear. If they are different, they will have different diameters, and aggrivate the clunk. If they are different, it isn't as bad as an all wheel drive, since you only switch to 4WD when the road is slippery.

I'd think 3 or 4 times about them... Not to spoil the fun, but I've seen so much junk from there, I avoid anything MIC. Not to mention, the poison pet food, lead painted toys, etc.

Water pump change: might as well. Change the tensioners. I made 2 sets that I can replace the bearings on. I have replaced the seals in the oil pump - a specilal "mickey mouse" one, a couple of o rings, and a shaft seal. I got them with an engine reseal kit. Idler gear bearing can be replaced. Use contact seal bearings for the 3 idlers. Usually the seals are a dark reddish color, not black. Cam seals and the O-rings on the seal carriers. Refill the coolant, re check before each run for a while. You don't want to overheat due to low coolant. Check by squeezing the upper rad hose, listen for the jiggle pin & no air gurgle. Also the level in the recovery bottle.

I've seen the voltmeter start to drop more than normal (at idle) when the battery is at end of life, 5+ years old. A couple of things with the alternator could show up also: one of the slip ring brushes worn out. one of the rectifier diodes open. Either would reduce the maximum current output, making it less likely to keep up with the loads.

Excelent.

This will work for the purge solenoid (evaporative emmissions) also: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html