DaveT

I've removed the tie rod ends. Also replaced them. Adjusted alignment. Even with it out of whack enough to ruin tires alignment didn't cause shimmy or vibration.

I just had a car hauled by truck from CA to CT. Cost $1000.

I've seen some old school builders use heat guns when setting head bolt/stud torque to prevent having to re-torque in the car. Makes me wonder if the EA motors could benefit. I need an oven that can fit a longblock! Interesting. I've used the Fell Pro gaskets. Perma torque head gaskets. I've seen other comments on here over the years reporting good results. I have an engine I re sealed with them, and they are still good, without retorqueing. Ran it in 2 cars over quite a few years. Unfortunately, one of the heads cracked recently. Coolant out the exhaust port. I ran it with a zero pressure radiator cap for a while, but had to give up on it when most of the coolant recovery tank would drain while sitting at work.

I've used the flame wrench on things also. But for the deep bolts, like intake manifold, or head bolts, you have a LOT of metal to heat up, and this has no open flame, and less risk of over cooking.

Heat gun clamped to a C stand. Also used an electric space heater just below the engine to help. Get the engine up to near operating temperature, and the bolts unscrew without breaking. So far, this has worked every time. If the engine is still in the car, and runs, just take a drive and then remove them. I also used this to get the EGR pipe on an EA82 unscrewed.

I cleared one by working through the O2 sensor hole, but it took longer.

It actually has both types of sender already. They screw into different ports on the oil pump.

I just got a 1993 Loyale. EA82, 3AT, 4WD. Unlike all my previous Loyales and GLs the instrument panel does not have oil pressure or volt meter. I have a few spare combination meters with oil pressure and voltmeters. The engine even has the oil pressure sender installed - the wire is connected to the pressure switch. I'm guessing they probably used the same wire in the harness, so plugging in the fancy meter and moving the wire to the sensor should make it work. I need a look at the schematics for the 1993 to figure out if the wiring is there, or if I have to add wires to get them to work if I swap in the fancier combo meter. Or has anyone done this?

New ones on ebay for around $100.. So how about $50?

I have a flywheel also. And a new clutch plate and throw out bearing. And a used 5 speed 4WD transmission.

Did you replace ALL 7 hoses?

Hmm, if I'm reading this correctly- There are some 3AT's with a slightly different ratio? Is there a way to know? I have a 1992 that turns about 4000 at 65MPH. I also have a 1986 [in my 1987 body] - it turns a few hundred lower, and seems a little less peppy compared to the 1992. My 1990 felt the same as the 1992. I also had a 1988, but don't remember how it was, as my wife drove it mostly.

Hi, I'm looking for a few suggestions for buying Subaru parts online. Mostly things like the Intake gaskets, reinforced o-rings for the oil passages to the overhead cams. Those "best if factory" little parts. I had found one years ago, but lost the link, and the one I tried never responded, so I'm guessing that it was either the wrong place, or they no longer bother. Dave

There are 2 wires in the plug on the coil of the air valve. Apply 12V to the 2 wires. You should hear a click. The air path through the 3 air ports should change. 1 is the "Common" port, the other 2 are the normally open and normally closed.

Oh, these are great to know! I got the whole top / head set gasket kit from Fel-Pro, so all will be new. The old cam tower cover gaskets I may have replaced once in the past. Off to see what the orings look like, and find that head resurfacing thread. I was looking at them last night, and thinking they really need it. I can see & feel a slight imprint of the steel part of the original head gasket.

I have solved the o-ring / memory mystery. Came across the old OEM head gasket. It has a bigger hole with a separate o-ring.

I'm ready to re install the heads on this EA82 engine. I have a set of Fel-Pro Permatourque head gaskets. Are there any tricks or little details to watch out for? Of course, I'll follow the sequence and 3 steps. I know not to use sealant on head gaskets. For some reason, I half remember an o-ring for the oil passage - but I could be thinking of an older model engine? The Fel-Pro gasket has a small metallic ring as part of the gasket for the oil passage. Looking at it and the block, there really isn't a good surface for one to seal against anyway, so I suspect my memory is wrong.

Like was already mentioned - replace ALL of the hoses that you do not know the age of. I've noticed that those smaller ones are often neglected, and they all age at the same rate. 2 radiator hoses, 2 heater hoses, the small one from the thermostat to engine block, small one at the rear of the throttle body, and a short 90 degree bend right above the water pump. That last one is hard to see, but it is there.. You do not want to run an EA82 with low coolant.

Looks like 3 short + 6 long then. I have to look around more. I don't have enough short bolts. Nuts.

Extra bolts from another engine got mixed in.. Thus the uncertainty on quantities.

It's been a while... Anyway, I need to finaly put an engine back together. Something like 10 years since I dissassembled it... I noticed there are 2 different lengths of head bolts. It looks like there should be 3 shorter ones in a line just under the valve springs. Is this correct? Back story: I took it apart back then to do a re-seal. It was leaking oil at a stupid rate, as is typical. I had that engine from when it had 15,000 miles on it. Drove it past 150,000 with synthertic oil and a bypass filter. Never changed oil, just added as needed. Checked a crank bearing & wrist pin, both in the best condition / original spec I've seen in the handful of engines I've rebuilt / dissassembled. And there it has sat, parts in boxes. Anyway, lots of other things kept me busy - like building a house - and I ended up with other spare engines, so I have not needed to re assemble it until now. Thus I don't remember which bolts were short / long / where they were...

I've been driving EA 82 models since 1988. My experience has been once overheated by low coolant, it is only a matter of time until you need a headgasket. Usually I've seen slow leak between cylinder &coolant system. Oil / combustion residue in coolant bottle. Coolant slowly dissapearing. Bubbles slow in recovery bottle. This is all for a mild overheat. Longer / hotter, worse things happen, like coolant in the crank case, and burning lots of oil.

I've never had to buy one. For GL / Loyales... I am driving a 1987 with original bearings. Under 90K miles, though. I ran my 1990 to 200K+ miles. A few others made it or are at 150K+. None needed wheel bearings. Occasionally, I load them up pretty heavily, too. I'm sure they can fail, I just haven't had it happen. I started running these models in 1988. Before that, I was running 1976 & 1978 wagons. Same thing. Maybe I'm lucky?

I did mark them with a chisel... Or I should say thought I did. When I went to put the bolt back in place, I discovered I couldn't find the mark. [i don't get that, but whatever] I also wasn't sure about how much play there would be, or if it would matter. So I used what I have laying around.

I had to replace the knuckle on my 2001 forester. [because the CVJ shaft is stuck in the hub, and I need to replace the boots.] Anyway, this is how I restored the camber setting when I reassembled it. http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/Falignment.html