DaveT

New ones on ebay for around $100.. So how about $50?

I have a flywheel also. And a new clutch plate and throw out bearing. And a used 5 speed 4WD transmission.

Did you replace ALL 7 hoses?

Hmm, if I'm reading this correctly- There are some 3AT's with a slightly different ratio? Is there a way to know? I have a 1992 that turns about 4000 at 65MPH. I also have a 1986 [in my 1987 body] - it turns a few hundred lower, and seems a little less peppy compared to the 1992. My 1990 felt the same as the 1992. I also had a 1988, but don't remember how it was, as my wife drove it mostly.

Hi, I'm looking for a few suggestions for buying Subaru parts online. Mostly things like the Intake gaskets, reinforced o-rings for the oil passages to the overhead cams. Those "best if factory" little parts. I had found one years ago, but lost the link, and the one I tried never responded, so I'm guessing that it was either the wrong place, or they no longer bother. Dave

There are 2 wires in the plug on the coil of the air valve. Apply 12V to the 2 wires. You should hear a click. The air path through the 3 air ports should change. 1 is the "Common" port, the other 2 are the normally open and normally closed.

Oh, these are great to know! I got the whole top / head set gasket kit from Fel-Pro, so all will be new. The old cam tower cover gaskets I may have replaced once in the past. Off to see what the orings look like, and find that head resurfacing thread. I was looking at them last night, and thinking they really need it. I can see & feel a slight imprint of the steel part of the original head gasket.

I have solved the o-ring / memory mystery. Came across the old OEM head gasket. It has a bigger hole with a separate o-ring.

I'm ready to re install the heads on this EA82 engine. I have a set of Fel-Pro Permatourque head gaskets. Are there any tricks or little details to watch out for? Of course, I'll follow the sequence and 3 steps. I know not to use sealant on head gaskets. For some reason, I half remember an o-ring for the oil passage - but I could be thinking of an older model engine? The Fel-Pro gasket has a small metallic ring as part of the gasket for the oil passage. Looking at it and the block, there really isn't a good surface for one to seal against anyway, so I suspect my memory is wrong.

Like was already mentioned - replace ALL of the hoses that you do not know the age of. I've noticed that those smaller ones are often neglected, and they all age at the same rate. 2 radiator hoses, 2 heater hoses, the small one from the thermostat to engine block, small one at the rear of the throttle body, and a short 90 degree bend right above the water pump. That last one is hard to see, but it is there.. You do not want to run an EA82 with low coolant.

Looks like 3 short + 6 long then. I have to look around more. I don't have enough short bolts. Nuts.

Extra bolts from another engine got mixed in.. Thus the uncertainty on quantities.

It's been a while... Anyway, I need to finaly put an engine back together. Something like 10 years since I dissassembled it... I noticed there are 2 different lengths of head bolts. It looks like there should be 3 shorter ones in a line just under the valve springs. Is this correct? Back story: I took it apart back then to do a re-seal. It was leaking oil at a stupid rate, as is typical. I had that engine from when it had 15,000 miles on it. Drove it past 150,000 with synthertic oil and a bypass filter. Never changed oil, just added as needed. Checked a crank bearing & wrist pin, both in the best condition / original spec I've seen in the handful of engines I've rebuilt / dissassembled. And there it has sat, parts in boxes. Anyway, lots of other things kept me busy - like building a house - and I ended up with other spare engines, so I have not needed to re assemble it until now. Thus I don't remember which bolts were short / long / where they were...

I've been driving EA 82 models since 1988. My experience has been once overheated by low coolant, it is only a matter of time until you need a headgasket. Usually I've seen slow leak between cylinder &coolant system. Oil / combustion residue in coolant bottle. Coolant slowly dissapearing. Bubbles slow in recovery bottle. This is all for a mild overheat. Longer / hotter, worse things happen, like coolant in the crank case, and burning lots of oil.

I've never had to buy one. For GL / Loyales... I am driving a 1987 with original bearings. Under 90K miles, though. I ran my 1990 to 200K+ miles. A few others made it or are at 150K+. None needed wheel bearings. Occasionally, I load them up pretty heavily, too. I'm sure they can fail, I just haven't had it happen. I started running these models in 1988. Before that, I was running 1976 & 1978 wagons. Same thing. Maybe I'm lucky?

I did mark them with a chisel... Or I should say thought I did. When I went to put the bolt back in place, I discovered I couldn't find the mark. [i don't get that, but whatever] I also wasn't sure about how much play there would be, or if it would matter. So I used what I have laying around.

I had to replace the knuckle on my 2001 forester. [because the CVJ shaft is stuck in the hub, and I need to replace the boots.] Anyway, this is how I restored the camber setting when I reassembled it. http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/Falignment.html

For me... I'm sticking with SPFI EA82 / loyale / GL 3AT 4WD wagons. I've been running them for 20+ years. For as long as I can keep them running, & ahead of rust. They do what I need. They cost little. I know the quirks to keep them going. I can fit bigger things into them than any of the newer models I've attempted. They are in the zone of no longer having to be emission tested here. So the "perfect" one to start with, is a SPFI 3AT 4WD Wagon, with no rust. Everything else, I can fix, no problem. Don't care about the miles. Don't care if it runs. I'd drive a stick, except 2 things: Operating the clutch bothers my knee. Wife can't drive stick, and it her car is being repaired, she can use mine.

Wow, thanks everyone! I used my [killed by rust] 1990 as a template. So the "bottom" side is pretty wrecked. I used a tire & the rear seat to pad it. It worked the first time, but the second, something hit wrong and broke the glass. Oh well. The front pieces are 1-3/4" pipe. From the Y back is all 2". Mostly because I could only find 2" and bigger flanges pre made. I might do mufflers in the next year or so. I was thinking of cutting an old one open to copy it - but make the holes slightly bigger. I did the "hot rod" muffler thing years ago, and it was fun - except on long drives... I did think I could make a stainless valve to go from normal / quiet to obnoxious... Sound... It doesn't leak. It does have a slightly different sound. It seems to wind up a little higher & smoother at the top of the tach. than the old aftermarket & original pipes I had on there. [the cats were hollow on those old pipes] I would have to find someone to cut the engine flanges. They are 3/8" thick. There is a shop locally that would make this kind of thing for any car. For about $1500.00. I think I remember them saying they would make me 2 for about $1000.00 each. The jigs were made from unistrut and various clamps. They would have to be re made. Once I was done with the Y, I needed the parts to do the mid pipe. I can ask around, see what I can find out about making a few.

I've been away from the forum for a while... I built a couple stainless steel exhaust systems: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/exhaust.html

The thing in the mid pipe is a second cat, not a resonator...

Try moving the harness more. I had a wire fail in the engine harness on one of my cars some years ago. I eventually found it by using an ohm meter while flexing the harness to narrow down where the break was.

The 4WD button is now momentary

I'm sorry to hear this. Glad of no serious injuries. Annoyed by government crap making it worse. Yep, it might be fixable.

A little exhaust project.... The car in the pic is just for fitting. The system is going on my drivable cars.