DaveT

I'll have to check the FSM to get the exact range, but 0 to slightly toe in is what songs good.

Assuming that the alignment is in spec, I've had a shimmy that fades in and out. Slightly bent rims could do it. Slightly off balance on both front tires could do it. When I used to run the white wagon wheels, I had to go to a Subaru dealer for balancing. They were the only place that could get it right. If the shimmy amplitude goes down as speed drops, it has to be weight related. If it only drops in frequency, it is tire shape or a bubble of delaminated tread.

Oh, another little mod I do to make starter service easier. Remove the clamp that holds the cables to the steel tube that helps support the spare tire. Then strip off the tape and stuff that holds the + and - cables together. Been running them that way since around 1988 with no ill effects.

I haven't had an exhaust system with heat shields in a loooong time. Although, the 93 I just got from a guy in CA still has OEM. But I expect that O2 sensor will not come out easily. I'll probably put the all stainless exhaust I made on it when that sensor or the cat fails. It'll be easier.

17mm combination wrench for bottom nut. 14mm for the top one. Sometimes need a second one to hold the bolt.

For the AC - remove the alternator. Then remove the bolts that hold the cast iron bracket to the engine. The hoses are just long enough to allow you to flip the compressor back upside down. One 14mm behind compressor, 1 12mm under alternator, 2 14mm below the compressor. The left one just loosen, the right, remove.

Thank you! I have yet to disassemble the motor part of a Subaru starter. It may be the brushes hanging up on the comutator. Or something like that. I have disassembled the solenoid section many times to replace one of the copper contacts. That is an off car project.

I never had that part apart with one on the car..

For carved & SPFI EA82 I believe the cams are the same. Same bore & stroke also.

My 1987 GL

By the way- the check engine light does not know about the egr system function - only that the solenoid coil is open or shorted or good.

Around here they won't test if the light is on. Replace the solenoid, then see if the other goes away. No crank angle sensor in the modern sense. Think more like old points and disty. Except electronic points.

I got stainless exhaust pipe and flanges from here: http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/ The flanges for the engine, I cut from bar stock with a friend's plasma cutter. Pics of what I did: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/exhaust.html

I've been using 10w-40 in Ea82s since 1988.

Possible. I have had intermittent TOD also. My guess is that whichever cause is letting air in, or lowering the oil delivery is right on the edge of enough to keep them quiet, vs just enough to cause TOD. It also seems to me, that in the case of air bubbles, it may take a while for trapped air to get pushed out of the lifter.

It may take a good bit of driving before it finally stops. Like a couple hundred miles. I've never timed it. But it has not been as simple as reseal oil pump, start, and it's gone instantly. At least for me.

My 93 wagon [which I recently got running] has had a bit of that wandering left right feel. This thread reminded me of my past experience so I checked the toe in on my 93 today. It was actually toe out. 1-1/2 turns on a tie rod end to make it a hare toe in, and it handles a lot better.

If the toe - in / out is adjusted wrong, it will handle weirdly. I had one that got knocked out when I hit something - it was out enough to destroy tires in less than 100 miles. The tread would de laminate from the steel belts, making a bubble. I ruined a couple sets of good used tires before I realized why. My FSM has instructions on how to adjust it, and it worked. Handled better than ever after that.

A piece of plumbers strap makes a good shim for a better fit with the 1/2 drive.

Get a Toyota solenoid from a scrap yard. It's just the solenoid that is failed. I have Toyota ones from 1988 that still work.

It's just not very convenient when they break. There is no warning, the engine just dies. And you have to get a tow, or a push, or fix it where it is. If you do take them off, and goof up the installation, the worst thing that happens is it won't run. No damage is done.

What part numbers? Where do they put the ride height? I have my adjustable OEM ones all cranked to the high setting.

Rebuilt the engine from my 1987 from the headgaskets up. Installed it in my recently bought 1993 Loyale, which has now passed emissions, and is registered.

Oh, I didn't see it. It is in grey on white, hard to read. I had a 4WD wagon with all the same as yours. Until the frame broke from rust. I would have suggested the vacuum line or lines after the selector buttons.

IF I ever see someone talking about one of these systems who does not describe it using BS pseudoscience mumbo jumbo, and / or demonstrating a complete lack of understanding of basic chemistry, physics, or electricity, [or usually, all 3] I would be more interested in investing my time to experiment. Extraordinary claims demand extraordinary proof. Many of the people making these "cells" talk about frequencies that break the water down using less power than DC. Has any one of them ever run a comparison of 2 identical, one driven with DC, and another driven with pulses [or whatever] ? Side by side, power input meters, gas flow output meters. I've never seen one...