DaveT

What model car?

I have not seen one comment stating that using hydrogen as a fuel wouldn't power a car..

There is also a chance that mixing the output of the device with the conventional consumption of gasoline that it changes the air fuel ratio or some other aspect. That is entirely different than what is in the video.

First video. I did not take long until the guys talking about powering an engine with water speaking scientific gobledy gook. The small "cells" that were shown do not come close to generating enough Hydrogen & Oxygen to power a car sized engine. Think about your engine displacement. 1.8 L of air gets pumped through it every 2 revolutions at full power. That is a BIG number of CFM. That is how much uncompressed Hydrogen & Oxygen you would need to supply it.

That might explain the single v belt.

Mine all use 2 v belts - 4wd, power steering, A/C. All ea82 engines have 2 timing belts.

That's not long ago, unless you drove it an awful lot... The V belts? if they have cracks or worse, replace them. The timing belts, every 50K miles to be safe. 40K really safe. All 3 Idlers at the same time. Way back when they cost $90.00 each, I made custom ones with replaceable bearings. So I just replace the bearings, for like $9.00 each.

I just looked at one of my spare engines. You might be able to do it without removing them - But you have to remove the idler / tensioner for the belt that goes under the pump. If you put the engine in the position for installing that belt before you loosen it, and pop it off the pulley, you should be able to get it back on correctly. I just never bothered, having done the belts countless times, it doesn't bother me. How many miles are on them?

I think gear lube rated for LSD just has some additive / characteristic for the friction / clutch parts that make the LSD function. I don't know of a reason that it would hurt a non-LSD diff.

these engines are made to turn high RPMs. It's not a problem for them. It's why they have the double valve springs. Lugging them down [too low RPM with heavy throttle] is not good for them.

To replace the water pump, you have to remove the plastic covers and the timing belts. I would replace the pump also. If stuff got hit that hard, and the fan won't come off, something's messed up with it. Who knows if the seals and or bearings are still good.

I've been using Amsoil Synthetic gear lube in them since 1988.

I have been driving 3AT loyales for many years. Normal to be 4000rpm at 65 mph.

Could be intake manifold gaskets leaking into the intake. Also the gasket under the throttle body. It is odd in my experience that the recovery bottle level is dropping - unless you wait until the engine is cold

It may also stop the sensor from working as it is an insulator. Just be sure to check.

The easiest way I have removed the intake manifold bolts is to run the car until it's up to normal operating temperature. Then shut down. Immediately remove the bolts. If it can't / won't run, heat gun and a space heater to cause the same effect.

I'm curious to see what you find. I've read about this stuff various times over the years. I have a big electronics & science background, and fall more in the 2nd group. Most of the sites I've read about it, turn out to be someone trying to sell stuff, or someone that doesn't really know what they are talking about. For those who are running some variant of this, I'm not questioning that something you have done has made a difference in MPG, but why it's different.

I recently bought a 1993 Loyale. I've had to do a bunch of work to get it ready for daily driver use. Among other things, I discovered that the heater core tubes were crushed by someone overtightening the hose clamps. I did not want to remove the core and replace it with one of my spares. I used my 1/4" drive deep sockets to un crush them. Put a little grease on the biggest one that wuldn';t slip right in, and tapped it in. Had to use channel lock pliers to pull it out. Turning the socket with the ratchet simultaneously helps. Once I got to where the next bigger was too big, I used brass shim stock to gradually get as far as possible to original ID. Place the shim in the pipe, then start the socket. I decided that since the tubes had already been crushed, it would be good to reinforce them. I found that sweat couplings for 1/2" refrigeration tubing are very close to the correct size. I had to grind them down on my belt sander about .010. Put a little grease on, the tap into the tube. Took a while, this is a job for patience and being careful, but still far less time than pulling the dash.

Then use the spring compressor to safely unload the makeshift clamp / strap. Be very careful, lots of stored energy there.

If my strut spring compressor wouldn't fit in there, I'd put the cat on the ground, use chain or straps to tie the coils in place. At least on 2 sides. Then jack it up. Depending on how much wiggle room to get it out then remove things mentioned in the post above.

If you remove the a,le, you can see the seal. I have not done one of those yet... but I have replaced seals in similar situations. I've done it 2 ways. Either drill or punch a small hole in the seal. Screw a sheet metal screw into the hole. Pry on screw to pop the seal out. If you choose drilling, be careful about chips and slipping too far in when it breaks through. If you choose punch, be wary of pushing the seal into the case. It likely will only move in until it hits the bearing, but I am not sure of the design of this part of the 3AT.

The lowest speed resistor often fails on it's own. Anything that would block airflow over the resistors would accelerate their failure.

I've thought about adding a 5 point also. Be curious to know how it shifts the risks.

On the older models - Loyale and back - the front drive and the rear drive do not have a center diff, so power goes to at least 2 wheels - 1 front & 1 rear, even if you are on ice. Somewhere [manual or shop manual] I read that some models had limited slip diffs.