DaveT

Try this place: http://www.subaru-parts-dealer.com/

Are you still getting error codes? Check the engine wiring harness carefully. I have found a wire broken inside it's insulation, and on another, a wire rubbed 1/2 way through.

I'll add this - replace ALL of the coolant hoses. 2 big ones of course. But also the 2 heater hoses. And the 3 small ones on the engine. Make sure the radiator is solid good condition. Check coolant level frequently. If it slowly lowers with no apparent dripping, keep a close eye on the intake manifold gaskets.

Not much to loose by trying. Clean it first. Use a new flexible piece of wire. Seal it up with some electrical grade RTV after.

I also got a reply from Permatex. Confirming that any sealant that is visible will not cure. I knew it did not require air to cure - I didn't know it would not cure in the presence of air.

+1 on the radiator also. I have yet to see one of mine overheat due to the fan thermostat failing. It is critical to keep a close eye on coolant level - in both the recovery bottle, and the radiator itself. In my experience, every time I've had one of these EA82 engines run low enough on coolant to read a little hot on the gauge, they need new head gaskets. Sometimes immediately, sometimes a few months down the road. What has happened is a small leak, pushes exhaust into the coolant passages. Eventually, this pushes coolant out, overflowing the recovery bottle. Enough cycles, and you are very low on coolant, more overheat, accelerating the leak. Check your coolant level every day at least. Every trip is safer, until you verify everything is ok. If there is air in the radiator after a few trips, that's bad news...

What model car? I've had Loyale / GLs fail with no light on. Bad Catalytic can do it. The computer does not know if the cat is working in these older cars.

I bought a 1993 Loyale. Body is near mint condition. The previous owner had some cooling trouble just before I got the truck to pick it up. Long story short, the headgasket/s are blown. I am re assembling another known good EA82 engine that I already had from another one of my cars. But I need the intake from this 93 since it is the only California car I have. So I remove it, and the coolant passages are partially coated with crusty orange crud. Some flakes off, some is very stuck to the aluminum. I can't get at every passage - so what to do? What could this be, I've never seen this kind of crud in a cooling system. What might remove it? I'll have to check the radiator and the heater core before running the car!

This is a picture of the cam carrier seal mod.

I use the OEM reenforced o rings for the oil passage also. What I am referring to is the groove in the cam carrier that is usually filled with the anaerobic sealant.

It happens that the engine I am working on now has gen 2 heads. What are the differences between the 1,2,3 generations?

Oh, good. Thank you! I really didn't want to have to be delayed and re do it. The engine I reassembled a month ago, I had more time with, and got fancy. I used my dremel to widen the groove enough to fit o-ring cord into it. It sealed up nicely!

Ever have to remove the oil pump nut? Don't want to remove the pump first? Note the piece of aluminum placed between the timing pulleys.

Last night, I assembled the cam carriers to the heads on an EA82 engine. I used the Permatex anaerobic gasket maker and surface prep activator. The exposed stuff that oosed out of the joint when I tightened the bolts has still not set at all. Is this normal? OR What went wrong?

putting bigger diameter tires - the outside tread diameter, not the rim - is like putting in a higher gear. Except all your gears are higher. You get more speed on the flat for the same engine RPM, but in these cars, the engine is just barely enough power as it is...

I run nothing but EA82 #AT wagons. The last thing I would do is put tires with bigger diameter on them.

I have not tried it on body / frame. If you can get the hot air on the nut area, I suppose it could help. penetrating oil and careful wrench work is what I've used on steel on steel bolts. Sometimes, rocking the bolt back and forth and gradually the unscrew direction goes farther and farther. Usually, with the body & frame bolts there is a length past the nut that has rust and or dirt on it. Better to knock / work it off rather than just trying to drag it through the nut.

I've removed the tie rod ends. Also replaced them. Adjusted alignment. Even with it out of whack enough to ruin tires alignment didn't cause shimmy or vibration.

I just had a car hauled by truck from CA to CT. Cost $1000.

I've seen some old school builders use heat guns when setting head bolt/stud torque to prevent having to re-torque in the car. Makes me wonder if the EA motors could benefit. I need an oven that can fit a longblock! Interesting. I've used the Fell Pro gaskets. Perma torque head gaskets. I've seen other comments on here over the years reporting good results. I have an engine I re sealed with them, and they are still good, without retorqueing. Ran it in 2 cars over quite a few years. Unfortunately, one of the heads cracked recently. Coolant out the exhaust port. I ran it with a zero pressure radiator cap for a while, but had to give up on it when most of the coolant recovery tank would drain while sitting at work.

I've used the flame wrench on things also. But for the deep bolts, like intake manifold, or head bolts, you have a LOT of metal to heat up, and this has no open flame, and less risk of over cooking.

Heat gun clamped to a C stand. Also used an electric space heater just below the engine to help. Get the engine up to near operating temperature, and the bolts unscrew without breaking. So far, this has worked every time. If the engine is still in the car, and runs, just take a drive and then remove them. I also used this to get the EGR pipe on an EA82 unscrewed.

I cleared one by working through the O2 sensor hole, but it took longer.

It actually has both types of sender already. They screw into different ports on the oil pump.

I just got a 1993 Loyale. EA82, 3AT, 4WD. Unlike all my previous Loyales and GLs the instrument panel does not have oil pressure or volt meter. I have a few spare combination meters with oil pressure and voltmeters. The engine even has the oil pressure sender installed - the wire is connected to the pressure switch. I'm guessing they probably used the same wire in the harness, so plugging in the fancy meter and moving the wire to the sensor should make it work. I need a look at the schematics for the 1993 to figure out if the wiring is there, or if I have to add wires to get them to work if I swap in the fancier combo meter. Or has anyone done this?