DaveT

Yes, you need to provide oil to the input. Probably want an oil separator after the output. The output can run near 300PSI when running as an A/C compressor, so a regulator and a high limit switch to disengage the clutch it would be a good idea!

I've got an carb'ed 86 3AT in an 87 SPFI. Before that it was in an 88 SPFI. Nothing other than bolting it in.

That looks like a condenser core (the one in front of the radiator). The evaporator is up under the dashboard.

Well, we checked a few things tonight. Timing belt looks ok, the 2 cam pulley marks line up. Couldn't get to the Crank mark in the alotted time.., so I suppose it's not a complete check. There is only 1 switch on the clutch pedal, and it is the starter lockout, and works for that. We are pretty much stuck at this point... Short of getting an identical parts car, and swapping things...

A few more notes: Idling in first gear, on flat road / driveway: cold, stalls out. Warmed up, rough at times, but doesn't stall. Traveling about 40MPH: Cold, let clutch out or slip shifter out of gear without clutch, dies. Smoothly to zero RPM. Warm, not as often, only sometimes. Sometimes, RPM drops smoothly to about 1000, then hesitates, drops to <500. & dies.

Hi all, Thanks for the help so far. I've driven the car in question a few times now. When it's cold, the engine dies at idle. 400' from the garage to street, dies. 2 miles (down hill mostly) to the on ramp, dies. Restarted just by letting the clutch back out that time. After it's warm, it just idles roughly. This behavior is pretty consistent. The clutch isn't hanging up. We will have to check the switches mentioned above, and the timing belt.

Yes, The hood is painted! Why? Because I have discoverded the thrill of doing this: So far, it's only the hood... I can't decide what to do to the sides...

Custom paint job

#2 & #4 changed out. Seems to have fixed the problem. I had to be very careful removing the plugs, to get them freed up. Turn a little CCW, then CW, for the first revolution or 2. Next time, I'll have to remove them w/ the engine warmed up. No fun to work on that way, but I've found almost any threaded part will come out easier with the engine hot.

I got the #1 & #3 plugs & wires changed out, it runs much better now. The old plugs had about .070 gaps! The only reason I haven't got the other 2 yet is time. It really is annoying that they are so buried. 2 & 4 get done this weekend.

Fuel & air filters had no effect, didn't really expect them to. Plugs & wires ordered. Will Update in a day or 2.

Hi all, Our 2001 2.5L automatic forester has a problem. Starts & idles normally. Usually runs (cruises) normal. When "hitting the gas" to get going, the engine stumbles, then "kicks in". Low RPM + open throttle it doesn't like. Once the RPMs get up, it smooths out, seems normal. When driving normally with the auto transmission, each time it upshifts, dropping the RPMs down into the stumbling, until it revs up again. It seems worse when cold. When I pulled back into the driveway, it more does a little skip than a stumble when I tap the gas (in neutral). I read the codes, all I get is 0420 (slow cat / response) (very old news, never could get rid of that one, I'm not buying all oem parts for that, too many $). It's been running fine that way for years. I also have a new code 0303 cylinder #3 misfire. Any ideas? I'll have to do the usual plugs & wires, filters thing - probably time for them anyway. Thanks, Dave

We connected a vacume gauge to the intake this evening. It read about 16-17. It varied with the roughness. The engine idles rough. Not like one cylender is always skipping, more randomly. And it was warmed up / operating temp. Sometimes smooths out a bit. A code reader showed 0301 & 0304 - missfires on cylender 1 & 4. Didn't find any bad vacuum lines. Cleaned the PCV valve. Noticed that the Idle air valve had been swapped by the dealer repair attempts, which made no difference. I'm surprised by the combo of shotgunning / guessing they did and the nerve to keep charging for all of their guesses! I'm glad I don't pay anyone to fix my cars! But I specialize in the older gens, so I need a little help on this newer version. We found the MAF sensor, decided to get whatever gasket / oring they use before removing it to check it. Checked the TPS, it seems to send a signal that varies smoothly with position. It got late, and the absolute reading didn't match what the Haynes and the FSM claim. Not sure what to make of that. If it were way off, I'd expect the ECU to throw a code for it. My ohmmeter read 517 ohms with closed throttle. The plugs were replaced by the dealer, (they would use NGK, no?) but if that is still a high likelyhood, we'll try them next time. Thank you, Dave

[quote=2000 Legacy; I think I spent 3 hours doing this 2000 Legacy I've had that happen on forums ocasionally. For long posts, I compose them on my email program, or the like, then copy & past to the forum window.

I may be able to help with those. Are you refering to (temporarily) connecting a vacuum gauge to the intake? I have a laptop based scanner program - and the cable that connects to a 2001 Forester - an OBDII ECU. I never had a Legacy, but by the year, I'm guessing it might be OBDII also. The other mention of the idle control valve sounds like a good thing to check also.

A few nights ago, I was driving back home from a friend's house in my 92 4WD wagon. Crusing along a state road, probably about 50MPH. Nice clear night, a little windy though. I see a little snow up ahead, switch on the 4WD, and find myself in blizzard conditions - can hardly see, 6-8" of unplowed rutted snow on the road! (the wind was drifting the snow across the road from the open field) Foot off gas, dropped the 3AT to 2nd, and lots of steering to stay on the road, until I regained control.

My roof rack: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/Subaru/wagon87r1s.JPG

One of mine was doing that. Since I have 2 identical cars, I learned whrer the tach is for a few of the MPH speeds, and drove it by the tach. Eventually, it stopped sticking. My guess is it is something in the gauge itself. If the cable stuck, it would break off and read zero. It's driven by a gear in the tranny

Reminds me of a couple of my incidents. Years ago, I picked up a friend whos car was one of the big high power sports cars. We were waiting to turn left, lots of traffic, in the rain. Anyway, he was impressed when I dumped the clutch & jumped right into the flow. With my 1400 4WD wagon. Another rainy night, was the typical guy pulls up alongside at the light & revs. I was way ahead by the time I got to the speed limit +5MPH. Of course, he blew by after that, but still... I don't remeber which car it was though.

Check the small hose behind the throttle body. another from the thermostat housing to the block. Small one from water pump to steel line that goes to one of the heater hoses. A failing intake manifold gasket can put coolant on top of the engine also.

NOTE:use at your own risk! This method generates a nice fuel air mixture around the engine. I just shot some carb cleaner on the pullys while the engine was idling. Cleaned the belts & pullys off very well.

Timing belts & idlers?

Yes, they are not very model specific.

They definitely do. The ones I got from a scrap yard in the late 80's STILL work. The cars were similar age & size to the Loyale models. Pretty much any model had 2 or more solenoids under the hood.

My web page for solenoid replacement: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html